Eat Your Fill

     The latest edition of the Nutrition Action Health Letter arrived in the mail this past week.  The cover story was entitled "Don't Be Dense" and outlined the research of Barbara Rolls, PhD.  Dr. Rolls is the Professor of Nutrition at Penn State and has developed a new kind of diet, one that does not emphasize deprivation but rather focuses on satiety.  Her latest findings are in print with her book, "The Ultimate Volumetrics Diet."  She bases her theory on the fact that people feel full due to the amount of food they eat, not on the amount of calories they consume.  We all eat about the same volume on a daily basis regardless of the energy density of the food.  So the trick is to eat foods with a lower energy density that also contain fewer calories.
     Here is one example as outlined in the article:

A small piece of fried chicken, a few fries, and about a cup of cola have 500 calories.   So do a bowl of mixed melons, chicken and seasonal tomatoes, rice pilaf, baby arugula salad, and two cups of unsweetened tea.

So which meal is likely to leave you feeling less hungry?  That's a no brainer.  So the trick to feeling full after a meal is to eat more, but to eat foods that are lower in energy density, i.e. lower in calories.  Dr. Rolls states that we benefit from eating foods with high water content, like veggies and fruits.  They fill you up without adding on lots of calories.  Avoiding high energy density foods like those containing butter, oils, eggs and sugar will permit us to actually eat more and still lose weight with the added bonus of not feeling hungry in between meals.

     So I guess mom knew what she was talking about when she encouraged us to eat our vegetables!

Homarus americanus

     Enjoying the lobster pie I ordered at The City Tavern last Saturday brought back happy memories of summer vacations along the coast of Maine.  We would stay in Southwest Harbor and walk to a nearby lobster pound to pick out dinner.  At that time a live lobster right out of the trap would fetch $3.50/lb.  We would take 2 back and dunk them in a pot of boiling water and have a feast for less than ten bucks!
     But lobsters weren't always considered a delicacy.   In colonial America they were considered a food only fit for the poor and some towns went so far as to enact laws forbidding the serving of lobsters to servants more than twice a week.  They were so plentiful that they were often used as fertilizer.
     Lobsters share their crustacean designation with shrimp, crabs, crayfish and barnacles.  They are invertibrates, that is, without a backbone and have a hard exoskeleton which they shed as they grow.  They are also benthic, or bottom dwelling and live their lives on the ocean floor and reach adulthood in 5-8 years but can live as long at 50 to 100 years if they stay out of the waterman's trap!  The lobsters caught off the New England coast are only one of over one hundred species world wide and can be blue, red, yellow, orange or white, although most are the dull greenish color that we see in the fishmonger's tank.  The largest lobster ever caught was trapped off the coast of Nova Scotia and weighed in at 44 lbs.  It takes approximately 6-7 years to reach one pound, the minimum legal weight for commercial harvesting.
     Not all lobsters have claws and "spiny" lobsters are caught mainly for their firm tail meat which freezes better for transport.  If you look carefully you will notice that there is a difference between the two claws.  One is sharp for cutting and the other is bony for crushing.  And lobsters can be either left or right handed.  To avoid capture or when in danger a lobster can lose a claw or leg or anntanae and in time those parts will regenerate.
     And beside all that, they taste good!

Kitchen Closed

     The kitchen is closed today.  That provides me with the opportunity to sample the menu of someone else.  But where to go?  So many opportunities makes it a difficult decision for me to make.  The rest of the week has already been decided and I'm planning meals from different countries this time around.  Here's what's on my Weekly Menu Planner:

Sunday-USA 

Tenderloins

Stuffed Baked Potato

Grilled Asparagus

Monday

Kitchen Closed

Tuesday-Sweden

Gravlax Salmon

Roasted Potatoes

Sweet & Savory Kale

Wednesday-Italy

Italian Wedding Soup

Grilled Ham & Cheese

Fresh Fruit

Thursday-Poland

Smoked Pork Chops

Pierogies & Onions

Peas & Peppers



Continental Cuisine

    Today's post is not about enjoying a meal in a small European bistro as you might imagine, but refers to the food prepared for those attending the First Continental Congress when it convened in Philadelphia in 1774.  They met at The City Tavern on Second Street.  It was not a year old when some of the most influential men in the colonies gathered there to form a united opinion in response to the "intolerable acts" of the British.
     Last night I was there for a completely different reason.  I was not there to protest but to enjoy an authentic 18th Century meal.  It is indeed a foodie destination to experience the ambiance and food of a different place in time.  And as you might expect, it is not cheap.  But with a BOGO coupon (you can get one at the Visitors' Center at the Independence Mall) it was affordable for the two of us.  The menu is impressive as you will note on the link I have provided which welcomes you to the tavern.  So I went all out and ordered the lobster pie.  It was a generous portion of bits of lobster, shrimp and mushrooms swimming in a cream sherry sauce, covered by a flaky pastry blanket.  I savored every morsel and was glad to have kept my spoon to slurp up every last pool of the velvety sauce that my bread could not catch.  Oh, and the bread was authentic, too.  Three different kinds were served, including two slices of Anadama Bread, the same kind of cornmeal and molasses loaf I had just baked at home.
     Our hostess and waitstaff were all in costume and were courteous and conversational, not hurried but at the same time mindful of our 7:30 curtain call at the Kimmel.  It's no wonder that John Adams, when he arrived in 1774 called the place, "the most genteel tavern in America." 

A Stroll Down Memory Lane

     A few weeks ago I decided to take a walk down Main Street in Lansdale.  As a kid it was a big thrill to go there on a Friday night and window shop and look wistfully at the variety of merchandise available.  There were furniture, shoe, clothing, grocery and dry good stores in addition to restaurants, banks and even a movie theatre!  And there was a F. W. Woolworth department store with it's own soda fountain.  Lansdale's Main Street was in it's hey day back in the 50's.
     But sadly as I walked down one side of the street from Broad Street all the way up to Valley Forge Road and then back on the other side, few of those placed remained.  Many had been replaced by nameless, faceless store fronts.  Gone was the majestic Lansdale Theatre.  Others were boarded up.  It was a nostalgic stroll as I recalled in my mind's eye the places I had visited as a young lad.
     Then just this past Thursday I took advantage of an exceptionally mild day in February and with a friend drove down to Cape May for the day.  It is a town that time forgot.  Somehow it has retained the charm of a time gone by with it's genteel Victorian residences and guest houses.  There's even a small mall lined on either side with one of a kind shops and eateries.  We were pleased to find that many of them were open, even in the off season, and there was a respectable number of people enjoying the sunshine as we were.  Of course we spent some time looking through our favorite shop "Love the Cook" and chatted it up with the clerk.  And I also sampled some of the home made fudge that was being offered in a shop across the mall.  You could see it being made right in the front window.  They also had the iconic salt water taffy on sale, too.

     Then what to my wondering eyes should appear but an authentic five and dime store, just like the F. W. Woolworth's I recalled back on Main Street in Lansdale!  It was just like the good old days with penny candy (except it was no longer sold for a penny) and all the shelves were lined with goods that I remembered from half a century ago.  But the best part was in the back of the store.  They even had a soda fountain with counter service.  It almost brought a tear to my eye as I recalled ordering up a banana split at a similar counter as a kid.  The good memories came flooding back to a happy time and place.  It's a shame that today's generation missed out on such a simple pleasure like sitting and having a milk shake or a cherry coke at the neighborhood soda fountain.

The Proof is in the Pudding

     Today's musing is not about pudding, as you might expect by the title.  It has rather to do with the maxim espoused from the original phrase, "The proof of the pudding is in the eating."  Another culinary attempt to express this same thought would be from the New Testament, "By their fruits you shall know them."  Or put another way, Actions speak louder than words.
     In an earlier post I waxed eloquent about the amazing qualities of Kale.  But having said all that I also confessed that I had never cooked, much less eaten the Queen of Greens.  So it was time to put my money where my mouth was and cook some up and try it.  And that's just what I did on Monday.  I provided a link to several recipes that included kale as a major player in that previous post.  In looking them over I found one that seemed to be appealing and not too difficult to prepare.  The recipe came from the website Allrecipes.com and gave "Sweet and Savory Kale" a 4.5 star rating and described it this way:  "This quick and tasty recipe combines vitamin-packed kale with both sweet and tangy ingredients for a colorful side dish."
     They were correct in their assessment!  I must admit that we were both on the dubious side of skeptical as it cooked but the proof of the pudding was indeed in the eating.  It received two thumbs up at the dinner table and will be a healthy and tasty addition to our meals from now on.  Here is the recipe for you to try and taste for yourself:

SWEET AND SAVORY KALE

2 tbsp EVOO                                                    1  1/2 cups chicken broth 

1 small onion, diced                                       4 cups stemmed, torn and rinsed kale 

2 cloves garlic, minced                                  1/4 cup dried cranberries 

1 Tbsp Dijon mustard                                    salt & pepper to taste 

4 tsp white sugar                                            1/4 cup sliced almonds

1 Tbsp cider vinegar

     Heat olive oil in a large pot over medium heat.  Stir in the onion and garlic; cook and stir until the onion softens and turns translucent, about 5 minutes.  Stir in the mustard, sugar, vinegar, and chicken stock and bring to a boil over high heat.  Stir in the kale, cover, and cook for 5 minutes until wilted.

     Stir in the dried cranberries and continue boiling, uncovered, until the liquid had reduced by about half and the cranberries have softened, about 15 minutes.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.  Sprinkle with sliced almonds before serving.



    

Grinding out a new recipe

     Remember your mother's old fashoned meat grinder?  It was the one that clamped to the countertop and minced up virtually everything she put down the spout with the interchangable cutting attachments that screwed onto the front.  My mother used hers to grind up onions, celery and ham to make a fabulous ham salad that was great on crackers and in a sandwich made with Strohmann bread.  And I was always there to help turn the crank and watch the ingredients disappear into the auger and come out the other end.

     Now a days we have the sophisticated food processors that accomplish the same thing but without the charm.  I found a new spin (no pun intended) on that old ham salad recipe and recently cooked up a ham loaf for dinner.  I ground up a small ham in my food processor and then added some already ground pork to combine the two evenly just like that old meat grinder would have done.  The rest of the recipe is listed below:

HAM & PORK LOAF 

1 lb ground smoked ham                                  1 cup fine dry bread crumbs 

3/4 lb ground pork                                            1/4 tsp paprika 

1/2 cup finely chopped onion                          1/4 tsp salt

1/4 cup chopped red bell peppers                    1/8 tsp black pepper

pinch sage                                                         3 eggs, beaten

2 Tbsp chopped parsley                                    1/2 cup peach preserves

1 1/2 tsp minced garlic                                     1 Tbsp honey

1 Tbsp + 1/4 cup Dijon mustard 

     Preheat the oven to 350F.  Perforate a doubled sheet of heavy duty aluminum foil and place it on a cooling rack over a cookie sheet.  In a large bowl mix together the ham, pork, onions, bell pepper, sage, parsley garlic, and 1 Tbsp of the mustard.  Add 3/4 cup of the bread crumbs, paprika, salt and pepper and mix well.  Mix in the eggs and, as needed, add additional bread crumbs until the mixture comes together. 

     In a small saucepan bring the peach preserves to a simmer over medium heat.  Stir in 1/4 cup of mustard and the honey and cook, stirring, until well combined.  Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.

     Place the ham mixture on the aluminum foil and form into a loaf approximately 2" high.  Spread about half of the glaze over the top.  Bake until firm and lightly browned and the meat is cooked through,  1 to 1 1/2 hours, spooning additional glaze on during the last 10 minutes of cooking.  Check internal temperature with a meat thermometer; it is done when the meat reaches 145 to 150 degrees.

     Allow to sit 5 minutes before serving. 



Ashes to Ashes

          One Ash Wednesday a young boy accompanied his father to church for the disposition of the ashes.  As the priest began the service he intoned a prayer of contrition with the words, "Most merciful Father, we confess this day that we are but dust..."
          The son looked up at his father and asked in a stage whisper loud enough for all those around him to hear his question, "Daddy, what is butt dust?"
          For all practical purposes the service at that point was over. 

 

          Yesterday I asked the question why the observances of Easter and Ash Wednesday do not fall on the same calendar dates each year and how are those dates determined.  To some this is a "mysterium tremendum" as to the seemingly random dates in the Spring for these two events.  The answer lies in the Hebrew calendar that was in place when those religious holidays are originated.  The early Jewish community based their 12 month calendar on the phases of the moon which makes a full rotation around the sun every 29.5 days.  Every month began with the observation of the new moon.  It was not until the adoption of the Gregorian calendar in 1582 that the year was based on the earth's rotation around the sun, every 365.25 days.  The discrepancy between the lunar and solar calendar annually is 11 days. 

          To prevent the Hebrew calendar from slipping too far behind occasionally extra days were added so that Passover would remain in the Spring and not end up being a Fall holy day.  The corrections were based on a 19 year cycle resulting in 6 possible year lengths.  The Jews operated under two calendars: one for their religious observances and another (the Julian calendar) for civil occasions, like the paying of taxes to the Roman government. 

          Under the Hebrew calendar which functions in concert with the phases of the moon Easter continues to be calculated as the first Sunday after the first full moon after the Vernal Equinox.  Lent is calculated as the 40 days prior, excluding Sundays.  Ash Wednesday is then the 46th day before Easter and signifies the beginning of Lent.

A day to be shriven

               Today is Shrove Tuesday on the Christian calendar.  It is the day before Ash Wednesday, the beginning of Lent that marks 40 days, excluding Sundays, prior to Easter when the faithful enter into a time of self reflection, penitence, and austerity.  When a person is “shriven” they have confessed their sins and received the assurance of God’s forgiveness.  This practice is traditionally associated with the day before Lent begins.         
          The observance of Shrove Tuesday is enacted throughout the world with a variety of time honored traditions, most notably Mardi Gras (Fat Tuesday) and Carnival (farewell to meat).  Both observances are historically rooted in the Lenten practice of denial of worldly pleasures but has become a time of frivolity and often debauchery.
          Some other practices associated with Shrove Tuesday focus on using up certain pantry and kitchen items that are identified with excesses, like sugar, flour, butter, and fat.  So many foods made from those ingredients are prepared on the day prior to Lent’s onset.
          In England Shrove Tuesday is also called “Pancake Tuesday.”  To use up the forbidden staples before Ash Wednesday pancakes are made and eaten.  Many towns hold a Pancake Day race following a longstanding tradition.  According to legend, when one woman was in the kitchen cooking up the pancakes for her family she lost track of time.  So when the shriven church bells rang calling the faithful to confession, she ran to the church  with her apron still on, frying pan in her hand, flipping the last pancake.  This observance is still conducted throughout the nation and has been held in Olney every year since 1445.
          There are quite a few variations of Shrove Tuesday around the globe.  In the Netherlands it is called Vastenavond (Fasting Eve) and is a time of feasting and merrymaking.  In Finns know the day as Laskiaispaiva and a typical meal of pea soup and blinis, a rich kind of pancake, are served with caviar and smetana, a sour milk.  It is Vastla Paev in Estonia and a traditional soup of pigs’ feet boiled with dried peas or lima beans is served.
          In the Pennsylvania German tradition Fastnachts are fried up in hot oil and enjoyed with a morning cup of coffee.  They are yeast raised potato flour doughnuts, minus the hole in the center.  The term is from the German for “fasting night.”  In certain sections of Maryland they are called “kinklings” and are very similar to fastnachts.  In Polish communities throughout the US Paczki Day is observed and a flattened sphere shaped deep fried jelly doughnut is eaten.  And in Hamtramck, a suburb near Detroit there is even a Paczki Day Parade.
          So now a question for you to ponder.  “Why do the dates for Easter and Ash Wednesday change annually and how are those dates determined?

Italian Wedding Soup

     Yesterday I referenced a new recipe I had found and tucked away for future reference.  It was for Italian Wedding Soup.  In my accompanying research I discovered that it was named so not because it is served at Italian weddings but that it is the marrying of two distinct flavors: beef and vegetables.  This recipe was printed in the latest edition of Cook's Illustrated magazine.  As is their style, it is somewhat involved and at times tedious.  But the end result is a superior quality meal that all nationalities can enjoy.  So, Mangia!

ITALIAN WEDDING SOUP

Broth

1 onion, chopped                                     1 bay leaf

1 fennel bulb, halved, cored, chopped    ½ cup white wine

4 garlic cloves, smashed                        1 Tbsp Worcestershire

¼ oz dried porcini mushrooms          4 cups L. S. chicken broth

4 oz ground pork                                    2 cups beef broth

4 oz lean ground beef                            2 cups water

 Meatballs

1 slice bread, torn into 1” pieces              salt & pepper

5 tbsp heavy cream                                    1 tsp baking powder

¼ cup Parmesan cheese                           6 oz ground pork

4 tsp finely grated onion                           6 oz lean ground beef

½ tsp grated garlic                                    2 tsp minced oregano

                                     

1 cup ditalini pasta

12 oz kale, stemmed and cut into ½” pieces

For the broth:  Heat onion, fennel, garlic, porcini, pork, beef and bay leaf in Dutch oven over med-high heat; cook, stirring frequently, until meats are no longer pink, about 5 minutes.  Add wine and Worcestershire, cook for 1 minute.  Add chicken broth, beef broth, and water; bring to a simmer.  Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 30 minutes.

For the meatballs:  While broth simmers, combine bread, cream, Parmesan, onion, garlic and pepper to taste in a bowl; using a fork, mash mixture into a uniform paste.  Using a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat pork, baking powder and ½ tsp salt on high speed until smooth & pale, 1 to 2 minutes, scraping down bowl as needed.  Add bread mixture, beef and oregano; mix on medium-low speed until just incorporated, 1 to 2 minutes, scraping down the bowl. Using moistened hands, form heaping teaspoons of meat mixture into smooth round meatballs; you should have 30 to 35.  Cover and refrigerate for up to one day.

Strain broth through fine mesh strainer set over a large bowl, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible.  Wipe out Dutch oven and return broth to pot.

 Return broth to simmer over med-high heat.  Add pasta and kale; cook stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes.  Add meatballs; return to simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until meatballs are cooked through and pasta is tender, 3 to 5 minutes.  Season with salt & pepper to taste and serve.

 Serves 6 to 8

The Queen of Greens

     Recently I came across an interesting recipe that I saved.  It was for Italian Wedding Soup.  In reading it I discovered that it is not served at Italian weddings but is named for the marrying of two flavors: in the meatballs and in the broth which is influenced by the addition of kale.  So I went out and purchased some of the leafy vegetable.
     I have never used kale in any of my meal preparations and was interested in learning more about it.  It is an amazing vegetable indeed!  In fact kale, sometimes known as borecole, is one of the healthiest vegetables on the planet.  1 cup contains a mere 36 calories while packing 5 grams of fiber.  In addition it is super rich in many of the things our bodies need daily, things like calcium, magnesium, copper, potassium and iron.  And kale knocks it out of the park with 180% of the daily requirement of Vitamin A, 200% of Vitamin C, and a whopping 1,020% of Vitamin K.  It also contains vital cancer inhibiting antioxidants and helps to lower cholesterol and reduces the risk of heart disease by producing glucosinolates.  It is a member of the Brassica family which includes cabbage, collards, broccoli and Brussels sprouts.
     Kale originated along the Mediterranean coast 2,500 years ago and was the mainstay in the diet of the European peasantry due to it's abundance.  It was eventually transported to the New World in the 17th Century.  It is available year round but the growing season is from the middle of Winter to the beginning of Spring.  In fact, a light frost contributes to the sweetness of it's leaves.  It's health benefits are most pronounced when it is steamed after being rinsed and it's flavor can be enhanced by sprinkling the chopped leaves with lemon juice prior to cooking.  Kale is the main ingredient in many recipes as the link will reveal when you click on to it.
     Gee, why have I waited so long to take advantage of the "The Queen of Greens"?

Retro

     For the coming week I have decided to prepare some retro meals.  Those are the meals that I always looked forward to when I was growing up.  See if these are familiar to you from those "glorious days of yesteryear."

Saturday 

Philly Steak Sandwiches

Sweet Potato Fries

Broccoli

Sunday

Cranberry Bean Soup

Sausage & Pepper Sandwich

Monday

Ham loaf

French Potato Casserole

Green Beans

Tuesday

Smothered Pork Chops

Peas

Wednesday

Chicken Cordon Bleu

Wide Noodles

Brussel Sprouts

Thursday

Kitchen Closed

White Bread World

     Later this morning I will have the solemn duty to perform a funeral.  The family will gather at the funeral home to hear my remarks and then we will proceed to the cemetery for the interment.  Following that brief ceremony all those who mourn will gather at a local establishment for the traditional funeral luncheon. 
     In her book Death Warmed Over, Lisa Rogak describes such events in America as "white bread,"  bland, unexciting and predictable.  In polling some of her WASP friends about the food they most remember being served at funeral luncheons the most frequent response was "baloney and cheese slapped in between two slices of Wonder Bread."  Some of the more adventurous responses included variations on egg and chicken salad sandwiches.  That makes the Minnesota Lutheran's funeral "hot dish" seem bold in comparison.  Such is the plight of funerals in Protestant America.

 

     So to us in America, funerals in Jamaica must look like outright celebrations.  To ward off the spirit of the deceased and encourage it to move on to the next life, a raucous celebratory wake not only celebrates the life of the deceased but fills the soul of the dearly departed with good cheer to disable any evil that might remain.

     A Jamaican wake is a lengthy event, lasting for nine nights after the burial.  They dance and sing loudly each night until midnight.  After nine nights the soul is then ready to make the journey to the other side.  Then, forty nights after the death another party is held and another night of dancing and singing is held just to make sure the dearly departed has really done so.

     Some Jamaicans also place several johnnycakes (the original term was journey cake) in the casket with the deceased just before the burial to make sure that the soul has enough food for the journey.

JOHNNYCAKE

1 cup yellow cornmeal                                                   1 1/3 cups pastry flour

1 1/2 cups milk                                                                2 1/2 tsp baking powder

1/2 cup butter, at room temperature                             1 tsp salt

1/2 cup sugar                                                                  1 egg 

Preheat the oven to 350F.  Grease an 8" square pan.  In a large mixing bowl, combine the cornmeal and 1/2 cup of the milk.  Set aside.  In another bowl, cream the butter and gradually add the sugar.  Set aside.  In another bowl, sift the flour, baking powder, and salt together.  In a glass measuring cup, beat together the egg and the remaining 1 cup of milk.  Alternately add the flour mixture and the milk/egg mixture to the butter mixture, stirring after each addition until combined.  Add the cornmeal mixture and mix until smooth. 

Pour into the prepared pan and bake for 45 minutes.  Cut into 9 squares and serve hot with butter and syrup, if desired.

Made in the USA

     Recently I've been extolling the virtues of several international cuisines like Italian, French and German.  Any large metropolitan area will have any number of regional restaurants offering up the local fare for their culture.  But today I want to speak about food that is prepared right here in the good old US of A.  You know, the kind of meals that our great nation is known for.  To find that kind of cooking requires not an excursion to a fine dining establishment but a short trip to a local church supper or a firehouse dinner.  And that's where I was last night.  I had the honor of attending the annual awards ceremony for the 5th Fire District of Montgomery County.  It was hosted by the North Penn Volunteer Fire Company in my hometown, North Wales.

     It was a meal of amazing proportion prepared by a dedicated group of ladies who offer their skill and labor for free to raise funds that support the fire company.  Some of them were at work in the kitchen for most of the afternoon after shopping for all the ingredients that same morning.  The buffet line was filled with genuine home cooked favorites like succotash, green peas, mashed potatoes and roast beef and gravy.  Meals like that are a rare find and a delight to the palate.  Here are some pictures of the workers serving up an honest to goodness All American meal:

From Tuscany with Love

     There's a bumper sticker I have (on the refrigerator, not my car) that reads simply,  Love People, Cook them tasty food.  Certainly a good way to convey love is to lovingly prepare a meal that can be enjoyed and appreciated, especially on a day like Valentine's Day.
     I have already mentioned my appreciation of the Tuscan style of cooking and last night's dinner highlighted three traditional tutti a tavola dishes, that is, cooking as the Tuscans do.  None of them were very difficult to prepare and all of them evoked love and compassion.  As I worked in the kitchen I recalled a sunny Fall day touring the ancient city of Radda, south of Florence:

 

     I began by preparing a roasting chicken for the oven by rubbing it inside and out with olive oil and sprinkling it with pepper and smoky paprika.  Then I place two small lemons in the cavity and trussed the legs and set it in a 375F oven for 2 hours.  Meanwhile I peeled and diced several russet potatoes and placed them in a pot of water so they could cook before being mashed with garlic cloves and topped with chopped parsley.  Finally I cut three bell peppers (capsicums) of different colors and thinly sliced a red onion for the peperonata.  (Recipe follows).

   In fine Tuscan tradition the meal was prepared without any complicated directions to follow and was served with the bumper sticker's admonition in mind.  Every element on the plate complimented the other.  And the pan juices from the chicken mixed with the juice of the squeezed cooked lemons provided a wonderful gravy! 

 

     PEPERONATA

1 lb bell peppers, stems, ribs and seeds removed  

1/4 cup EVOO 

1 red onion, halved and thinly sliced crosswise 

2 bay leaves 

3 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, then coarsely chopped (or canned whole plum tomatoes) 

salt and freshly ground pepper 

     Cut the bell peppers into 2" squares.  In a saucepan over low heat, combine the peppers, olive oil, onion, and bay leaves and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are softened and have released their juices, about 15 minutes. 

     Add the tomatoes, season to taste and simmer gently until the vegetables are soft, about 5 minutes.  Remove and discard the bay leaves.  Serve the peperonata warm or chilled.

Makes 4 servings

The Tuscan Table

     I really enjoy cooking different regional foods.  The Swiss Rosti, Spanish Paella, and English Sticky Toffee Pudding are but a few examples.  But my favorite cooking style is that of the once city state in Italy that we know today as Tuscany.  There a meal is not merely for sustenance.  It is a time for people to come together and celebrate not just the occasional special days, but every day.  I learned that when I traveled there a few years ago and spent time learning their cooking and their lifestyle.
     Some would characterize Tuscan cooking by describing it with the word rustic.  But limiting that culinary style to a single word does not capture the intent of the people.  Nor does it begin to describe their flavorful and healthy meals.  Their meals are indeed unpretentious, using only the basic elements that are fresh, local and seasonal.  Here is an example of the ingredients that we used to prepare a dinner in an afternoon class:

   The classes were held at the Badia a Coltibuono  (Abbey of the Good Harvest), a thousand year old monastery just north of Florence in the tiny town of Gaiole in Chianti.  There we learned the time honored traditions of Tuscan cooking.  Some of those recipes are among my favorites, like Pera cotta, pears poached in wine:

      Another favorite of mine is an antipasti, Salvia Fritta, fried sage leaves.  Now that might not sound like much but not long ago I prepared them for a dinner party and could not keep up with the demand of the guests!  Here is the recipe:

FRIED SAGE LEAVES

18 large fresh sage leaves

1/3 cup flour

4 Tbsp water

pinch of salt

1 Tbsp olive oil

olive oil enough to fill skillet 1" deep

Place the flour in a bowl then add water and salt and mix well.  Add the olive oil whisking constantly to keep lumps from forming.  Whisk until the batter is the consistency of fluid cream.  In a deep, heavy skillet, heat the frying oil to 340F.  Dip each sage leaf into the batter and immediately drop it into the hot oil; do not crowd the pan.  Fry until lightly golden, about 3 minutes.  With a slotted spoon remove the leaves to absorbent paper towels to drain briefly.  Continue coating and frying the remaining sage leaves in the same manner.  Transfer the leaves to a warm plate and serve very hot.

Serves 6

N.B.  Be sure to click on the underlined highlighted words to learn more about Tuscany and the Badia a Coltibuono!

Natal Felicitations

     The kitchen here was closed on Sunday night in order that we might celebrate the anniversary of my wife's arrival on this terrestrial globe a few decades ago.  Well, OK, more than a few, but exactly how many I won't reveal to preserve my happy home.  To adequately celebrate this event we invited another couple to join us for dinner at The Joseph Ambler Inn on Horsham Road in Montgomery Township.  The inn has a reputation for fine dining with an exquisite menu and once again we were not disappointed.  From the warm bread assortment to the chocolate covered strawberries as a parting treat, every course was thoughtfully prepared and elegantly served.
     The birthday girl ordered the New Zealand barramundi for her entree while the rest of the table delighted in roasted lamb shank and filet mignon.  And for dessert three of us ordered a decadent cheesecake and a single creme brulee completed the round.  One of the cheesecakes arrived at the table with a celebratory candle in it!
     The quality of the dining experience was only surpassed by the conviviality of our guests.  It was indeed a memorable experience.  And I didn't have to prepare or cook any of it!

Classic Comfort

     As I look at the calendar for the week ahead it appears that the kitchen will be closed for several dinners.  The schedule has me on the move over the dinner hour.  So I want the meals that I am preparing to be classic comfort food that are as good the second time as they are the first.  So on Monday I plan to make an all-time favorite, tuna noodle casserole.  It's a great meal to warm both body and soul on a chilly winter's day.  And it's just as good re-heated for a hearty lunch later in the week.
     Then on Tuesday I'm going to prepare a meal I learned to cook in Tuscany, Pollo Arrosto al Limone, Lemon Roasted Chicken.  My Florence cookbook describes it this way:

It is one thing to say that simplicity is the essence of the Tuscan kitchen.  It is quite another to taste the extraordinary deliciousness that can come from just one chicken, two lemons, and a pinch of salt and pepper...Serve this dish with roasted-garlic mashed potatoes for a favorite weeknight meal.

That's exactly what I plan to do!  And then with the remaining meat from the roasted chicken I plan to cook another classic comfort food, Chicken Pot Pie.

    

Stream of Consciousness

     It's snowing here for the second time in a week.  Fortunately it's one of those snows that only accumulates on the grass and not on the paved surfaces.  But it brought to mind what it must be like in the Winter in Alaska where snow is common place.  And that brought to mind what the locals there do when there's a death in the family.  And that made me wonder what they might prepare for the mourners to eat after the funeral.  So I consulted the book Death Warmed Over to find out.
     Not surprisingly they serve fish, not unlike the chowder that I wrote about earlier this week.  Here is the recipe for Tlingit Fish Soup:

TLINGIT FISH SOUP

2 Tbsp EVOO                                                   1 1/2 cups milk

1 large onion, chopped                                   1/2 cup flour

2 carrots, peeled & chopped                         1 lb halibut, salmon or cod cut into chunks

1 head garlic, peeled & minced                     frozen spinach, thawed & squeezed dry

4 qts chicken broth                                         salt & pepper

     In a large stockpot heat the oil over medium heat.  Saute the onions and carrot until the onions are translucent.  Add the garlic.  Cook for five minutes.  Add the broth.  Bring to a boil over high heat, then decrease the heat to low and simmer for about 20 minutes.

     In a small bowl mix 1/4 to 1/2 cup of the milk with the flour.  Stir until a paste forms.  Slowly add the remaining milk to the flour mixture.  Stir until smooth.  Add the flour mixture to the broth, stirring constantly.  Add the fish and the spinach.  Cook until the fish is heated through.  Add salt and pepper to taste and ladle into bowls.

Serves 8 to 10

Mmm, mmm Good!

     I continue to enjoy the Seafood Chowder that I made on Wednesday.  Each day the flavor seemed to deepen.  Somehow chowder is more satisfying than any soup I could make.  Chowder is soup, but more than soup.  Ironically it was once considered "poor man's food" and not for the well born and the landed gentry.  But what exactly is chowder?  It's really difficult to define because it can be made with a basic stock that can vary from creamy white, to clear and briny to tomato based.  And the ingredients are even more varied.  It usually includes fish or shellfish but is not limited to them alone.  Chowder recipes can also call for conch, alligator, clam, crayfish or crab that can be combined with potato, corn, lentil, tomato, beans, pasta, onion or celery.  All are thrown into a large cooking pot or kettle.  In Latin the word for the pot is calderia and in French it is chauchiere which is probably the origin of the title we now give to this hearty, savory dish.
     Chowder can be traced back to the early fishing villages on the coastline of either side of the English Channel.  When the fishing ships would return from the sea each village had a large kettle waiting in which a portion of each ship's catch would be placed to be cooked and served as a part of the community's welcome celebration.  So the term "chowder" describes both the food as well as the social gathering at which it is prepared and served.
     In America the settlers also enjoyed chowder made from locally caught and grown ingredients and regional variations began to appear.  Hence the rivalry in taste preferences between New England and Manhattan Clam Chowder.  Interestingly enough, the first printed fish chowder recipe in the New World appeared in the Boston Evening Post on September 23, 1751.  There is also a "land locked" southern Illinois Chowder recipe currently in some mid western cookbooks.
     Chowder is truly an international delight.  Some form or variation of fish stew is enjoyed in every nation with a coast.  The Italian Cioppino, French Bouillabaisse and Korean Jeongol are but a few examples.
     But for right now I will continue to savor my Long Island Seafood Chowder as another snowstorm looms on the weather map.

Soup's On!

     My plan to grill outside this week hit a snag on Wednesday when snow was in the forecast.  So I altered my menu plans and decided to spend the day in the kitchen cooking up some comfort food as I watched the snowflakes dance to the ground.  I began by hauling the bread making machine up from the basement and loaded it with the ingredients for my favorite loaf of bread:  applesauce, oatmeal and raisin.  While that churned away I drove over to my favorite fish monger at Suburbia Seafood and got a pound of whiting that was to be the main ingredient in a Long Island Baymen Seafood Chowder.  Last week in a trip to Chestnut Hill I purchased that chowder kit in a little market.  I was pleased to find it since I had previously made soups from Purely American before and was pleased with the results.  They sell all the "dry goods" for the soup and provide a recipe and instructions and a story of the history of the meal.  They also give you a list of the fresh items that you need to have on hand.  In my case it was the fish, bacon, canned tomatoes, onions and celery, and of course, water.
     Purely American is as it's name suggests, an all-American company that uses organic and salt free ingredients and provides the basis for good, healthy, and wholesome meals, all with a connection to our historic past.  (My favorite is Ozark Snake Bite Chili.)
     So I followed the instructions line by line.  Having soaked the beans in a covered pot of water overnight, I was ready to slice and dice.  It took about two and a half hours for everything to come together, just about the same time that the loaf of bread was finished.  Together they provided a great meal to enjoy on a snowy day!



When is a fruit not a fruit?

     It's been quite a revelation to discover that many of what we have come to know as vegetables are in reality fruits.  When something starts out as a blossom on a stem and eventually becomes something more, it is a legitimate fruit.  Permit me to give you some other examples:  There is the entire squash family.  You know, the familiar ones like zucchini, pumpkin, cucumber, watermelon, cantaloupe, honeydew and gourds.  Yup, technically they are all fruits.  Then there is also the family of beans: green, wax, lima, fava, long & soy.  And within the bean family are also the peas that we look forward to and enjoy each Spring.  And how about the avocado?  Yes, that too, is a fruit.  And an interesting one at that.  Did you know that avocados do not ripen until after they are picked?  So the farmers that grow them actually store them on the tree until they are harvested and shipped.
     But perhaps the most unlikely fruit that we enjoy is corn.  Corn you say, a fruit?  Well, yes it is.  Because each individual grain on an ear of corn is a miniature fruit that is mainly seed.  But when you think of it, the silks or tassel that we remove before cooking corresponds to the parts of a blossom that we observe in our flowers.
     We consume fresh corn approximately 3 weeks after pollination while the fruits are still immature and their storage tissues are still sweet and juicy.  But a word of caution about that much sought after sweetness that we long for as the days of Summer wane.  In 3 days traditional sweet corn converts half of it sugar into tasteless starch.  That is a good reason to avoid supermarket corn which has probably spent more than that time period to get from where it was pulled to the store display.  Instead wait patiently until the local farm stands have fresh picked ears that only a few hours earlier were still in the field, like this vendor's at the St. Paul Farmer's Market:

 

     There are many successful methods for cooking corn on the cob, from grilling it in the husk to microwaving it in saran wrap.  Here's the method that we use at home:

1. Husk the corn and remove all the silks

2. Fill a pot with water and add 1 Tbsp each of lemon juice and sugar

3. Place ears of corn in the water and bring the water to a full rolling boil for 2 minutes

4. Remove pot from heat and cover and let stand for 10 minutes

5.  Enjoy!

Oh yes, and by the way, I did buy that ear of corn at the farmer's market and had it for breakfast!