A Family Heirloom

     Just like that end table that was Aunt Jessie's some tomato varieties are passed down from one generation to another.  I'm referring to heirloom tomatoes, something that has recently become in vogue.  Now to be honest, definitions vary and categories have been developed in an attempt to more clearly designate exactly what an heirloom really is.  But generally an heirloom is a specific cultivar that is genetically unique, bred for certain qualities like eating or cooking.  They come in a variety of colors, shapes, flavors and sizes and have interesting names, such as Green Zebra, Amish Paste, Aunt Ruby's German Green, and Big Rainbow.

     Our world has been overtaken by hybrids, all purpose tomatoes, the kind we see on store shelves.  Hybrids are more uniform in color and shape and have tougher skins so they can withstand the rigors of shipping.  But heirlooms have a better taste.  Unfortunately they also have a shorter shelf life and are less disease resistant.

     Here is a recipe that you can try with your next purchase of some local heirlooms:

HEIRLOOM TOMATO PIE

1 cup all purpose flour                                         1 large onion, thinly sliced

3/4 cup yellow cornmeal                                     2 1/4 lb heirloom tomatoes

3/4 tsp fine salt                                                     kosher salt

1 stick butter into into 1/2" cubes                       3/4 cup shredded Mozzarella cheese

3/4 cup + 3 Tbsp shredded Manchego              1/4 cup mayonnaise

2 Tbsp EVOO                                                      3 Tbsp breadcrumbs

freshly ground pepper                                        3 Tbsp each chopped chives & parsley

                                         1 tsp chopped thyme

     To make the crust, pulse the flour, cornmeal and fine salt in a food processor to combine.  Add the butter and 3 Tbsp manchego; pulse until the mixture looks like coarse meal.  Drizzle in 4 Tbsp ice water and pulse until the dough comes together; add 1 more Tbsp ice water if necessary.  Turn out onto a sheet of plastic wrap and pat into a disk.  Wrap and refrigerate until firm,  about 45 minutes.
     Roll the dough into a 13" round.  Transfer the dough into a 9 1/2" deep pie plate.  Fold the overhang under itself and crimp the edges. Pierce the bottom of the crust all over with a fork.  Refrigerate until firm, about 20 minutes.  Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350F.
     Line the crust with foil, then fill with dried beans.  Bake until the edges are golden, about 20 minutes.  Remove the foil and beans and continue baking until golden all over, 10-15 minutes more.  Transfer to a rack to cool.
     To make the filling, heat 1 tsp EVOO in a large skillet over medium heat.  Add the onion and cook, stirring, until golden, about 15 minutes.  Let cool.  Meanwhile, thinly slice the tomatoes; toss with 1 tsp kosher salt in a colander.  Let drain, gently tossing occasionally, about 30 minutes.
     Increase oven temperature to 375F, combining the remaining manchego, mozzarella, mayo, breadcrumbs, 2 Tbsp each chives and parsley, thyme, 1/4 tsp each Kosher salt and pepper, and the sauteed onion in a bowl.  Spread onto the crust. Arrange the tomatoes on top.  Drizzle with the remaining 1 Tbsp EVOO and season with pepper.  Bake until the tomatoes are browned about 50 minutes.  Top with the remaining chives and parsley.

serves 6

Food Network Magazine, July/August 2011, p. 141