With Thanksgiving only a few days away we need to talk turkey. I mean, really...let's get to the truth about Thanksgiving turkey roasting. Gourmet Live has put on-line nine myth-busting tips for us to enable those assigned the important job of cooking the most important meal of the year. For the next several days I will highlight Kemp Minifie's report. So today I begin with the first 3. And they are:
1. Consider deconstructing your turkey. If presenting the traditional entire turkey on a platter is part of your holiday ritual--and the meal is unthinkable without it--then keep on doing it. But if moist breast meat and perfectly cooked dark meat is more important to you than that brief tabletop cameo of the whole bird, then roast your turkey in parts, the white meat separately from the dark meat. Buy just the parts you like. Divide the white meat and dark parts into their own pans and roast on different racks. This allows you to remove the breast meat when it's done and let the legs cook longer. The breast meat is moist at 165F, but the dark meat is better when cooked to a minimum of 170F.
2. Don't wash the turkey. This directive will probably shock you. And it holds true for chicken, too. This advice comes from the super-cautious folks at the USDA. And here's why: The moment you run water on your poultry, you start spewing a mist of unwanted pathogens all over the sink and nearby items. The easiest and most effective way to eliminate bacteria is to kill them in the heat of the oven. Then, after the bird is in the roasting pan, dry it inside and out with paper towels. And don't forget to wash every surface the turkey and its juices might have touched. Use hot soapy water, and it doesn't hurt to follow up with disinfectant.
3. Brining is strictly optional. Brining the turkey was all the rage a while ago, and it still has a devoted following for those who have the space and a container large enough to immerse the turkey completely. Another option is to inject the brine directly into the flesh. Or, you might consider dry brining, which involves rubbing the turkey with liberal amounts of kosher salt and letting the bird air-dry in the refrigerator uncovered on a rack or shallow pan for at least eight hours and up to two days. But if you want to enjoy the benefits of brining without any of the fuss, buy a kosher turkey. It's been salted ahead of time as a part of the kosher process.
More tomorrow...
Last night's meal was my first attempt at Moroccan cuisine. With all modesty I have to admit that it was a huge success. I'm ready to feed the next caravan out of Marrakesh! But it was not without it's problems in preparation. First I needed to allocate some lamb chops. And that wasn't easy. In those halcyon days of my youth there was at least one butcher shop in every town, even the small ones like North Wales. In fact, at our humble abode the butcher actually came to us. It was Herman Metz with his butcher shop on wheels. Once a week he would stop at the curb in front of our house and deliver the freshest cuts of meat on the planet. My mother would step into his truck with her written list and watch as the pork chops and steaks and roasts were cut to order.
Come to think of it, that wasn't the only food delivery on our street. Beside the milk and bread left between the doors in the pre-dawn hours, there was also fresh fruit and vegetables from Mickey Marchese and Frank Robison, and eggs fresh from the farm of Mr. Bechtel in Souderton. It seemed like the world came to our door in those days. My father's life insurance premium was also paid quarterly when the agent made his rounds and every other week Mr. Maag would stop by to collect for the home delivery of the newspaper. The sheets and towels were cleaned and pressed and delivered from the laundry in Lansdale. Even Dr. Anders came to the house to diagnosis my chicken pox. No wonder my mother never bothered to get a driver's license. She didn't need one.
But somehow all that changed in the intervening years. No longer could we enjoy home delivery of many of the necessities of life. We then had to go to each specialty store to supply our needs. Fortunately there were places like Frank Molettiere's small butcher shop in town, or the Tri-County Egg Producers Cooperative Association over in Center Point where a sweet young thing named Sandy answered the phone and waited on customers. There was also the tiny Bennett's Market just behind the Corner Hardware Store by the only traffic light in the borough where Bill and his son kept the shelves and cooler cases stocked.
But back to my lament concerning the lamb chops...Last week I did notice that the cavernous Whole Foods store in Plymouth Meeting did carry them, at an exorbitant price of $19.99/lb. So I sought a more attractive (and less costly) alternative. There was still an outdated Yellow Pages phone directory upstairs so I looked up "Butchers" and to my dismay, found none. So consulting the index discovered they were listed under "Meat-Retail" and read down the very short list. The first half dozen I tried to call met with a variety of defeats, from disconnected numbers, to automated answering machines, to "please leave a message" requests. Finally in desperation I called one more name on the list, over in Plymouth Meeting about a mile from the Whole Foods mega mart. Yes, they did have lamb chops! "I'll be right over!" I responded with relief in my voice. And at Carl Venezia's butcher shop on Germantown Pike I was able to purchase chops cut to order, just like in the days of yore, and at a reasonable price, too.
So I drove home pleased with my success, but also asking myself, "So this is progress?" Where has the sense of community gone? It seems we are becoming more and more isolated as we become even more crowded together. I fear we are losing our individual identity as we are more homogenized. These are some really deep thoughts that a couple of lamb chops have provoked.
The title of today's posting is the cover story from a recent Nutrition Action newsletter. It lists 10 important messages that don't seem to stick. There are several reasons why, according to author Bonnie Liebman. She says that "maybe that's because we haven't heard them enough or because they're controversial... Maybe it's because there's only so much you can think about when you're deciding what to have for lunch."
Here are the 10 things that many of us have heard before, yet they just don't seem to sink in:
1. Extra weight increases the risk of cancer. "...the ideal thing is not to gain (weight) in the first place." so says Marjorie McCullough, strategic director of nutritional epidemiology at the American Cancer Society. "But if you're already overweight, it's still worth trying to lose. Even if you repeatedly lose and regain the weight, your risk of dying of cancer, heart disease, or other illness is no higher than that of someone who started at the same weight."
2. Subtle cues can make you eat more (or less). Brian Wansink of Cornell University found that all sorts of below-the-radar cues influence how much we eat. For example, people tend to consume more from larger plates and bowls and when food is visible and within reach.
3. We're eating too many grains. Calories from grains (wheat, corn,oats, rice) has increased by 45% since 1970. That's because we are eating more bread, pasta, tortillas, crackers, pizza crust, pretzels and pastries, mostly all containing refined flour which creates an imbalance in our diets.
4. Animal protein can help, not hurt, bones. It is true that consuming animal protein tends to leach calcium from the bones. But with a higher protein intake there's also a higher absorption of calcium, thus strengthening bones. The results of a year long study in Framingham, MA documented that the group receiving high protein meals lost less bone from the hip, spine and wrist, reducing the risk of fractures.
5. Eating 3,500 fewer calories doesn't mean you'll lose a pound. The general rule of thumb is that there are 3,500 calories in a pound. So cutting out 500 calories a day from your diet should bring a 1 pound weight loss in a week. But, in fact, the body starts burning fewer calories as the weight comes off. As the body's metabolic rate drops it attempts to burn fewer calories. Weight loss will plateau as the body adjusts to being fed less with fewer calories.
6. We don't eat enough potassium. The recommended daily allowance of potassium is 4,700 milligrams. The average American gets roughly half that. It is vital for healthy blood pressure levels and for more elasticity of the heart muscle and blood vessels. And the best way to increase potassium intake is to increase the consumption of fruits and vegetables.
7. Don't expect vitamins to prevent cancer. A simple fact to keep in mind is this: when you see claims that a vitamin "maintains a healthy prostate" or "supports breast health," what it really means is there's no good evidence that the vitamin lowers the risk of prostate or breast cancer.
8. Omega-6 fats don't cause inflammation. It can be confusing as to just what omega fats we should be consuming. It has been stated that omega-6 is harmful while omega-3 is beneficial. It is more important to include the omega-3 fatty acids found in salmon than it is to eliminate omega-6 foods contained in mixed vegetable oils.
9. You need to cut calories as you get older. Our bodies change with age in ways that reduce caloric needs. Resting metabolism starts to drop appreciably during our 5th decade. Muscle mass is replaced by fat, which burns fewer calories.
(read *big sigh* here from Vinny)
10. Magnesium may lower your risk of diabetes. Eating more magnesium-rich foods like leafy greens, beans, whole grains, nuts and wheat bran helps to avoid type 2 diabetes, in concert with daily exercise, weight loss and limiting sweets. On average, our daily intake of this vital nutrient is woefully lacking.
Each Fall in the tiny village of Ramsbottom, England a good natured rivalry is perpetuated between Lancashire and Yorkshire. It is the World Black Pudding Throwing Championship. In 2011 I had the privilege of participating in the competition that acknowledges an ancient grudge dating back to the War of the Roses when the opposing armies ran out of ammunition and resorted to throwing food at each other.
On the second Sunday in September each year a plank (plinth if you are British) is set up 20 feet in the air from a scaffold and Yorkshire puddings are piled on it a dozen high. Then, for a mere pound, each participating member of the citizenry is given 3 black puddings and encouraged to knock as many of the rival's puddings down as they can.
A tally of the most knocked from the plank is chronicled on a blackboard on the wall of the Royal Oak Tavern on Bridge Street where the competition is held.
So what exactly is black pudding? Stop reading now if you are squeamish. It is a type of sausage made by cooking blood with a filler until it is thick enough to congeal when cooled. In the Lancashire region of England it primarily consists of pig's blood and oatmeal and is considered a delicacy, served sliced, fried or grilled as a part of a traditional full breakfast in the UK. And yes, I did try some. It was a free sample offered me at the event, a fund raiser for a local hospice organization. Let me say that it is certainly an acquired taste. But then again, so is scrapple.
Back when I was in high school, just after the Civil War, cross training sneakers had not yet been developed. We had separate footwear for each sport. In the Fall it was a Converse cross country sneaker, a elfish looking canvas shoe that we wore. In the Winter Chuck Taylor sneakers were the footwear of choice for basketball players. And in the Spring baseball team members all had cleats on their shoes. A special shoe for a specialized function. Then everything changed. Cross training athletic footwear came into being for athletes and wanna-be athletes alike. It was a one shoe fits all events phenomenon.
The same seems to hold true today in the world of what Alton Brown of the popular Food Network program Good Eats calls "mega marts," the large, often franchised, grocery stores throughout the country. Not only do they sell produce and packaged and canned goods, but also provide take home meals and even have buffets for eat in convenience for individuals and families on the run.
Recently during Hurricane Sandy I frequented 3 of these grocery store buffets, being semi-homeless and without the ability to cook a hot meal. While each did provide warmth, light and a place to recharge electronic devices, the quality of the meals offered varied greatly. The first night I dined at a local market that advertises their nightly buffet and purchased the "all you can eat" option on Senior Citizen Discount Day. My take on it? It was expensive, even with the 5% discount and the choice of food disappointingly limited. Buffets, by their nature serve up food that is usually cold and dry and that well describes the meal I reluctantly ate. The accompanying salad bar was also slim in its offerings and the desserts almost non-existent. Perhaps the only redeeming quality about the buffet at Henning's was the soup. It at least was warming and hearty. I could not say the same for the rest of their dinner menu.
The following evening on the recommendation of a friend, decided to try the buffet at a local grocery chain, Shop-Rite. I had heard that they had a good Oriental buffet and went there to a new store with high expectations. The dining area was bright and warm and even had a large flat screen TV hanging on the wall where I could catch up with the misery of others displaced by the storm. The food, however, did little to lift my spirits. It consisted of mostly fried chicken and pork served with a syrupy goo of vegetables. I'm not sure when the rice had been cooked but if there had been a "sell by" date on it, I know it would have been expired. Unlike the first night's meal this one was sold by the pound and was only a little less expensive.
The final night of my buffet caravan was spent at the cavernous Whole Foods store in Plymouth Meeting. Their buffet area is larger than some entire grocery stores. They provide a wide variety of options with about a dozen soups, vegan & salad stations, and meat, sides and veggies all kept at the appropriate temperature. And just off to the side a station to make to order sandwiches with the bread and rolls baked on site, along with lots of pastry desserts. There was so much available that I had to do an initial reconnaissance of the area before making my selection. The downside? The seating area is very institutional, reminiscent of a high school cafeteria. And the cost was again by the pound and was the most expensive of the three "cross training" market/restaurants.
In evaluating my experience I would say that cross training dining is just a step above a Wendy's, McDonald's or Burger King it and costs more, too. Just like those old sneakers that did one job and did it well, I think for my money next time I will look for a bonafide restaurant that doesn't sell groceries on the side.
This week my menu planner includes something new, for me at least. I've never broiled lamb chops and am looking forward to attempting a charmoula version of them. The recipe from Fine Cooking Magazine calls for them to be marinated in a traditional Moroccan combination of spices that includes two kinds of paprika. I was curious as to the origin of this ancient spice so I did some research.
Smoked paprika, one of the types mentioned in the recipe, is principally imported from Spain where it is better known as pimenton de la Vera. It's made from capsicum annuum peppers that are smoked over oak and then ground in a stone mill.
But paprika is also produced in other locations beside Spain. South America, California and Hungary also export several varieties of this reddish spice in various intensities from delicate to hot. Used in food preparation it imparts both color and flavor and is often sprinkled over colorless dishes to improve their appearance without infusing any additional flavor.
Chef Brian Lewis of the Elm Restaurant in New Canaan, CN says, "Smoked paprika has a wonderful balance of smoky, sweet and earthy flavors, and it goes well with everything from mushrooms to whole grains, poultry, fish and lamb. In the summer, I use it with just about everything I grill, and in winter on foods destined for the broiler."
Gee, that's just what I intend to do!
Editor's Note: Due to the massive hurricane that battered our area, power has been off for the past several days and thus Vinny has been unable to provide any postings on this website. I am happy to now resume my weekday reports, starting today.
Much if not all of the east coast of the United States nervously awaited what was being dubbed "The Storm of the Century" to come ashore. Indications of a major weather event had been in the news for nearly a week beforehand and with each passing hour the news was becoming even more dire. Local authorities were warning residents to prepare for severe conditions with heavy rain and high winds.
In our own community emergency organizations were getting themselves prepared by reviewing procedures and checking the readiness of their equipment. Crews were being scheduled to staff centers around the clock for the duration of "Frankenstorm." This included the members of the North Penn Volunteer Fire Company in North Wales, the little borough where I was raised and where I am still a member. Knowing that my days of riding the tailboard of a fire truck are long past (they don't even do that anymore) I decided to provide another valuable service. I offered to feed the crews who were standing by in the station to respond to any emergency that might arise. Under normal conditions the fire fighters and EMT personnel respond from home in an emergency, but with the storm of this magnitude it might not be possible to get to the firehouse, hence the round the clock staffing of those willing and able to stay there.
With the blessing and encouragement of Fire Chief Chris Park I put together a grocery list and also sought donations of food and supplies that could feed 20-30 people a day for at least 3 days. So by Sunday afternoon the shelves were well stocked with purchased food and gracious donations from Alice Bakery and Confectionary just a few doors down and I began to literally cook up a storm.
I must admit it was the first time I had ever made 10 gallons of chili at one time. So with lots of ground beef, onions, tomato sauce, kidney beans and garlic, and a very large pot along with some various spices that I found in the kitchen I donned my chef's cloak and got to work. It turned out that I was sharing the kitchen with a caterer who had brought in enough food to feed a christening party of 150 in the upstairs social hall. But with the threat of the storm looming in every one's minds many had rethought their decision to attend and only 50 showed up. Learning of our plan to stay in the firehouse 24/7 until the storm had passed we were also the recipients of some simmering meatballs and 2 pans of unbaked ziti and sausage in cheese sauce.
It has been said that an army travels on their stomach and the same holds true for an organization like the fire company. So the troops were well fed and ready at a moment's notice to put their experience and training to the test. For two days I cooked and baked and put smiles on the faces of those awaiting the storm's fury. While some might consider this a daunting task, for me it was pure joy. No one left our make shift dining area hungry. The menu included my now famous chili, meatball sandwiches, ziti with sausage, and some pretty tasty white bean and kale soup, along with my testosterone pumping Man Cookies mentioned in a previous posting.
Now 4 days post Hurricane Sandy the wrath of the storm is still very visible around town and some are still awaiting the return of power to their homes and businesses. But the meals served at the firehouse still brings a smile to the faces of those first responders and to the chef, too.
