All Hallows Eve

     The tradition of pumpkin carving dates back into antiquity when our pre-historic ancestors carved into a variety of vegetables, namely beets, gourds, turnips and potatoes.  But the association of Jack o'-lanterns on All Hallows' Eve is widely considered to be of Irish in origin.  Turnips, mangelwurzel, or beets were often carved with grotesque faces, representing spirits or goblins.  These were used either as lanterns to guide those on the final day of October, or set on windowsills to keep harmful spirits away.

Modern carving of a Cornish Jack-o'-Lantern made from a turnip.

     
     The story of Jack of the Lantern seems to revolve around an Irish character known as Stingy Jack.  He tricked the Devil into not claiming his soul when he died.  But being such an unsavory individual he was unfit for Heaven.  The result was that he was left to roam the earth with only a burning lump of coal to guide him in the darkness.  Jack placed the burning coal into a gigantic carved turnip and has been roaming the terrestrial sphere ever since.  The citizens of Ireland and Scotland then also began to carve their own scary faces into vegetables to frighten away Stingy Jack and other wandering malevolent spirits.  Immigrants brought the Halloween tradition to America where the native pumpkin made a perfect canvas onto which were carved Jack o'-lantern faces.

     Just so you know, the world's largest jack o'-lantern, according to the Guinness Book of World Records was carved by Scott Cully in 2005 from a 1,469 pound pumpkin grown in Northern Cambria, PA by Larry Checken.

Friday I will be conducting extensive culinary research on aquatic life along the Rappahannock River in Virginia.  Thus there will be no VinnyPost that day.  Check out a full report of my travels beginning next Monday.

Vinny

Japanese Pumpkin

     As I was recently reviewing a recipe and came across an unfamiliar ingredient, kabocha.  So I did some research and discovered that it is a variety of winter squash, often referred to as Japanese pumpkin.  Kabocha squash have a strong yet sweet flavor and a moist, fluffy texture.  Some liken their taste to a combination of pumpkin and sweet potato with chestnut overtones.

     Introduced to Japan by Portuguese sailors in 1541, they were brought there from Cambodia and given the Portuguese name Cambodia abobora, which the Japanese shortened to kabocha.  They have a knobby looking skin and are shaped like a squat pumpkin with a dull green finish and light striations.  The interior is an intense yellow/orange color.  Like other squash kabocha are used in many side dishes and soups.  They can be baked, steamed, pureed, chunked, mashed or braised and are rich in beta carotene and contain large amounts of iron, vitamin C and potassium.  Kabocha are grown in climates with a long growing season, world wide in countries like Japan, S. Korea, Thailand, Mexico, and New Zealand and statewide in California, Florida and sections of Colorado.

     They are available to harvest right now.  So celebrate Halloween with a Japanese pumpkin! 

As American as...

     It seems almost un-American to stop someone from baking an apple pie, so says the editorial staff at Food Network Magazine. But they reported that's exactly what happened when Atlantic City resident Sally Ball tried to enter her mom's recipe in the American Pie Council's National Pie Championship this year.

 

     Sally couldn't compete because an old New Jersey law considers cooking competitions to be illegal gambling (the entry fee is equal to placing a bet).  Jersey lawmakers heard about Sally's plight and the General Assembly voted to change the law in May.  Now it's up to the state Senate to vote and approve the new wording.  If all goes well the new legislation could be in place by the end of the year, just in time for the New Jersey bakers to enter holiday competitions.

The frost is on the sprout



     We had quite a heavy frost this morning.  That should not be surprising since it is late October.  As I looked out across my back field I couldn't help but think about how that frost was sweetening up the Brussels sprout harvest.  The little hardy, slow growing, long-season vegetables are now in season.

      The sprouts, first cultivated in Ancient Rome, still are very popular in Brussels, Belgium, hence their name.  And currently the Netherlands produce 82,000 metric tons of the small vegetable annually.  They are a part of the mustard family of crusiferae, those plants with a 4 part flower that forms in the shape of a cross.  As a part of the gemmifera group they are included with cabbages, collard greens, broccoli, kale, kohlrabi and cauliflower.

     There are some significant health benefits from eating the little cabbages.  They contain substantial amounts of vitamins A & C, folic acid and fiber.  They also have a chemical, sulforaphane, that is thought to have anti-cancer properties, specifically to protect against colon cancer.  Brussels sprouts also have cholesterol lowering benefits if consumed on a daily basis.  As a minimum to receive those health benefits they, or others in that group, a one and a half cup portion should be eaten 2-3 times a week.  But caution should be exercised for those on blood thinners to avoid the problem experienced by a man in the UK when he was hospitalized for an overdose.

     Brussels sprouts were introduced into our country in the 18th Century when French immigrants brought them to their new home in Louisiana.  California is the highest producer followed by Washington State's Skagit Valley and Long Island, NY.

     Here is my favorite way to serve the sprouts, pairing them with another fall harvest specialty:

Braised Brussels Sprouts

 

4 strips bacon, diced                                     2 Tbsp whole grain mustard

2 lbs Brussels sprouts, quartered               1 Fuji apples, cored and diced

1/2 cup thinly sliced onion                          4 Tbsp butter, diced

1/4 cup apple cider                                        2 Tbsp cider vinegar

                                      salt & freshly ground pepper

 

     Cook bacon in a large sauté pan over medium heat until crisp, 7-10 minutes.  Transfer bacon to a paper towel lined plate, then increase the heat to high.  Add Brussels sprouts and onion to drippings and cook until sprouts begin to brown, about 5 minutes; season with salt.

 

     Deglaze the pan with apple cider, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom.  Add mustard, cover, reduce heat to medium low and cook sprouts until nearly fork tender, 6 minutes.  Add diced apple, cover and cook until tender, 3 minutes.

 

     Stir in butter, vinegar, and bacon then season with salt & pepper.

 

 

recipe adapted from Cuisine at home magazine, Issue #92, April 2012, p. 43

Oh Boy, Savoy!

     Cabbage is the main ingredient for some of our favorite foods like coleslaw and sauerkraut.  But Savoy cabbage is different.  It's crinkly with veined leaves, looking like cabbage's elderly cousin, so says the Nutrition Action Newsletter.

     Savoy has a milder, sweeter taste and has no sulfury smell when cooked.  It's also less dense than green cabbage, so it's easier to cut, and its thinner leaves cook more quickly.  Its leaves are tender enough to eat raw in salads.  The good news is that right now it is in season.

      Just half a cup of cooked shredded leaves has 21% of a day's vitamin C, 13% of a day's vitamin A and 8% of a day's folate and all with only 20 calories.

     Not sure how to prepare it?  Here's a suggestion.  Stir-fry some sliced savoy in canola with garlic, ginger and scallions, then drizzle with toasted sesame oil and soy sauce.   

     Welcome to the cabbage patch, kids!

Trail Remix

    

     According to the September issue of Food Network Magazine the National Park Service has made some significant changes in their food choices.  They conceded that it didn't seem right to finish a hike along the Grand Canyon with a big plate of fries.  So this summer the NPS began overhauling menus and adding healthful options at more than 250 restaurants and snack bars across the country.

     So now at the Grand Canyon Village Deli all the fried foods are gone and have been replaced by strawberry and spinach salads, chicken wraps and pizzas with whole-wheat dough.  Some restaurants in Yosemite National Park are even serving kids' meals that include a salad or fresh fruit instead of the ever popular (and unhealthy) fries.

     Makes you want to go out and take a hike, doesn't it?

Hot Peaches

     Yesterday I mentioned the health benefits of fresh and canned peaches.  But have you ever tried to cook a peach?  They are excellent grilled and I've also enjoyed them roasted.  Roasted you say?  Well, yes!  Using my cast iron skillet (see VinnyPost "A Pan for All Seasons" March 27, 2012) I have followed this recipe from Fine Cooking magazine:

SUGAR ROASTED PEACHES

 Look for ripe but semi-firm peaches-if they’re too soft, they’ll lose their shape when you pit them.  Serve the peaches simply with a dollop of plain Greek yogurt or a scoop of ice cream.

 

2 slices thick cut bacon                         Kosher salt and pepper

4 ripe peaches, halved & pitted           3 large sprigs of savory,

2 tsp raw sugar                                        thyme or rosemary

 

          Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 450F.  Cook the bacon in a 12” cast iron skillet over medium heat, turning occasionally, until crisp.  Remove bacon and drain on a plate lined with paper towels.  Pour the bacon fat from the skillet into a small heatproof bowl, leaving a slick of fat in the skillet; you’ll need 4 tsp reserved fat.  (If you don’t have enough, make up the difference with EVOO.)  Raise the heat under the skillet to medium high.

          Sprinkle the cut sides of the peaches evenly with the sugar and a tiny pinch each of salt and pepper.  Arrange the peaches in the skillet cut side down and tuck the herbs around them.  Tear the bacon slices into quarters and tuck the pieces around the peaches.  Drizzle 2 tsp of the reserved bacon fat evenly over the peaches and let them cook undisturbed until the cut sides begin to brown, about 5 minutes.

          Sprinkle the uncut sides of the peaches with a tiny pinch of salt, then transfer the skillet to the oven and roast until the peaches are just tender, about 10 minutes.

          Flip the peaches, drizzle with the remaining reserved bacon fat, and continue to roast until they’re tender but not falling apart, about 5 minutes more.  Enjoy the bacon as a cook’s treat.  Let the peaches cool slightly before serving.

 

Fine Cooking, August/September 2012, p. 78

Peachy Keen

     This year's peach season is just about over.  Fresh peaches are no longer available in the stores or farm market stands.  In the Northern Hemisphere they are harvested from late May to the end of August and each tree's production is only a week long.

     Despite the botanical name, Prunus persica, which seems to credit the region of Persia for its origin, peaches are native to north-west China and have been growing there for 3,000 years.  China is still the world's largest producer of the fruit.  They did not arrive in the region of the middle east until 300BC, before being transplanted to Europe and then on to the Americas by Spanish explorers in the 16th Century.  They were called "Persian Apples" by the Romans.

      It has been documented that Thomas Jefferson had a peach orchard at his estate, Monticello, but commercial production in the United States did not get underway until later in the 19th Century in the east coast states of Maryland, Delaware, Georgia and Virginia.  We all know that Georgia is nicknamed "The Peach State" but it is California that leads the nation in peach production with South Carolina second ahead of Georgia. 

     Something else you may not know is that peaches and nectarines are actually the same species of fruit.  Due to a genetic mutation nectarines have a smooth skin while peaches are characteristically fuzzy.  Fresh peaches are very healthy, full of Vitamins A, B & C and loaded with carbohydrates, dietary fiber, iron and potassium.  But according to a study conducted by Oregon State University, canned peaches were found to have significantly higher levels of vitamin C and antioxidants than fresh ones.

     So we don't need to wait until next year to enjoy the benefits of peaches!

Food for Thought

     There is a takeout restaurant in Pittsburgh's Schenley Plaza that is creating quite a stir.  The Conflict Kitchen only serves food from nations that the United States is at odds with.  They broadly define conflict as war, boycotts, embargoes, military clashes and diplomatic quarrels.

     You can order a bolani, a savory turnover stuffed with spinach from Afghanistan, or a kubideh, a seasoned ground beef wrapped in flatbread from Iran.  They also have theme meals, currently specializing in food from Cuba, serving up a tasty lechon asado, marinated slow-roasted pork with fried yucca chips washed down with a mango agua fresco.  The next scheduled theme will focus on Korea.

     "Operating seven days a week in the middle of the city, Conflict Kitchen uses the social relations of food and economic exchange to engage the general public in discussions about countries, cultures, and people that they might know little about outside of the polarizing rhetoric of governmental politics and the narrow lens of media headlines," so says their website.

     Staffers are trained to both prepare food and discuss political issues with customers.  Still, the restaurant says it doesn't want to force-feed diners ideology; about half just go for the food.

Scottish Penicillin

     Chicken soup is genuine comfort food.  On a cold winter's day it is soothing as it takes the edge off the harsh weather.  It's tastes great when you are feeling worn and weary.  And when you are sick it tastes even better.  No wonder it has been used for centuries to cure almost any ailment known to mankind.

     There is a variation to this basic soup that has its origin in Scotland.  The recipe for Cock-a-Leekie soup was first written down in 1598.  In addition to chicken the Scots added some unlikely ingredients: leeks, barley, and prunes.  There are also recipes that include parsnips and celery and a variety of spices.

     Leeks are a member of the Allium family, just like onions, garlic, chives, shallots, and ramps.  They differ from onions in that they have no bulb at their root end and are more delicate and sweeter in flavor.  They are now in season and are harvested from Fall to early Spring.  It was the Romans who first introduced them to the United Kingdom and they flourished there in the colder climate.

     Both the ancient Greeks and Romans prized leeks and believed they imparted a beneficial effect on the throat.  While that may or may not be the case, they are known to provide cardiovascular support and combat diabetes, obesity, rheumatoid arthritis and colorectal cancer.  They are also instrumental in tissue growth and repair.  Nicknamed the "queen of the stockpot" some nutritionists advocate 1 serving a day, every day, of an Allium family member.

     Cock-a-Leekie soup is traditionally served on the Scottish national holiday, St. Andrew's Day, which also happens to be the birthday of Robert Burns, Scotland's Bard, January 25.

     So put on your kilt and click on this recipe and let the cold north wind howl outside!

Big Soup

     A bowl of vegetable soup is a culinary masterpiece.  Full of healthy, fresh veggies it is both warming and nutritious. But add just a few items like beans and pasta and it is a quick trip to Italy for an amazing meal of minestrone.  There are 3 Italian words for soup: zuppa, which is used in the sense of tomato soup, minestra, which applies to a more substantial soup, like a chowder, and minestrone, which refers to a very hearty or large soup.

     Minestrone is one of the mainstays of Italian cuisine and has been documented as far back as the Roman Empire.  It is said that the Roman army marched on minestrone and pasta fagioli, making good use of local and seasonal ingredients.  It was originally a very humble dish, intended for everyday consumption, as it was filling and also inexpensive.  It would have likely been a main course in the cucina povera, literally "poor kitchens" across Italy.

     There is no set recipe for minestrone, however, since it is usually made of whatever vegetables are in season.  So due to its unique origins, minestrone is not particularly similar across Italy.  It varies depending on traditional cooking traditions, available ingredients and the season of the year.  It can range from a thick dense texture with boiled down vegetables to a more brothy soup with large quantities of diced and lightly sauteed vegetables.  It can also include meat, like chicken or ground beef.

     Vegetables can be chosen to be intentionally made into minestrone or they can be culled from the leftovers of previous contori, or other side dishes.  As the soup crossed the Atlantic other ingredients from the Americas found their way into the pot, namely potatoes and tomatoes and squash.

     So be creative and prepare a hearty pot of Big Soup for your family and friends!



Conventional vs Convectional

     Editor's note:  As I entered Wednesday's post I realized that in my haste I had failed to post the draft I had written for Tuesday.  Here it is:

Vinny

     Our stove isn't new.  We've had it for several years now.  But I'm still adjusting to the convectional feature of the oven, something new for me.  So I was eager to read in the question and answer section of the latest Cuisine at home magazine about the proper use of convection ovens.  Here is what they had to say:

     "The point of a convection oven is to steadily circulate hot air throughout the oven with a fan, so it cooks food quickly and evenly.  Since the moving air cooks more efficiently than radiant heat, the oven doesn't need to be as hot or the cooking time as long.

     Once you get the hang of adjusting the temp and time (usually dropping about 25 degrees and up to 30% of the time), you can use convection mode for all sorts of food.

     It ensures your roast or Thanksgiving turkey will brown evenly.  Plus you can cook several dishes on multiple racks without rotating them.  Along the same lines, multiple sheets of cookies will bake uniformly.  And baked goods in general will turn out light and flaky since the butter starts steaming more promptly.  Is convection mode every not a good choice?  We just discourage using it for delicate desserts and souffles due to the motion of the air."

     There you have it!

International Travel

     Two of my favorite things are Fall and soups.  And right now I can savor both.  As the days grow shorter and the temps begin to diminish, I am once again in the kitchen creating some soups that warm both body and soul.  I have several cookbooks that detail how to make some old time favorites like tomato, chicken noodle, and vegetable.  But this time around I am thinking of taking those American standards and sending them on a trip beyond our borders.  For the remainder of this week join me in some international travel.

     Today I'm going south of the border to give a Mexican flair to tomato soup.  By adding some chipotle a basic classic gains a Latin flair.  But what exactly is chipotle, beside a leading restaurant chain in the United States?

     The word comes from the Nahuati dialect term chipoctli and refers to a smoked chili pepper.  Chipotles are nothing more than smoke dried jalapeno peppers.  The majority of them are produced in the northern Mexico state of Chihuahua.  They are the morita variety.  Others are also grown in other sections of the country and vary in heat intensity.  Chipotles impart a relatively mild but earthy spiciness to food and have a distinctive smoky flavor.  They are usually used in meals that are slow cooked and are used primarily in soups, sauces and meat rubs.  They can also be used to kick up salsas.  Chipotles are versatile and can be found as a powder, in pods, canned in adobo sauce, concentrated as a base and also sold as a wet meat marinade.

     Here is a recipe you can try to warm things up on a chilly Fall day:

Tomato-Chipotle Soup

 

Melt

4 Tbsp unsalted butter                       2 Tbsp minced chipotles in adobo sauce

2 cups chopped onions                       1 Tbsp adobo sauce from canned chipotles

2 Tbsp minced fresh garlic                2 Tbsp all-purpose flour

 

Add

3 cups low sodium chicken broth    2 cans diced tomatoes in juice

 

Stir In

1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro         sour cream

salt & black pepper to taste                guacamole

tortilla chips                                          cilantro leaves

 

     Melt butter in a large pot over medium heat.  Add onions and cook 3 minutes.  Stir in garlic, chipotles and adobo sauce; cook 1-2 minutes.  Stir in flour and cook 1 minute.

 

     Add broth and tomatoes; bring to a boil.  Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer soup 30 minutes.  Remove soup from heat and puree in a food processor or blender.  (for a chunky soup, only process half of the mixture-Vinny)

 

     Stir in chopped cilantro and season soup with salt and pepper.  Garnish each serving with tortilla chips, sour cream or guacamole, and cilantro.

 

Makes 5 servings (10 cups)

 

 

Recipe courtesy of Cuisine at home, Issue 101, October 2013.

Apple Epilogue

     Here are some fun facts about apples that you can add to your compendium of knowledge:

          Apples (like pears and quinces) are members of the rose family.

          By volume apples are 25% air.

          Apples are the most widely distributed fruit on earth.

          Flavors of apples vary among varieties, from different parts of the same tree, and even within a single fruit.

          There are several thousand apple varieties.  But they can be divided into 4 groups:
                      Cider apples
                      Dessert/eating apples
                      Cooking apples
                      Dual Purpose apples

          Apples contain starch that converts to sugar after being harvested.

          Apples are native to Eurasia.

Apples, Apples Everywhere

     Apples are good to eat any time of the day.  They are tasty at breakfast in pancakes, good for lunch in soup, and wonderful in an evening casserole.  They make a great snack and are also a sweet dessert treat.  Here's a recipe I'm eager to try with some of the apples I brought back with me from last weekend's Apple Harvest Festival:

Baked Apple with Crisp Topping

 

2 apples (recommended Fuji or McIntosh)          3 Tbsp butter, cold and diced

1 tsp lemon juice                                                        3 Tbsp brown sugar

1/4 cup strawberry jam, jelly or preserves           1/2 cup oats, uncooked

2 Tbsp all-purpose flour                                           1/4 tsp ground cinnamon

                                                                                       pinch of salt

 

 

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

 

Cut each apple in half along its equator.  Using a melon baller, cut out each side of the core, creating a rounded hole.  Rub exposed apple flesh with lemon juice.  Place 1 Tbsp of jam into each hole.  For the topping:  in a small bowl mix together flour, butter, brown sugar, oats, cinnamon and salt.  Press this mixture on the top of each apple, covering jam.  Place in a baking dish filled with about 1/4" water.  Bake until top is golden brown and apple is tender, about 35 to 40 minutes.

 

recipe courtesy of Sunny Anderson

The Food Network

An Apple a Day...

    
     Apples are one of the world's most widely cultivated tree fruit.  Originating in China they've been around for two thousand years and are doing well in the United States

primarily due to the diligence of Jonathan Chapman, better known as Johnny Appleseed.
     But how much truth is there to the old adage that "An apple a day keeps the doctor away"?  Are they really that healthy?  Let's take a look at this pomaceous fruit and see how they rate in promoting good health.

     To begin with apples are low in calories, they contain no saturated fats or cholesterol.  So that's a good thing.  In addition they are rich in dietary fiber and antioxidants.  That's good, too.  They contain Vitamin C & beta-carotene and are a good source of the B-complex vitamins like riboflavin, thiamin, and pyridoxine (B-6).  That can't hurt, either.  And the also contain essential minerals like potassium, phosphorus and calcium.  So far, all good.

     Apples are very nutritious and with only 95 calories each, can help with weight loss while providing 4 grams of soluble fiber.  It's that soluble fiber that blunts blood sugar swings and decreases the chance of diabetes and lowers high cholesterol.  The antioxidants in the fiber protects the brain against Parkinson's disease, too.  Studies have shown that they can also lower the risk of coronary heart disease and stroke.  But perhaps most importantly, apples have been shown to curb certain cancers, among them some of the most insidious; pancreatic, liver, colon, breast, lung and prostate.

     Some additional benefits of apple consumption includes being an exercise extender.  Eaten before a work out an apple's antioxidant, quercetin, makes more oxygen available to the lungs, thus permitting an individual to exercise longer.  And finally, biting and chewing on an apple stimulates the production of saliva reducing tooth decay by lowering levels of bacteria in the mouth.  They also are known to whiten teeth.

     For more information on the benefits of apples, click on the Mother Nature Network.

Have you had your apple today?

Cider House

     In 1932 Maurice Henry Zeigler was employed at the Ford Plant collecting a paycheck to provide for his wife and 6 children.  To supplement his income he recalled an old family cider press and decided to replicate it in the garage of his row home on Chestnut Street in Lansdale.  Soon he was making and delivering cider on Saturdays, selling it door to door, eliciting the assistance of his children.  Their route included Lansdale and as far away as Norristown.

     By the early 1940s the cider business was so good that he quit his day job and went full time into the cider business.  In addition to his "regular" customers M. H. expanded into wholesale, selling to supermarkets and roadside stands in Philadelphia and New Jersey.

     By the time the third generation of Zeiglers came into the business the distribution routes had increased substantially.  Not only was Zeigler's cider being sold in the Baltimore/Washington area but all the way south to Florida and west to Texas, north into New England and out to the Midwest. 

 

     Now from their 60,000 sq. ft. facility on Broad Street in Lansdale Zeigler's pasteurized cider is available in 32 states as is their lemonade and flavored teas.

Apple Overload

    

     With all the beautiful, ripe apples available this weekend it was difficult, if not impossible, to return home without some.  Attempting to use a modicum of restraint I only loaded a mere ten pound bag of the luscious orbs into the back of the car. 

     But now the challenge is to find creative and delicious ways to use them.  With the decided change of weather as we cool down from the heat and humidity of Summer into the cool, crisp climes of Fall I began to use the first batch of apples to make soup.  Soup you say?  Yes, in my collection of recipes is one that requires 5 cooking apples.  Here it is:

Apple Curry Soup

 

2 Tbsp Butter                                     5 cooking apples, peeled, cored and chopped

1 onion, chopped                               3 cups low sodium chicken broth

1 Tbsp curry powder                         3/4 cup half and half

1 Tbsp all-purpose flour                  1/8 tsp ground pepper

 

     Melt butter in a 5 quart pot over medium-high heat.  Add onion; cook for 3 to 4 minutes or until tender.  Stir in curry powder and flour, cook for 1 minute.  Stir in apples and broth, bring to a boil.  Reduce heat to low.  Cook, uncovered, for 15 to 20 minutes or until apples are very tender.  Transfer half the mixture to a food processor and pulse 4 or 5 times, processing until smooth.  Return to pot.  Stir in half and half and pepper.  Warm, stirring occasionally, over medium-low heat until just heated through.  Top with croutons and serve immediately.

 

     It's a great way to celebrate the apple harvest and to welcome Fall!

The Fruitbelt

     Adams County, Pennsylvania is known as "The Fruitbelt" with over 20,000 acres of orchards bearing a variety of fruits.  During the first two weekends each October they host a National Apple Harvest Festival at the South Mountain Fairgrounds to celebrate.  This year is their 49th seasonal event.  I attended it on Saturday and was amazed.

     There's a lot more to apples than just applesauce.  Think about it.  Of course there is apple juice and apple cider.  But there's also apple butter, and apple jelly.  And there's also apple pancakes, apple sausage, apple fritters, apple pie...the list goes on and on.

     But let's get back to Adams County. In the literature it is billed as " one of the most intense fruit regions in the country."  I'm not sure what that really means.  But putting it into a national perspective, Pennsylvania is 4th in apple production, behind Washington, New York and Michigan.  And Adams County is #1 in Pennsylvania harvesting over 5 million bushels of apples annually.  One bushel equals 42 pounds of apples.  You do the math.  That's a lot of apple picking.

     And speaking of picking apples, right in Biglerville in Adams County is the Knouse Corporation, a co-op that processes apples and other fruits from nearby orchards.  They are the county's largest employer.  Never heard of them?  Well, they sell their products under more familiar shelf brands such as Musselman's, Lucky Leaf, and Lincoln.

    While you're in Biglerville, stop in at the National Apple Museum, then go to the apple harvest festival.



Spuds that aren't duds

    

     For crispier frenched fries, Fine Cooking magazine recommends using high starch potatoes.  They are lower in moisture and brown and crisp better.  Then fry them twice; first at 325F to evaporate moisture thus preventing a soggy interior, then after they've drained and cooled, fry them again, this time at 375 to crisp and brown their surfaces.  To create a crisp crust dust them in corn starch after the first frying.

     For better browning on roasted potatoes, chill the entire potato for a day or two before cutting and cooking them.  That will convert some of the starch to sugar and enable better browning.  To retain a potato's shape in salads or long cooking stews, parcook in 130-140F water for 20-30 minutes.  This activates the enzyme in the spud's cell wall that prevents the cells from weakening, keeping the potato intact during long cooking.  Then continue to cook as necessary in the recipe you're using dictates.

     To prevent gluey mashed potatoes, don't use an electric mixer or food processor.  Too much beating causes the spuds to release excess starch and they become like glue paste.  Instead mash quickly with a potato ricer, masher, or food mill.

     For more nutrients and flavor, don't peel your potatoes.  After scrubbing them use them with the skin on.  It contains about half of the potato's fiber and helps retain Vitamin C and other nutrients in the flesh during cooking.  N.B. consider purchasing organic potatoes if you're intending to use the skins.  Conventionally grown potatoes can have high levels of pesticide residues.

Spuds, Part 3

     Not all mashed potatoes are created equal.  High starch potatoes, such as russets, have densely packed starch cells that swell and separate from one another when cooked, resulting in a dry, fluffy texture.  They also make creamy mashed potatoes and frenched fries with a flaky interior.

 

     On the other hand, low starch spuds, like the round red potato or white skinned ones, have moister, loosely packed starch cells that don't separate from each other.  So these kinds of potatoes retain their shape better, even when boiled.  They are the ones that work well in salads and stews.  New potatoes, sometimes referred to as creamers, are also low in starch because they are harvested young, before all their sugars have converted into starch.  And then there are the medium starch spuds, like the Yukon Golds and the Yellow Finns.  They are known as all purpose potatoes due to their medium starch content.  That makes them suitable for any cooking technique.

     So if you're not sure about the starch content of a potato, there is a quick way to check.  Cut the potato in half.  If it sticks to the knife or leaves a creamy white residue on the blade, it's high starch.  If it doesn't, it's no doubt a low starch spud.

     Tomorrow:  How to make spuds that aren't duds.

Spuds, Part 2

     After you've purchased your potatoes, where do you keep them at home?  Zoachim & Schloss recommend storing potatoes in a cool (45F to 50F), dark, well ventilated place, like an unheated basement, closet, or root cellar (remember them?).  Under those conditions, potatoes can last for months and actually improve in flavor, as enzymes slowly break down lipids in the potato cell membranes, making them taste better.

     Cool conditions are important because potatoes can begin to sprout within a week if stored at room temperature.  But when stored below 40F in a refrigerator their metabolism changes, causing them to convert some of their starch into sugar.  A little extra sugar improves browning and crispness on roasted and fried potatoes, but too much can ruin their flavor.  The starch to sugar conversion can be reversed by taking the potatoes out of the refrigerator and storing them in a cool, dark cabinet for a week or so.

     Keep potatoes out of the light, too.  When exposed to light potatoes manufacture increasing amounts of chlorophyll as well as two bitter tasting alkaloid compounds, solanine and chaconine.  In high concentrations these can not only make potatoes taste bitter but also can cause headaches and upset stomachs.  When a potato looks green it is due to an increase in chlorophyll, a sure sign that those two alkaloids are at unhealthy high levels--as much as 20 times above the safe amount of 5 to 6 milligrams considered harmless in a 4 oz. spud.

     Never store potatoes in an airtight container, such as a tightly closed bin or a sealed plastic bag.  Without ample ventilation potatoes develop damp spots that are prone to bacteria and mold infestation.

Spuds, Part I

     Potatoes are among the world's most important food crops, along with corn, wheat, and rice.  And Americans consume more of the humble spud than they do any other vegetable.  That's because potatoes are easy to grow and versatile in the kitchen, so says David Joachim and Andrew Schloss in "The Science of Cooking Potatoes."

     So in the next few posts I will take a closer look at potatoes and perhaps we will all come away with a greater respect for them.

     Most people believe that the potato is a root, since it is often classified as a root vegetable, like turnips, beets and carrots.  But potatoes are actually a stem.  The leaves of the potato plant manufacture starch, which is transferred through the plant to its underground stems, known as stolons, forming swollen sections called tubers.  That it actually what a potato is.

     Each potato has several buds, or eyes, that can grow new plants.  When your potatoes sprout during storage, they're using available light and stored starch--the same starch that becomes deliciously creamy when cooked--to grow a new plant.

     Rich in nutrients, the average 8 ounce potato provides about 35 grams of carbohydrates, 4 grams of fiber, 3 grams of protein, 11 milligrams of vitamin C, and 350 milligrams of potassium.  That's a lot to love about the potato!