Heading North

     I'm heading north to conduct more culinary research!  So while I'm enjoying the cuisine of Alaska I will be unable to post my daily musings.  Please look for Vinny's reports to resume on June 1.

Deli in your own home

     It's easy to make your own Deli-style pickles.  Here's a simple recipe provided by Fine Cooking magazine:

Half-Sour Dill Pickles

3/4 oz pickling salt (1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp), or Kosher salt (2 Tbs Diamond Crystal, 1 Tbs plus 2 tsp Morton), or unrefined sea salt

1 lb firm pickling cucumbers, such as Kirby (6 to 8)

4 sprigs fresh dill

3 large cloves garlic, halved

1/2 tsp cracked black peppercorns

Pinch crushed red pepper flakes (optional)

In a 2-cup measuring cup, dissolve the salt in 1 cup of hot tap water.  When dissolved, add 1 cup cold tap water.  Trim the small round scab from the blossom end of each cucumber.  Tightly pack the cucumbers vertically in a quart jar.  Fit the dill sprigs and garlic around the cucumbers.  Sprinkle the black pepper and crushed red pepper, if using, on top.

Add enough of the salt water to the jar to completely cover the contents, leaving about an inch of airspace at the top of the jar.  If you have any brine left, save it.  Cover the jar with cheesecloth or a kitchen towel secured with a rubber band, or partially screw on the lid.

Put the jar in a cool room (about 65F) away from direct sunlight, and let the pickles ferment for 4 days.  During this time, bubbles of carbon dioxide gas will become visible inside the jar.  Check the pickles daily to make sure they are submerged, and if necessary, top them off with the reserved brine.  If they begin to float, weigh them down with a small heavy object, like a stone wrapped in plastic or a small glass jar filled with water.  It's OK if the liquid clouds slightly.  If it becomes dark or extremely cloudy, mold or fungus is growing in the jar, and the pickles should be discarded.

After 4 days, taste a pickle.  It should be crunchy, lightly sour, and salty, with an aroma of garlic and dill.  If you prefer a more sour flavor, let the pickles ferment, up to 3 more days, tasting daily.  When you're happy with the flavor, refrigerate the pickle jar.  The pickles will remain half-sours for up to 2 weeks.  Within a few weeks, they will have progressed to fully fermented pickles and will keep for years in the refrigerator.

In a Pickle

    All across the nation there's a preservation movement afoot.  And it has to do with the time honored process of preserving food.  Before commercial refrigeration it was almost impossible to keep  food fresh for very long before it would spoil.  But almost since the beginning of time, humans have creatively preserved perishable food stuffs by a variety of methods:  smoking, curing, pickling and fermenting.  And once again these methods are being employed by individuals for personal consumption as well as distribution in the market place.

     Recently I reported on a Philadelphia based business, Food & Ferments, and just a couple of weeks ago I came across a similar retail store in Baltimore, Hex Ferments, in Belvedere Square.

     The pickling process isn't a difficult one.  According to David Joachim and Andrew Schloss, authors of The Science of Good Food, it "begins when vegetables are submerged in a salt brine--basically a mixture of salt and water."  They say that any fresh vegetable can be pickled, with the most common ones being cucumbers, peppers, and okra.  The brine's salinity level depends on what is being pickled and the anticipated end result.  For example, cabbage is fermented into sauerkraut at 1% to 2% salinity for about a month.  For cucumbers it is more like 5% to 6% salinity for half that time to produce a good sour pickle.  The popular Jewish deli pickles are brined at 3.5%.

     We can thank the beneficial bacteria lactobacillus for enabling the brining process to take place.  It is during pickling that the bacteria grows and at the same time suppresses the other more harmful bacteria that promote spoilage.  That is because the good guys are the first to metabolize the sugar in the vegetable, leaving none for the bad guys to find.  The lactic acid that forms actually preserves the vegetable and increases the amount of B vitamins and also contributes to the vegetable's aroma and tartness.

     And the good news is that you can do it all in your own kitchen.  It's easy to do, inexpensive, and healthy!

     

Bouquet to Table

     Recently I spoke of the culinary value of the prolific dandelion weed that grows in everyone's lawn this time of year.  But did you know that there are more than a few flowers that are edible? Flower blooms are actually quite versatile, and can be included in virtually every course on the table: in salads and dressings, in entrees and the marinade used to flavor them, in desserts and in the beverages that accompany them.  Flowers appeal to the senses with flavor, aroma and color and tantalize taste, smell and sight.

     
     Some flowers we consume without even considering it.  Such is the case with artichokes and capers which are really the buds of plants.  Others have a specific culinary use, like lavender for instance.  It is a common ingredient in baked goods, spice blends, and rubs.  Some blossoms like nasturtium and squash can be stuffed and eaten fresh from the stem, or lightly fried.

   The list is extensive!  Begonias, carnations, chrysanthemums and clover all lend a distinctive flavor.  And the list goes on to include marigolds, mint, pansies and roses.  Even the blossoms of garlic and chives can be utilized by the creative kitchen master.

     But a word of warning before you head out to your flower bed to spice up dinner.  Edible flowers are best if used the same day they are picked.  And never, ever consider using any flowers that may have been treated with pesticides or are found near roadways.  And always be sure to wash the flowers before eating. 

Drink Apples!

     My vocabulary continues to expand as I research the discipline of the culinary arts.  I did know what a bakery and a creamery produce. But recently I learned about the operations of a krautery and a meadery.  And just this past weekend at the Ambler Farmers' Market I was introduced to a new term in the name of a Berks County business, The Frecon Cidery.

     Located in picturesque Boyertown just beyond the Montgomery County border in southeastern Pennsylvania the Frecon family has been growing a variety of fruit for sale since 1944.  It was back then that Richard Frecon purchased the Boyertown Fruit Farms and with the help of his wife began to operate a roadside stand selling directly to the public.  Since that humble beginning and several generations later Frecon Farms is now a full service retail operation with a large farm market on the property.  The growing season begins in mid June with the cherry crop and proceeds through the summer with apricots, peaches, nectarines, plums, blueberries, red raspberries, pears, and pumpkins in the Fall.  But their mainstay continues to be the 16 varieties of apples that are used to make everything from hard cider to apple cider vinegar.

     Cider was once an integral part of early American life.  Not only was it consumed as a favored beverage, it was also a vital source of nutrition and hydration.  The lack of potable water in many regions of the country made lightly fermented cider one of the most critical sources of life giving liquid.  Thus orchards were a welcome part of practically every farm in the newly formed nation.

     The blending of various apples continues to be a culinary art form in the creation of a distinctive taste to cider.  There are 4 main categories of apples that are involved in the process:  Bittersharps, Sharps, Bittersweets, and Sweets.  Frecon Farms currently produces three varieties of hard cider, each with their own personality and taste profile.  And all gluten free. They also have interesting names.  Hogshead, Crabby Granny and Early Man range from 6% to 10% ABV.

     Their apple cider vinegar, made from apples, honey and garlic has a number of medicinal benefits.  It can treat heartburn and provide stomach relief, lower cholesterol, act as a sleep aid and detoxify the body as well as contribute to skin and bone health.

     So drink some apples!  Here's to your health!

Lawn to Table

   All the rage now in the restaurant business is the "farm to table" concept.  The buzz word in culinary arts circles is "locally sourced."  So that you aren't left out of this growing movement, here is a recipe that you can try that literally brings the outdoors in to your table.  And you need go no farther than your own back yard.

Pasta with Dandelion Greens

Kosher salt                                                          1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil                             Freshly ground black pepper

6 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced                     12 oz gemelli or penne pasta

1/4 cup pine nuts                                               2 oz finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

12 oz dandelion greens, trimmed                           (2 cups using a rasp grater)

     and cut into 2" lengths (about 6 cups)

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil.  Meanwhile, cook the oil and garlic in a heavy-duty 12" skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally with a slotted spoon, until the garlic is golden, 3 to 5 minutes.  Transfer the garlic to paper towels to drain.

Add the pine nuts to the skillet and cook, stirring frequently, until golden, about 1 minute.  Transfer to the paper towels with the garlic.

Add the greens to the skillet and cook, stirring, until wilted, 1 to 2 minutes.  Stir in the vinegar and season to taste with salt and pepper.  Keep warm over low heat.

Boil the pasta according to package directions.  Reserve 1 cup of the pasta cooking water and drain.  Add the pasta to the skillet and toss with the greens.  Add the garlic, pine nuts, and half of the cheese, and toss to combine, adding some of the pasta cooking water to moisten, if necessary.  Serve garnished with some of the remaining cheese, and pass the rest at the table.

Recipe courtesy of Shelley Wiseman and appearing in the June/July issue of Fine Cooking magazine.

Lion's Tooth

     About now my lawn is a carpet of gold.  Dandelions are in full bloom.  I've come to embrace the view rather than get upset over the prolific weed that graces my property every Spring.

 

     Taraxacum officianale as it's know to botanists originated in Europe. The common name, dandelion, is from the French dent-de-lion, literally lion's tooth, referring to the jagged shape of the leaves.  In Europe the leaves are used in salads and the roots are brewed to make a tea and a medicinal diuretic.  And those golden flowers become wine and jam.

     As the weed found it way to the New World so did the culinary uses for it.  Today you can find dandelion leaves for sale at farmers' markets and in certain specialty stores.  But you can just as easily go right out your back door and pick them yourselves.  But first make sure that your property has not been visited by pets or has not been treated for weeds or insects.

     Fine Cooking magazine recommends to look for smaller leaves with firm stems and no yellow or brown spots, wilted area or holes.  They can be stored in an open plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.  They also recommend trimming the tough stems up to where the leaves start, and rinsing thoroughly just prior to use.

     "Dandelion greens can be quite bitter," so says Layla Schlack, "especially raw."  Cooking dandelion greens can reduce the bitterness.  They can be sauteed and tossed with pasta or potatoes, or added to frittatas or quiches.  They also are a welcome addition to soups and stews.  To soften dandelion greens bitter flavor consider pairing them with sweet balsamic vinegar or honey.

The Baltimore Local

     Last week I made an amazing find in the Belvedere Square section of Baltimore.  It was a diner with a national menu created from locally sourced ingredients.  Where else could you find West Coast Hangtown Fry, New Orleans Oyster Po Boy and Beignets, Southern Grits, and Pennsylvania Dutch Shoo Fly Pie and Scrappledelphia sandwich all in one place?  And to make it even more amazing, everything used to make these items is proudly purchased from local farmers and growers.  They even list their neighboring Chesapeake sources right on the menu.

     The Shoo Fly Diner is just such a place.  Everything is fresh and local.  And they make everything from scratch, too.  Everything.  Right down to the condiments: the ketchup, mustard, and hot sauce.  And the menu?  It changes every week according to what's in season.  

     And in the basement is an extensive canning operation.  That way they can preserve produce at the peak of freshness and enjoy it throughout the year.  The Woodbury Kitchen, also in Baltimore, handcrafts most of the pickled and preserved items which are available for commercial sale.

     It is an amazing operation, a bold experiment, a culinary challenge.  I was impressed as I sat at the counter and peered into the kitchen watching a half dozen chefs work to create mouthwatering masterpieces from the raw ingredients before them.  

 



     My Hangtown Fry was a mountain of fluffy scrambled eggs laced with lardons of bacon and 7 plump fried oysters accompanied by whole wheat toast.  There was so much in the cast iron frying pan that I could not finish it all.

 

     I can't wait to make a return trip to enjoy another meal at this local diner with a national flair!

Over the hill?

     Chestnut Hill has long been one of my favorite spots to visit and to walk around.  Going up and down Germantown Avenue in this upscale neighborhood of Philadelphia is a great way to  feel the buzz of retail activity and to get some exercise.  Only a mere 20 minutes from my door it is a quick trip for a special spice, hard to find hardware, or wedge of imported cheese.  And it's an ideal place for lunch, too.

     But recently it seems that Chestnut Hill is falling on hard times.  Sure, there are some of the familiar places that have been their for decades, perhaps the Chestnut Hill Hotel being a prime example.  And then there Killian's Hardware, a fixture (no pun intended) since 1913.  McNally's Pub, originator of the Schmitter Sandwich isn't far behind, established in 1921.  There is also the staid and stately Jacob F. Ruth Funeral Home, too.



     A few new comers have established themselves along "The Avenue."  Weaver's Way Co-op sells organic (and very expensive!) produce and canned goods and makes sandwiches along side the butcher counter in the rear of the store.  Iron Hill brewery provides another option for meals and a brew.  And side by side there are Kitchen Kapers and Penzey's Spices for the domestics in the crowd.



     But sadly are gone such favorites as Talbot's, Omaha Steaks, Metropolitan Bakery and a significant portion of the Farmers' Market.  Just last week I noticed 3 stores with signs in the window offering lease or sale options.  And another iconic shop, the Chestnut Hill Bootery was sadly announcing that they, too, were going out of business.





     One new office there is doing a brisk business, however.  Berkshire-Hathaway Real Estate has plenty to do to fill up all the empty store fronts.

It Wonders Me

     

     Last Friday I began my day with breakfast at the Amish diner at the Reading Terminal Market.  I ordered my usual morning meal: scrapple, home fries, scrambled eggs and 1 slice of whole wheat toast.  The portions were generous and the service prompt and  cordial as you might expect.  But to my surprise the tab was about twice what I normally pay back in the 'burbs and triple what it costs me out at the breakfast stand at Ephrata's Green Dragon Farmers' Market on a Friday.

      So leaving with a mild sense of sticker shock, I went through the RTM to examine other prices.  I came away with the feeling that bargains there are few and far between.  At a produce stand a pint of cherry tomatoes was a rather expensive $2.99 and bananas were an astronomical 69 cents a pound, a far cry from the 35 cents a pound I normally pay at the Green Dragon.  There were no bargains from the fish mongers either.  Salmon was around $15/lb and the farm raised tilapia was over $5.  Likewise the shrimp and shellfish were also too dear for my wallet.  And the question lingering in my mind was how long they have been sitting on a bed of ice waiting to be sold.  Poultry was also pretty steep, too.  It was difficult to find the ingredients for a reasonable home cooked meal.

     But the final insult was at the "Pennsylvania Store."  A jar of Kauffman's apple butter that I have purchased at the Shady Maple Market for $3.95 was a whopping $9.95!  So it wonders me, as my Pennsylvania German brethren would say, why things are so expensive. Could it be the transportation cost, or the rental fees for the stalls there?  Or is it just another tourist trap seeking to validate the vintage line from P. T. Barnum, that "There's a sucker born every minute"?