The Other Asparagus

     "Europeans celebrate Spring with a quasi-religious fervor inspired by white asparagus--cut at the crack of dawn each day before any tips have a chance to emerge from the soil and take colour," so says Elizabeth Schneider, author of The Essential Reference: Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini.  According to the statistics coming out of the 9th International Asparagus Symposium, asparagus is grown in 61 countries worldwide and of that number 55% of the crop is the white variety.  Simply described by Brian Bensom, president of the California Asparagus Seed & Transplant organization, white asparagus is "harvested from plants whose spears have not seen the light of day."  The plants grow without the benefit of sunlight so that the green chlorophyll pigments don't have the opportunity to form.

     And while Europe reveres the white spears, they are virtually unknown in the United States.  And gourmands who go to great lengths to import European white asparagus from places like Germany, France and Holland, are woeful regarding the American attempt to grow the harbinger of Spring which tastes very little like the green counterpart.  Chef Hans Rockenwagner serves white asparagus in his restaurants in Santa Monica and Beverly Hills when he can get them.  "They are incredibly expensive and worth every penny, provided they are the real thing," he commented recently.

     In addition to the pre-dawn harvest, the stalks must be quickly cooled down to 34F and kept there until cooked.  And therein lies the major problem for U.S. markets, and the difference between the European and American versions.  White asparagus is only available in peak growing season, from March to May, and then only purchased from stores where it can be kept chilled.  There should be no evidence of shrinking or wrinkling and no fibrous ends protruding at the base.  The spears should be pearly in appearance, shiny and free of ridges.  Most importantly, they must be firm and juicy.  the tips should be totally closed and all white except for perhaps a touch of pink or lilac at the tip.  And bigger is definitely better. The bigger spears are sweeter, juicier and smoother textured.

     Tomorrow, yet another kind of asparagus to consider.