Man Cookies

      One of life's great pleasures is eating a cookie.  And when you think about it, there are different cookies for different occasions.  For me, the ginger snap is inextricably tied to Halloween and trick or treating.  They're good when they are fresh and crisp, but also just as good then they are softened up and gooey.  Oreo cookies remind me of an after school treat, dunked in a glass of milk.  And the sophisticated petite fours are representative of high society and a ladies' tea party.  Toll house cookies (see VinnyPost April 25) are the snack of choice in the brown bag lunch for students and employees alike.  And it would not be Christmas without a sugar cookie covered with green and red sprinkles.

     But Man Cookies are only for an occasion like last night at the firehouse in North Wales as we awaited the impending hurricane.  We were all sitting around eating a portion of the ten gallons of chili I had cooked up earlier and drinking some strong coffee kindly donated.  Coffee so strong that you could float a horseshoe on it.  It is an occasion like that when only a Man Cookie will do.

     Man Cookies are special and definitely not for just anyone.  First off, they are the size of a small hubcap.  So large, in fact, that a batch of dough only makes a dozen of them.  And then there are the manly ingredients: bacon, honey roasted peanuts, pork fat, chipotle powder, cinnamon, peanut butter and chocolate chips.  They are not for the faint of heart.  And they are packed with energy with far more character than some fancy store bought energy bar.  Beside the egg for protein there is a whole cup of sugar (granulated and brown) that goes into the mix to provide that needed burst of power to respond to any emergency.

     If you think you are man enough to try one, here is the recipe:

MAN COOKIES

1 1/4 cup all purpose flour                 1/2 cup creamy peanut butter

1/4 tsp baking soda                            1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/4 tsp baking powder                       1/2 cup light brown sugar

1/8 tsp ground cinnamon                   1 large egg

pinch of chipotle powder                   1 tsp vanilla extract

1/4 tsp kosher salt                              1/2 cup honey roasted peanuts, chopped

5 strips bacon (1/3 lb)                         1/2 cup semi sweet chocolate chips

4 Tbsp unsalted butter-room temperature

     Preheat oven to 350F.  Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.  Combine flour, baking soda, cinnamon, chipotle powder and salt in a large bowl.  Cook the bacon in a skillet over medium heat until crisp.  Transfer to a paper towel lined plate; reserve 2 Tbsp of the drippings and set aside to cool.  Crumble the bacon, discarding any chewy bits.

     Beat the butter and reserved bacon drippings in a large bowl with a mixer on medium-high speed until smooth, about 1 minute.  Beat in the two sugars until creamy, about 4 minutes, then add the egg and vanilla and beat until light and fluffy, about 2 more minutes.

     Reduce the mixer speed to low; add the flour mixture in 2 additions, scraping down the bowl as needed, until just combined.  Stir in the peanuts and all but the 2 Tbsp of the chocolate chips and bacon.

     Form the dough into 12 balls and arrange 2 inches apart on the prepared baking sheets.  Flatten with your fingers (the cookies will not spread out in the oven); press the reserved bacon and chocolate on top.  Bake until golden, 12-14 minutes.  Let the cookies cool 2 minutes on the baking sheets, then transfer to a rack to cool completely.  Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

recipe courtesy of:

Food Network Magazine, June 2011, p. 95



Yo Adrienne!

     Who can forget the memorable scene from the movie Rocky with Sylvester Stallone as the title character running through the Italian Market in South Philadelphia in training before stepping into the ring against Apollo Creed?  This morning I took a decidedly more leisurely approach down 9th Street with Jason, the tour guide from Philadelphia Urban Adventures.

     Before our group set out Jason explained the boundaries of the area, both physical and cultural and gave us an introduction to the historical roots of the region we now refer to as the Delaware Valley.  It was, and still is, a land of immigrants.  Coming like waves to the shore were the Irish, Eastern Europeans, Germans, and of course the Italians.  The gone but not forgotten Palumbo's Restaurant had its origins as a boarding house for Italian immigrants and helped them get on their feet in a new world.  And the Italian Market today confirms the fact that the waves are still coming with Latino, Vietnamese, and Chinese opening up shops as merchants with their own specialties.

 

     Our first stop on the tour was Sarcone's Bakery where the aroma of freshly baked bread was wafting out the door.  We each sampled a tug of a still warm loaf of bread from the oven as Jason told of their insistence on quality and how that principle has literally brought the world to their door step since 1918.  If you want to purchase their bread you have to go to their bakery to pick it up yourself, restaurants included.  And the constant stream of customers exiting with paper bags full of rolls was testament to their success.

 

     Another stop on the tour was to DiBruno Brothers.  No where else in Philadelphia can you find such magnificent cheese and coffee.  The store began as a butcher shop with some other items, but realizing that they needed to find their own niche in an economic downturn, decided to specialize in the items they knew best.  After facing closure the next generation revitalized their business and today succeeds where others have not.  It is a great story of innovation and survival, almost as great as the samples of Parmigiano-Reggiano drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar that we received!

 

     Among some of the newer shops is the Tortilleria San Roman.  There you can get the freshest tortillas available in the city and the warmth of the samples are living (and tasting) proof.  But Jason warned us, "The green sauce is hot, and the red sauce is even hotter."  So we spooned it on our tortillas at our own peril.

 

     While the majority of the shops and stalls concentrate on food, it is not just about eating but also preparing a meal.  Fante's is an amazing store loaded with all kinds of kitchen appliances and utensils that are not available anywhere else in the entire country.  It is another story of improvisation as the shop began by selling the furniture that the family owned business, built in the back of the showroom.  Slowly some kitchen items were included in the stock by other family members.  Now, again finding their niche, it is completely devoted to assisting cooks, professional and amateur, to discover the joy of the culinary arts.  (I had a difficult time walking away from the 1,000 item gadget wall.)  Like the DiBruno family story, Fante's is being operated by a new generation of merchants in the Italian Market.

 

     Time and space do not permit me to mention all the other stops and samples we enjoyed along with Jason's thoughtful and insightful presentation.  The Italian Market is a living history museum of culture and business.  And I'm sure that former Mayor Frank Rizzo is looking down with pride.



Hot Potatoes

    

     In the latest issue of Food Network Magazine there is an interesting statement about a familiar item at the Thanksgiving feast.  It is about sweet potatoes and asserts that "America's obsession with sweets isn't always a bad thing."  The annual per capita consumption of the ubiquitous tuber is currently 7 pounds, up from only 3.9 pounds just ten years ago.  Part of the credit for that increase is due to the fried version of this Central American native appearing on the menu at fast food chains like Wendy's and Burger King.  Sweet potatoes are also gaining celebrity status as several high profile individuals like Oprah Winfrey and Matthew Morrison are touting them.

     Sweet Potatoes have been eaten since pre-historic times.  This can be documented by the discovery of their relics in Peruvian caves that date back 10,000 years.  They were introduced to the Europeans when Columbus transported them when he returned there after his first voyage to the New World in 1492.  It was in the 16th Century that sweet potatoes were cultivated as a cash crop in the southern portion of North America.

     Sweet potatoes are an unsurpassed source of beta-carotene, which the body then converts into Vitamin A.  They are also powerful antioxidants with anti inflammatory characteristics.  They also are beneficial in regulating blood sugar.  Here is a chart that indicates their nutritional value:

Sweet Potato 1.00 cup baked 114.00 grams 102.60 calories
Nutrient	Amount	DV (%)	Nutrient Density	World's Healthiest Foods Rating
vitamin A	21908.52 IU	438.2	76.9	excellent
vitamin C	22.34 mg	37.2	6.5	very good
manganese	0.57 mg	28.5	5.0	very good
vitamin B6	0.33 mg	16.5	2.9	good
tryptophan	0.05 g	15.6	2.7	good
potassium	541.50 mg	15.5	2.7	good
fiber	3.76 g	15.0	2.6	good
vitamin B5	1.01 mg	10.1	1.8	good
copper	0.18 mg	9.0	1.6	good
vitamin B3	1.70 mg	8.5	1.5	good

     As mentioned above, sweet potatoes can be fried.  But they can also be enjoyed when they are baked, boiled or roasted.  And have you ever considered adding them to a stir fry recipe?  But nutritionally they are best served after steaming  1/2" slices for a mere 7 minutes.  That way their nutritional value is maximized and their sweet flavor is preserved.  And the flavor can be given an even greater boost by the addition of cinnamon, nutmeg or cloves sprinkled on them.

     Available year round, we would do ourselves a great favor to include them in our diet for more than just one day a year.

Ask a Selmelier

     Do you know a selmelier?  If you don't, you should.  It is a person who literally knows their salt, an expert who deals with one of the most common, yet most valuable commodities in the world.

     Salt, sodium chloride, wakes up the taste buds, making them more receptive to the true flavor of food.  It is 1 of the 5 taste sensations (sour, salty, bitter, sweet, savory).  Salt is an essential component to life: in humans, animals and plants.  In addition to flavoring our food, salt has numerous and diverse applications, playing an important role in industry, winter road safety and softening hard water.  It is mentioned no less than 30 times in the Bible, always with a reference to purity, most notably the words of Jesus "Ye are the salt of the earth."

     Salt has been around longer than recorded history.  In fact, the history of salt is a study of human civilization itself.  The two have been inextricably intertwined for millenia.  It has been used as a method of trade and currency and even our word salary is derived from the word salt.  Likewise, we use the word salad because the early Romans would salt their leafy greens and vegetables to improve their taste.

     Throughout history salt has been such a precious commodity that it was taxed by authorities and was a contributing factor in the French Revolution.  The Tuscans refused to pay the tax on salt and to this day their bread is baked salt free.  Salt mines became a tourist attraction and gave Salzburg, Germany its name.  There is even a hotel in Bolivia that is constructed completely out of salt.  Hutchinson, Kansas has an entire museum devoted to salt.  The livelihood of many communities is dependent to salt in one way or another.



     In it's most common form salt appears on our table to season our food.  The small crystalline structure is mined from underground deposits that produce small, even sized cubes.  Too much or too little, however can be harmful and can affect the body's delicate electrolyte balance that plays a vital role in neural transmissions.  Table salt is dense and the most intense of all the salt forms available.

     Sea salt, on the other hand, is evaporated from sea water and is a bit milder.  It is a favorite in the preservation of food while Kosher salt is more flaky with a larger surface area and is effective in drawing liquids out of things such as meat.  Artisan salt is popular as a finishing touch on foods and adds both taste and color to meals.  There are a wide variety of these salts on the market, with names like Alacea Red Hawaiian, Himalayan Pink and Cyprus Black Lava.

 

     While salt is essential to our being, a little goes a long way.  It is recommended that we consume no more than a single teaspoon daily.  And most of that is already provided in the processed food that we eat before we shake a single grain onto our plate.

     Extra Credit:  Who was recorded in the Bible as being turned into a pillar of salt for turning to look back?

A Plateful of Color

     The countryside is now ablaze with color.  The hues of Autumn are everywhere to be seen.  It is a beautiful sight to behold and one that should remind us of the variety of color groups that should likewise adorn our table as we sit down to eat each day.  Here are some of the colors we should consider:

YELLOW/ORANGE- Get a healthy dose of beta-carotene, which your body converts into Vitamin A.  It can be found in things like carrots, sweet potatoes and yams.

BLUE/PURPLE-Anthocyanins, found in grapes and raisins, are powerful antioxidants, which help reduce the risk of cancer.

GREEN- The calcium in greens, like broccoli, kale and lettuce, helps to maintain strong teeth and bones.

RED-Lycopene protects the heart and other cells from damage.  Tomatoes and cranberries are prodigious sources of this valuable carotenoid.

A colorful dinner plate is not only pleasing to the eye, it is also beneficial to the body!

Washington Ate Here

    

     It was a beautiful Autumn day here in the Keystone State.  I decided that I would get out on my chrome pony and check out the fall foliage at nearby Valley Forge National Historical Park.  Located just 20 miles NW of The City of Brotherly Love it is the site of the Continental Army's winter encampment in 1777-78.  Washington had decided to temporarily withdraw from battling the British during the American Revolution (1775-1783) and quartered his troops in small huts they constructed on the 3,500 acres of rolling hillsides of Valley Forge.

 

     It was during those cold winter months that the troops under Washington's command persevered through suffering, hardship and privation.  They came under the tutelage of charismatic Prussian General Baron von Steuben who trained and inspired the soldiers.  During that time they acquired a new found resolve, tenacity and determination and in the summer of 1778 went on to fight victoriously at the Battle of Monmouth.

 

     Had the G Lodge been there during that time Washington's men would have certainly been better fed.  I stopped there for breakfast before entering the park.  Located on Route 23 just outside Phoenixville it has been in operation since 1922 and serves up breakfast and lunch seven days a week.  It is a deceptive looking little non-descript building, appearing like it could only hold a dozen or so patrons.  But once inside the room is large enough to sport long tables and a long  counter that combined can easily accommodates nearly a hundred hungry diners.

   I was able to take the last available seat at the counter, near the cash register and enjoyed listening to Dennis greet each diner as they walked through the door as he peered up over his reader cheater glasses.  In keeping with my breakfast tradition I ordered my usual: scrapple, home fries, 2 scrambled eggs and whole wheat toast with coffee.  It came out of the kitchen promptly and hot from the large flat top.  Even the toast was still warm, buttery and flavorful.  And the home fries were the real deal, cut from new potatoes with a thin brown crust on the outside with a still tender and creamy interior.  The slice of scrapple was generous and cooked just the way I like it, not hurried or poached, but fried over a low slow heat.  But as I was enjoying my morning meal I happened to glance at the diners beside me, an older couple who were enjoying the weekend special.  Had I known of the unadvertised lump crab meat omelet or the crab meat eggs Benedict I would have had a new morning favorite.  But that's all the more reason to return once again and sit at the counter to enjoy a sumptuous meal as I watch the kitchen crew perform their culinary magic.

 

     Feeling content from my morning repast I toured the park and reminisced of the days gone by when I ran the 5.5 mile loop trail for exercise or the time back nearly half a century ago when as a Boy Scout I attended the 1964 National Jamboree there.  I stopped at Mad Anthony Wayne hill by his statue on horseback and gazed over the hill where I took my daughters sledding and realized how much fun we had sliding down that steep incline and trudging back up it to do it all over again. 

 

     The leaves were a bit past their peak but it was still an exhilarating morning to breathe in crisp clean air of Autumn and to remember, not only the history of our great nation, but also a bit of my own past.

Let them eat cake

 

     Following the Presidency George and Martha Washington resumed married life at his family's estate at Mount Vernon.  George looked after his business interests related to crop production, including a grist mill and distillery.  Martha oversaw the operation of the home, no small task considering that in one year alone she hosted over 600 guests who came to call.  Colonial cooking was a tedious task which required the time and talents of dozens of servants.  It was primitive by our modern standards, but not without its rewards to the palate.

    One of Martha's favorite and well liked recipes was for Great Cake.   It was a special dessert that was served as the grand finale for a celebration like Christmas dinner or a Twelfth Night party.  She asked her grand daughter, Martha Parke Custis Peter, to copy it down for use by other family members.  It reads as follows:

     "Take 40 eggs & divide the whites from the yolks & beat them to a froth then work 4 pounds of butter to a cream & put the whites of eggs to it a spoon full at a time till it is wellwork'd then put 4 pounds of suger finely powder'd to it in the same manner then put in the Youlks of eggs and 5 pounds of flower and 5 pounds of fruit*.  2 hours will bake it add to it half an ounce of mace and nutmeg half a pint of wine & some fresh brandy."

  

     Wow!  The chickens must have had to work overtime to produce enough eggs for the cake mixture.

     *a modernized version of the Great Cake recipe indicates that the fruit would most likely be currents, candied orange and lemon peel and candied citron, along with slivered almonds.  The wine mentioned in the recipe would probably have been Madeira.

The First First Lady

    

 

     There's an exhibit at Mount Vernon right now entitled "Hoecakes & Hospitality:  Cooking with Martha Washington."  It is a interesting account of life in colonial times as it relates to food.  One of the depictions states:

 

George Washing kept a careful eye on Mount Vernon's crops, but Martha Washington oversaw the kitchen gardens that furnished foodstuffs for the dinner tables.  In a time before grocery stores or farmers markets, the kitchen gardens were "a necessary support of life," as one gardening manual observed.  Mount Vernon's hired gardener and two or three enslaved workers tended herbs, vegetables and fruits, which the cooks transformed into tasty dishes.

 

One of the garden crops was asparagus (see VinnyPost  March 1).  Here is one of Martha's recipes for "a ragoo of asparagus."

 

Scrape a hundred of grass very clean, and throw it into cold water.  When you have scraped all, cut as far as is good and green, about an inch long, and take two heads of endive clean washed and picked, cut it very small, a young lettuce clean washed and cut small, a large onion peeled and cut small,  put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew pan, when it is melted throw in the above things;  toss them about, and fry them ten minutes; then season them with a little pepper and salt, shake in a little flour, toss them about, then pour in half a pint of gravy.  Let them stew till the sauce is very thick and good; then pour all into your dish.  Save a few of the little tops of the grass to garnish the dish.

 

Sounds like Martha was accustomed to cooking for a crowd...

A Capital Idea

     On my recent trip to our nation's capital I was eager to visit some of the noted eateries in town.  Since my daughter is a resident of "The District" I had the advantage of her culinary experience and followed her advice on where to dine.  It was a bit of a shock to learn that we would need reservations for breakfast on a Saturday at "Ted's Bulletin."  Reservations?  For breakfast?

     But once we arrived on time at 8:30 I soon learned why.  The Capital Hill restaurant located in SE by Barrack's Row had nary a free seat available and there was a line working toward the front door.  But fortunately we were greeted warmly by the hostess who found our name on the list and seated us promptly.  The breakfast menu (available all day long) came along with a hot cup of coffee and a cheerful smile from our waitress.  As I caught my breath from the brisk walk to their 8th Street location from the Metro stop I looked around at the throwback decor that included lighting from Philadelphia's Convention Hall and a movie projector showing Marx Brothers classics on the wall.  And the menu itself resembled an old time newspaper.

     And speaking of newspapers, The Washington Post has described Ted's as a "comfortable eatery with a retro vibe and a menu that features carefully curated classics."  I call it a place to really enjoy a meal of good old fashioned comfort food.  The menu was full of favorites like grilled cheese and tomato soup, meat loaf and cornbread, sloppy joes, Reubens, and burgers and shakes, and reportedly the best breakfast in the area.  So I ordered up the "Walk of Shame Breakfast Burrito."  It contained sirloin steak, scrambled eggs, hash browns, cheddar cheese and green chile sauce all rolled up in a soft tortilla.  I was not disappointed.  It was a sumptuous way to begin the day.  And to complete the meal our table shared one of their signature homemade toaster pastries.  My generation would call them pop tarts except that they went far beyond the cardboard out of the box creations that I consumed in college.  These came in a wide range of flavors and toppings.  The most interesting was the peanut butter bacon one which was also the most requested of the econo size delights.

 

     So the next time you plan a visit to our Nation's seat of government, be sure to put Ted's Bulletin on your list of attractions.  But make a reservation, even for breakfast!

Easy as Pie

     Yesterday I discussed the etymology and historicity of our favorite Fall fruit (yes, pumpkins are technically a fruit).  Today I will take a look at the more practical side of pumpkins.  After we have carved a scary face on one of the Connecticut Field varieties, the most popular for Jack-o-Lanterns, we are left with a post Halloween surplus that ultimately ends up in pies for Thanksgiving.
    
     But please don't relegate the tasty interior of this gourd to just a post turkey dinner dessert with a dollop of whipped cream on the top.  Pumpkins are that, to be sure, but they are so much more as well.  There are literally hundreds of recipes for pumpkins and seems only to be limited by the imagination of the cook.  Pumpkins are the main ingredient in every course at the dining room table from appetizer to dessert: soup, bread and entree included.  Here is but a sampling of some items containing pumpkins:

                           pancakes                           

soups

gingerbread

chili

mac & cheese

lasagna

risotto

stew

fritters

bread

cheesecake

ice cream

 

 

 

     But getting back to the traditional use of pumpkins in pies, how about trying one this Thanksgiving that has a southern accent?

 

PUMPKIN PECAN PIE

 

3 eggs                                                          dash salt

1 cup canned solid pack pumpkin        2/3 cup corn syrup (light or dark)

1 cup sugar, divided                                 2 Tbsp melted butter

1/2 tsp ground cinnamon                       1 tsp vanilla

1/4 tsp ground ginger                              1 cup coarsely chopped pecans

1/8 tsp ground cloves                              1 pre-made deep dish pie crust

 

Pre-heat oven to 350F.

 

If using a frozen pie crust, do not thaw; pre-heat a baking sheet in the oven and place the pie on the cookie sheet to bake.

 

In a small bowl combine one egg, pumpkin, 1/3 cup sugar, & spices and spread into the pic crust.  In a medium bowl beat the remaining 2 eggs slightly.  Stir in the corn syrup and the remaining 2/3 cup sugar, butter & vanilla; stir until well blended.  Stir in the pecans.  Carefully spoon it over the pumpkin mixture.

 

Bake 50 to 60 minutes or until the filling is set around the edges of the pie.

Cinderella's Coach

    

      Who can forget the Disney movie "Cinderella"  when the Fairy Godmother turns an ordinary pumpkin into a carriage with mice becoming coachmen?  The pumpkin has played a part in history for thousands of years and is still an integral element in Halloween celebrations throughout the United States.

     It was the Greeks who first named the fruit pepon meaning "large melon."  And the French then nasalized it into pompon and the proper British called it pompion.  By the time the word crossed the Atlantic Ocean it was pumpkin to the Colonists.  The North American species is a member of the cucurbitaceae family, a squash like the zucchini and watermelon.  They range in size from under a pound to over a thousand pounds and are easily recognized by their orange color, but can also be green, white, red and gray.

    
     Here are some interesting pumpkin facts:

80% of all the pumpkins produced in the U.S. are available in October.
Pumpkin production in the US exceeds 1.5 billion pounds annually.
Pumpkins are a major cash crop in IL, PA, OH, IN, & CA
90% of a pumpkin is water
Pumpkins are loaded with beta-carotene which becomes Vitamin A
1 cup of cooked pumpkin contains only 49 calories
Morton, IL is the self proclaimed pumpkin capital of the world
The modern Jack-O-Lantern is based on an old Irish legend

 





     Many communities hold annual pumpkin festivals and one of the most notable is in Moab, UT.  The Pumpkin Chuckin Festival will be held this year on October 27 and will feature a variety of methods of lift off including slingshots, catapults, trebuchets and air cannons.  Be sure to stand behind them to watch the festivities!

Another Philly Tradition

 

     In 1914 Pittsburgh baker Philip J. Bauer and Boston egg salesman Herbert T. Morris went into business in Philadelphia to produce baked goods.  It was Morris' wife who came up with the name for the new business venture when after sampling some of the samples declared that they were tasty.  And the Tasty Baking Company was founded.

 

     The first day's sales of the ten cent cakes totaled $28 and by the end of the first week the till rang up  $222.  But by the end of the year the popular fresh baked, individually wrapped goods had grossed over $300,000 in sales.  Some of the early favorites sold in the City of Brotherly Love were the chocolate Juniors and the butterscotch Krimpets.  It was in the 1930's that the lunch box size pies were introduced to the public for a nickel a piece.  Later, in 1985 the Tasty Baking Company began to bake donuts and currently they produce more than 1.5 million daily.  Over all nearly five million cakes, donuts, cookies and pies come out of the oven each day, requiring 135,000 pounds of sugar into the mix.

    
     And among all the different products that the Tasty Baking Company produces, which one is the top seller?  It's the peanut butter kandy kake!

A Philly Tradition

    
     The pretzel is as much a part of Philadelphia as is the Liberty Bell.  You can purchase one (or several) on almost any corner in the City of Brotherly Love.  Slathered with bright yellow mustard they are an acceptable meal any time of the day or night.  The average Philadelphian consumes twelve times the national average of 1.5 pounds per year.  That computes to 18 pounds of pretzels!  It should come as little surprise then, since Pennsylvania is considered the center of pretzel production and produces 80% of all the pretzels sold in the United States.  They come in a variety of shapes, sizes and textures, from the thin crispy pretzel sticks to the soft chewy bread-like soft pretzels.  They are also modified into other edibles such as cones for ice cream and also sandwich slices.

     The first pretzels made in America were from the Lancaster County town of Lititz.  There the Sturgis family operated a bakery.  In 1850 one day a transient was passing through looking for work and a meal and stopped by.  Having no employment opportunities,  the owner, Julius Sturgis, provided the traveler with a hot meal and in return for his munificence was given a recipe for German pretzels.  Soon the Sturgis Bakery abandoned all their other baked goods and produced only pretzels, selling them to an ever expanding and enthusiastic audience.  Today pretzel affectionados are referred to as "pretzelphytes."

     Pretzels have a long history with a religious significance, created by a Roman Catholic order of monks in the Middle Ages.  The rolled dough was baked in the shape of crossed arms, resembling the form of a person in prayer with arms crossed across the chest.  They were given as rewards to children who said their prayers.  The word Pretzel is derived from the term braeehiola meaning "little arms."

      There are many customs associated with pretzels, some with religious connotations, and the pretzel is considered a symbol of good luck and good furtune.  That is why they are given and received on New Year's Day and often worn around a person's neck on that day.  there are also special pretzels that are made for certain Lenten observances, especially Palm Sunday.  April 26 is also National Pretzel Day in the U.S.  And there is even a Pretzel museum to document the history and consumption of this beloved Philadelphia icon.

     Did you know that a soft pretzel without salt on it is called a "baldy"?

Wedding Belles

     Recently I was asked how many weddings I have performed during my career.  I have not kept an actual tabulation of them all, but there have been easily over 300.  But some do stand out more clearly than others, like the one I conducted at dawn high above the countryside in a hot air balloon, or the one in a sandbox on Key West.  (There is no beach there, since the island is actually a coral reef.)

     But this past weekend was another first for me in the wedding performance category.  I had never before conducted a wedding in a barnyard with hay bales creating the altar.  It was also unique in that all the arriving guests were offered a complimentary glass of wine to sip as they witnessed the exchange of vows.  It was a very mellow crowd that greeted the new husband and wife!

     But what was even more unique was the culinary theme for the reception.  The printed dinner menu stated that the station style dining would feature "A Taste of Philadelphia" and included such local favorites as Philly Style Cheesesteak (wit or witout), Classic Crab Fries, Tastycakes, and Soft Pretzels.  You can't get any more Philly than that!  But for the more traditional wedding goers there were other items provided, like carved beef with caramelized onions and horseradish whip and roasted country potatoes.  And for the health conscious another station offered a mushroom risotto, grilled asparagus, tomato and mozzarella slices and roasted peppers over spring greens.

    Ben Franklin would have been proud!

Liberty Cabbage

     During the First & Second World Wars the local Pennsylvania German staple of sauerkraut was re-named "Liberty Cabbage" to distance itself from the Arian enemies in Europe.  The term means literally sour cabbage and is a home made concoction created without the benefit of either refrigeration or pasteurization.

    
      While readily available in markets commercially produced, sauerkraut can easily be made right at home.  Finely cut cabbage is anaerobically fermented using only the lactic acid bacteria found in the leaves themselves.  It takes only a ceramic pot (Tupperware will also do), a tight fitting wooden lid and some sort of weight on top to patiently produce the final product from a head of cabbage and some salt.  It takes about two weeks for the pickling process to work.  The end result is a low calorie (42 calories per cup), high sodium accompaniment to a variety of meats such as: corned beef, spare ribs, franks, sausage, pork, and game.  It is also a tasty companion in appetizers, dips, soups, and desserts.  By itself, sauerkraut is a "simple heat and eat" Fall favorite.  It can also be enhanced by adding herbs, chili or hot sauce, chopped meats or clams.  Another way to serve it is by including a little brown sugar or chopped apples and onions.

     And sauerkraut has a history, too.  It is known and regarded around the world in various cultures and cuisines.  It is no stranger to not only the Germans, but also the French, Chinese, Polish, Russians, and Dutch.  Captain James Cook always carried an ample supply of it on his numerous sea voyages, crediting it to the prevention of scurvy.

     Had I not other previous commitments this weekend I would be attending the 43rd Sauerkraut Festival in Waynesville, Ohio.  There they celebrate the shredded fermented cabbage and juried competitions rate it's inclusion into everything from pizza to fudge. 




Here is one recipe that I'm sure you'd like to try:

CHOCOLATE SAUERKRAUT CAKE

 

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar                       1 tsp baking soda

2/3 cup butter                                               1 tsp baking powder

3 eggs                                                              1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa

1 tsp vanilla                                                    1 cup cold water

2 1/4 cups all purpose flour                       2/3 cup sauerkraut, drained & chopped

 

     Cream the sugar and butter until thoroughly blended and smooth.  Add the eggs and vanilla and beat until fluffy.  Measure the dry ingredients.  Mix them together with a fork.  Add to the creamed mixture along with the water, and beat to blend in completely.  Stir the chopped sauerkraut into the batter.

 

     Pour the batter into two greased and floured 9" round layer cake pans, or a greased and floured 9x13" cake pan.  Bake at 350F for 25 to 30 minutes for layer pans and 35 to 40 minutes for 9X13" pan.

 

     Cover cooled cake with cream cheese frosting, using the following ingredients combined and beaten until smooth:

 

1 3 oz package cream cheese, softened                    6 Tbsp butter, softened

1 tsp vanilla                                                                   2 cups powdered sugar

1 Tbsp milk

courtesy of the University of Wisconsin-Extension, Cooperative Extension
Mary E. Mennes, professor, Food Science

Fall Comfort Food

     This morning we are experiencing the coolest start of the season as temperatures are dipping near the freezing mark.  What better way to celebrate Autumn's arrival than to plan a week of warming comfort food?  Here is my menu planner for the week ahead:

Monday

Chicken Cacciatore

Egg Noodles

Roasted Green Beans

 

Tuesday

Broiled Salmon & Lentils

Braised Brussels Sprouts

 

Wednesday

Pork and Sauerkraut

Mashed Potatoes

Creamed Spinach

 

Thursday

Kitchen Closed

Chef's Night Off

 

Friday

Grilled Flat Iron Steak

Potato Latkes

Steamed Broccoli



Creative Cookery

     Have you ever read through a recipe and discovered that you don't have all the ingredients listed?  That can certainly be vexing when you are all set to cook up something special and suddenly realize that you are missing something crucial.  So instead of getting in the car and driving to the local store, why not improvise?  Sometimes serendipitous things can occur and the end result may be even better than what you had planned.

     Such was the case recently when I decided to bake the Pork and Apple Pie that I had mentioned in a previous posting.  I actually had several recipes in front of me and each called for different ingredients: variations on a theme as it were.  But I did not have either ground pork or a pork loin that I could cube.  It would be very difficult, indeed, to bake this standard of the UK kitchen without one of the main elements.  But I did have a pork shoulder that had been defrosting in the refrigerator for a planned Carolina pulled pork dinner.  So before putting the entire shoulder in the slow cooker with the spicy vinegar based sauce, I cut off a portion and roasted it briefly and then cut it into thin strips for the pie.

     The result was a delicious dinner that combined the pork with sliced golden delicious apples.  And no one was the wiser!!!



But it's a dry heat

     Something that Arizona and roasting have in common is dry heat.  Roasting is a method of cooking in either the oven or indirectly on the grill that draws out and evaporates food's moisture.  And in so doing concentrates the flavors of the food while the exterior browns to an amazing savory coating.  So there is no need to sear before heat is applied. 

     But there is a catch.  The dry heat must cook the food without drying it out.  Often this feat is accomplished by the use of higher temperatures. So to roast foods like vegetables, small poultry, fish and tenderloins a temperature of 400-450F is recommended to cook quickly, retaining some moisture.  Roasting vegetables does draw out some of the moisture but in so doing concentrates flavors, creating a taste that is more dramatic than can be accomplished by either steaming or boiling.  A slightly lower temperature of 325-350F is used for a longer time when roasting larger pieces of meat, prime rib or whole chickens and turkeys.

     There are 2 types of browning that occurs when food is roasted:

1. Caramelization-Sugars in the food change their chemical structure.  Sucrose converts to glucose and fructose, releasing hundreds of new compounds that stimulate the taste buds.

2. Maillard Reaction-At a temperature greater than 300F meats are browned and amino acids are broken down within the protein structure and new flavor compounds are formed.

To prevent unnecessary drying of a whole roasting chicken, try this recipe that I learned in a cooking class in Tuscany a few years ago:

Pollo Arrosto al Limone

 

 

 

     1 chicken, about 3 1/2 pounds, neck and giblets removed

     2 Tbsp EVOO

     salt and freshly ground pepper

     2 small lemons

 

     Preheat the oven to 375F.  Rinse the chicken inside and out.  Pat dry with paper towels.  Rub the outside of the chicken with the olive oil, then sprinkle the skin and cavity with salt and pepper.  Stuff the cavity with the 2 whole lemons.  Tuck the wings behind the back.  Draw the drumsticks together and tie tightly with kitchen string.

 

     Lightly oil a shallow roasting pan large enough to hold the chicken comfortably.  Place the chicken, breast side up, in the pan and roast, basting occasionally with the juices, until it is deep golden brown and the juices run clear when a thigh is pierced with a sharp knife, about 1 1/4 hours.  An instant read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of a thigh away from the bone should read 170F.

 

     Transfer the chicken to a carving board and set the roasting pan aside.  Remove the lemons from the cavity and set aside.  Loosely tent the chicken with aluminum foil and let rest for 10 minutes.

 

     When the lemons are cool enough to handle, cut them in half and squeeze the juice into the roasting pan.  Discard the lemons.  Add 3 tablespoons water to the juices in the pan.  Place over high heat and cook until reduced by one-third, about 2 minutes.

 

     Remove the string, carve the chicken, and arrange on a warmed serving platter.  Pour the pan juices over the top and serve at once.

 



    

Quite a Pear

     Recently I came across a recipe that required Bosc Pears.  It was perfect timing for the European import since they are harvested in late September and into the Fall and Winter.  Originating in France and Belgium they were introduced into the United States in the early 1830s and are now grown primarily in the Northwest region of the country, in Oregon and Washington.  They are marketed under different names, including Buerre Bosc, Calabasse Bosc and Kaiser Alexander.

     Bosc pears are more firm than other varieties and have a dense flesh that makes them ideal for cooking, especially poaching, sauteing and baking.  And they pair well with cheese.  One favorite recipe of mine is to poach them in white wine and then stuff the halves with gorgonzola and honey.  And did you know that they should be eaten unpeeled?  That is because most of their vitamin C content is in the skin.

     The recipe that included the Bosc pear is reprinted below:

German Pear Pancake

 1 large firm-ripe Bosc pear                            1 tsp vanilla extract

    peeled, cored, cut into 1/8” slices              ½ tsp kosher salt

1 lemon, grated to yield ½ Tbsp                   2/3 cup all purpose flour  

     then squeezed=2 Tbsp juice                     3 Tbsp unsalted butter

4 large eggs                                                              cut into 3 slices

¾ cup whole milk                                       3-4 Tbsp confectioners’ sugar

¾ cup granulated sugar                                             Crème Fraiche (optional)

          Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 400F.

          In a medium bowl, toss the pear slices with the lemon juice and set aside.  In a large bowl, beat the eggs with an electric hand mixer on high speed until thick and frothy, about 3 minutes.  Add the mile, granulated sugar, vanilla, salt and lemon zest and mix on low speed until combined.  Sift in the flour and mix on low speed until combined (don’t worry if there are lumps).

           Heat a 12” cast iron skillet over medium heat until hot.  Add the butter and when it begins to foam, add the pear slices, quickly turning them to coat with the butter, and arranging them in a single layer, pour the batter evenly over them and transfer the skillet to the oven.  Bake until the pancake is set in the middle, the sides have risen and the bottom is nicely browned, about 20 minutes.

           Sprinkle the pancake with confectioners’ sugar.  Serve immediately.

Fine Cooking, October/November 2012, p. 61