An Easter Tradition

     Tradition provides stability and balance to our lives.  But often the significance or purpose of such actions are lost in antiquity.  Such is the case for the tradition of serving ham for Easter dinner.  Ever wonder why we do that?  It dates back to colonial days when hogs were typically slaughtered in the Fall to provide meat for the family.  The portion of the hog not consumed immediately was then smoked and cured to preserve it for later use.
     The process is a lengthy one and the meat would take several months to hang and cure.  So the first hams were ready in the Spring, right around Easter time.  The ham, then,  was a natural choice for a festive Easter meal.
     This Easter I changed the tradition slightly.  Since I am home alone instead of cooking the ham part of the pig I chose the ribs and grilled them to perfection out on the porch.  While it didn't take as long as curing a whole ham, it did involved some overnight marinating in the refrigerator and then some roasting in the oven before they were slathered with my special basting sauce.  So around 4 pm I sat down at the cafe table on the porch and enjoyed my take on an Easter tradition.  No bones about it!

Good Friday Food

     Today is Good Friday and around the world Christians are recalling the day originally termed "Black Friday" when Jesus was executed by crucifixion.  It is a day of reflection and penitence as Lent comes to a close.  But there is one food that is associated with the day we now call "Good."  Do you know what it is?
     In many countries around the world buns are traditionally eaten on Good Friday, with a cross formed on their face with icing.  They are made with dough and include currants or raisins, according to Wikipedia, the cross standing as a reminder of the crucifixion.  At one time in England the ruling monarchy attempted to ban the sale of them, believing that they were a dangerous hold over from the Catholic Church, having been baked from the dough left over from the creation of communion wafers.  But hot cross buns were so popular among the citizenry that Elizabeth I decided to permit bakeries to sell them, but only at Easter and Christmas.
     Folklore includes many superstitions surrounding hot cross buns, among them the belief that buns baked and served on Good Friday will not spoil or become moldy for the rest of the year.  Another belief is that the buns have a special medicinal value.  A portion of one given to someone who is ill will have a curative effect.  Sharing a hot cross bun with someone is supposed to ensure friendship for the coming year, particularly if this verse is recited, "Half for you and half for me, Between us two shall goodwill be."  When taken on a sea voyage, hot cross buns are said to protect the voyager from shipwreck.  And if hung in the kitchen, they are said to protect against fire and also ensure that all breads will turn out perfectly.
     In the UK there are some variations on the traditional recipe which call for the inclusion of toffee, orange and cranberry, and also apple and cinnamon.  In Australia a chocolate version of the bun has become popular and there are also coffee flavored buns sold there and in some instances chocolate chips are substituted in place of the more traditional currants.
    

New Kid on the Block

     The Heebner farm in Worcester, PA had been in the family for over 10 generations, beginning just twenty years after the Schwenkfelders arrived in Philadelphia in 1734.  When there were no more family members to maintain the proud farming tradition it was sold to Drew & Melissa Smith.  Drew had the dream of operating an organic farm with fruits and vegetables sold to the public from their own farm stand.  His dream was realized at the newly named Willow Creek Farm, but not without an overwhelming amount of energy and man power.  Now his dream continues to be carried on by a non-profit group, Greener Partners.
     Greener Partners operates the farm in Worcester and another in Elwyn, Delaware County with the goal of "making local food accessible by offering multiple ways of experiencing fresh local food..." as they state in their brochure.  The Longview Center for Agriculture is a combination of agriculture and education on Stump Hall Road and provides opportunities for the non-farming public to participate in the joy of tasting home grown produce fresh from the field.  This 90 acre Certified Organic Farm is actually getting back to the roots of farming the way it originally was when the first Heebner cultivated the soil.
     At the recent Philly Farm and Food Fest I met Jennifer Brodsky, the Chief Operating Officer at Longview and discovered that they were continuing Drew Smith's dream on an even larger scale.  So on Wednesday I decided to take a look at what was happening down on the farm.  As I drove in the driveway to the retail store I pulled into the gravel parking lot and admired the flats of pansies for sale and saw in the distance the grape orchard coming to life past a small plot of rhubarb:

       As I turned around I noted the large blackboard hanging by the door.  It chronicled the educational opportunities available to young and old alike.  A major effort at the farm is to educate the public concerning good stewardship of the land.  And rightly so, since in reality we are all renters, not owners of the God's green earth.

     The Longview Center is unique in that it sells not only it's own fruit and produce but also the products of 90 other local farmers and artisanal businesses in their retail store.  I was amazed as I looked around the market and saw quite a variety of goods from locations within 50 miles of the farm.  And some early Spring produce was also ready to be taken home as well:

         As I was admiring the kale and leeks Jennifer arrived at the market and greeted me.  She explained how their non-profit model differs from a family owned farm, but that they still incur the same challenges with the rising cost of both material and transportation.  Profit margins are slimmer than ever.  It's a daunting challenge just to break even.  She invited me to take a walk out to some of the newest projects to see for myself the work that is underway.

     There was excitement and enthusiasm in Jennifer's voice as she told me that their goal as a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) had been reached.  In their first year of operation they had 120 individuals/families purchase farm shares.  It is a program whereby nearby residents receive weekly units of produce throughout the growing season for a predetermined price.  Longview offers both a full share suitable for a family of 4 and also a half share better suited for couples.  One added benefit from the Longview CSA is that share partners can come to the market and selectively pick their weekly unit share, unlike some other programs that merely offers partners a predetermined weekly provision.  Longview also offers share partners preferential admittance to the PYO (pick your own) fruits and produce as they become available through out the season.  Another added feature is the option to provide labor in exchange for the market share.

     We soon arrived at a field of blueberry bushes and I observed some work going on there.  Last year, Jennifer told me, the mid to late blossoming blueberries were decimated by the birds.  As soon as the blueberries were ready to be picked they were consumed by flocks of birds.  So with a generous gift this year the bushes and berries will be protected by an acre's worth of netting.  Work was already under way to set the poles in place to support the protective barrier and thus preserve the potential crop.  Turning around I saw another field in bloom.  This time it was a planting of Asian pear trees with white blossoms as far as the eye could see:

     As we turned back to walk toward the market Jennifer informed me that in just one year the Longview Center was about to be the recipient of the Governor's Award for Environmental Excellence in Farm Revitalization.  She will be present to receive that award on April 18th in Harrisburg.  So the new kid on the block is doing very well, thank you.  And it is my hope that the neighbors will notice and welcome Greener Partners into the community.

Triple F

     On Sunday I took the train into the city to attend the first ever Philly Farm and Food Fest taking place in the Pennsylvania Convention Center.  The event opened its doors at 11 am but I decided to arrive an hour earlier so I could take in an authentic regional breakfast of scrapple (see my post from February 1 "Everything but the Oink") and home fries at the Hometown Diner located in the Reading Terminal Market.  The diner was busy and there was a line waiting for seating so I found a single spot at the counter and placed my order.  Service was friendly but the food still arrived cold, a big disappointment.  So with that behind me I ventured over to the main event.

     I had paid the $15 entrance fee on line and was one of the first in the door to take in over 100 exhibits from local farmers, food producers and artisanal food businesses.  This was a prime event for locavores like myself.  It was part demonstration, part education and part celebration as bee keepers, coffee roasters, apple growers, cattle raisers, sauerkraut makers, bread bakers and milk producers were all in one place to proudly show off their passion for the land.

     There were samples galore of a range of locally produced foods ranging from raw honey, cheese, yogurt, greens, fruits, baked goods and ice cream.  There was even a local popsicle company present with a very clever advertising sign:

     I was very impressed by the number of CSA's now in production, particularly within the city limits.  A CSA stands for Community Supported Agriculture.  Its origins date back to the 60's in Japan and Europe as an experiment linking independent farmers and their non-farming neighbors.  The concept took hold in the US in 1986 on two New England farms, in Massachusetts and New Hampshire.  It's a symbiotic relationship where both the farmer and the community benefit.  Farmers sell shares of their crops to people who buy in during the growing season.  The resident benefits from fresh, local produce and crops throughout the year from April through October and the farmer has a more dependable and predictable cash flow.  Some CSA farms are even willing to exchange a predetermined set of work hours in exchange for the weekly bounty from the field.  And I was especially pleased to discover that we have a CSA in our own community, The Longview Center for Agriculture, is right in Worcester (although in their literature they claim to be in Collegeville).  More on their story tomorrow.

     I certainly got more than my money's worth at the Farm and Food Fest.  Besides having a veritable smorgasbord of local food samples, I received quite an education as to what is going on locally to provide wholesome and nutritious produce and products to sustain and enrich our lives.  And I also got a free T shirt:

Past Their Prime?

     I like to purchase my green beans fresh and I hand pick each one from the market bin to make sure it's in its prime.  I store them in the 'frig in a paper, not plastic, bag so they can breathe, avoiding condensation and decomposition.  But if I don't use them quickly enough they still begin to shrivel.  After a week they are definitely past their prime.
     But I have found a recipe, provided by Cook's Illustrated, that takes those aged veggies and turns them into full-flavored beans.  I now gladly pass that recipe along to you:

Roasted Maple-Mustard Green Beans

1 Tbsp Vermont maple syrup             1 lb green beans, stem ends snapped off

1 Tbsp Dijon mustard                          2 medium carrots, peeled, cut into matchsticks

1 Tbsp grainy mustard                         1 Tbsp vegetable oil

pinch cayenne pepper                          Table salt

                                    1 Tbsp minced fresh parsley leaves

     Adjust oven rack to middle position; heat oven to 450F.  Combine maple syrup, mustards, and cayenne in small bowl.

     Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil; arrange beans and carrots on baking sheet.  Drizzle with oil; using hands, toss to coat evenly.  Sprinkle with 1/2 tsp salt, toss to coat, and distribute in even layer.  Roast 10 minutes.

     Remove baking sheet from oven.  Using tongs, coat beans and carrots evenly with maple-mustard mixture; redistribute in even layer.  Continue roasting until carrots and beans are dark golden brown in spots and beans are starting to shrivel, 10 to 12 minutes.

     Adjust seasoning with salt and toss well to combine.  Transfer to a serving dish, sprinkle with parsley and serve.

Serves 4

Cook's Illustrated, November 1, 2005

A Philly Original

     You no doubt noticed on my most recent weekly menu planner that I scheduled Philly cheesesteaks for Saturday night's meal.  Those of you who are local know exactly what I am going to prepare.  Others around the world might be mystified as to what exactly a cheesesteak sandwich is.
     Permit me to provide you with a bit of historical insight.  The cheesesteak first made an appearance in South Philadelphia in 1930 when hot dog vendor Pat Oliveri experimented with putting beef on the grill instead of his customary "tube steaks."  A taxicab driver passing by caught the aroma and called out for a steak sandwich.  The next day word got out about the mouth watering meal and cabbies from all around the city sought out Oliveri to get their very own sandwich.  It wasn't long before Oliveri opened up a stand at 9th and Passyunk, which he called Pat's King of Steaks.  Not long after that humble beginning he added cheese to the recipe.  Currently the steak shop is open 24/7, just like his friendly rival across the street, Geno's, founded by the late Joey Vento.
     A cheesesteak is a long, crusty roll, preferably from Amoroso's Bakery, filled with thinly sliced sauteed ribeye beef and slathered with melted cheese.  The kind of cheese is open for debate.  Some insist on Cheez Whiz, while others prefer American or Provolone.  Some also include fried onions, sauteed mushrooms and hot or sweet peppers.
     Cheesesteaks can be found in various forms all around the world.  But only a native of Philadelphia can distinguish the genuine article.  If it's served on anything other than an Amoroso roll it's just not a real Philly cheesesteak.  That is why the Amoroso Baking Company currently ships their baked goods to over 40 states.  The company began in 1904 when Vincenzo Amoroso and his two sons, Salvatore and Joseph, began baking and delivering their rolls to neighbors in their South Philadelphia community.  Today their bakery is located in West Philly and they employ over 300 people.  Their products are sold locally in such notable local venues as Wawa and Genuardi's.
     Saturday afternoon I stopped by Talluto's deli and picked up 2 rolls to use for our "taste of Philly" evening meal.  But I must confess that I used some shredded cheddar to top our sandwiches.  It was all I had in the refrigerator.

    

Palm Sunday

     Today is Palm Sunday and Christians around the world are celebrating the day when Jesus was welcomed into the city of Jerusalem as they would greet a returning victorious warrior.  The crowds cut palm branches and covered his route with them in his honor, only days before they turned on him and cried out for his execution.
     The palm tree is not native to our country, except for a few tropical locations, like Florida and Hawaii.  It is the state tree of The Sunshine State, but it's not something that the rest of the country is familiar with.  So that's why most of us are unsure of exactly what hearts of palm really is, or how to use it in meal preparation.

Heart of Palms (Photo: Margarita Persico)

     It is the edible inner portion of the stem of the cabbage palm tree.  In the wild, harvesting the stem would kill the entire tree.  So certain varieties of the palm tree have been domesticated and have the ability to grow multiple stems which can then be cut off without damaging the tree itself.  The shoots are, as one source states, "slender, ivory-colored, delicately flavored and expensive."  The major exporters of hearts of palm are Hawaii, Costa Rica, Brazil and Ecuador.  Florida has a ban on it's harvesting.

     Hearts of Palm can be sold fresh or canned and is used primarily in salads, but can also be deep fried.