After a long morning riding in a tour van looking at the devastation wrought by Hurricane Katrina I was hungry. After all it was past 2 pm and I had to forgo breakfast at The Chimes in order to get downtown in time for the guided tour. I had heard some of the other folks in the van mention a place called Mother's that supposedly served up a good meal so I thought I'd give it a try.
The only directions I had was that the restaurant was on the corner of Poydras & Tchoupitoulas Streets. When I turned the corner, there it was, a decidedly non-descrip edifice with not much in the way of signage to convince me that I was indeed at the correct location. So with some timidity I entered and was handed a menu to ponder. It was not a quick read as there were lots of choices for either breakfast, lunch or dinner. With an idea as to what I wanted for a mid afternoon meal I got in the cafeteria style line and waited to place my order with the cashier. She took my order, rang me up and cheerfully informed me that I could take a seat anywhere and someone would bring my meal to me. I'm not sure how they keep everyone straight with each order, but it didn't take long for my fried oyster platter to arrive with a side of red beans and rice and fries. I had chosen those two sides from among a list that also included turnip greens, cabbage, and grits. The pile of oysters was immense and they were both juicy on the inside and crisp and golden on the outside, just the way they should be. Finally I had found some good New Orleans cooking without all the pretension of my previous meals. I knew it was the real deal when at my table the only condiments were Tabasco, Crystal hot sauce, and Heinz ketchup.
Mother's has an interesting history. Founded in 1938 by Simon and Mary (Mother) Landry the working class eatery opens at 7 am each day and serves meals to longshoremen and attorneys alike from the neighboring waterfront and courthouse. It is a uniquely NOLA institution, one of only a precious few that remain. Originally their menu emphasized po'boys, red beans and rice and jambalaya. But now under the ownership of Jerry and John Amato the menu has expanded, still serving up old favorites in addition to newer bold flavors.
The quality of the food is excellent, relying on only the freshest ingredients. But the quantity of the food is mind bending. Consider that in 1 year they serve up 175,000 pounds of ham and roast beef, three quarter of a million biscuits, 90,000 pounds of jambalaya, 25,000 soft shell crabs and a full ton of hot sauce.
And the walls are covered with a plethora of autographed photos of patrons, both the famous and the infamous. All are served with the same prompt, friendly manner. Perhaps their motto best captures their culinary style. "Everyone gets fed, everyone comes back." Mother's will be on my short list the next time I'm in town.
Friday, November 30, 2012
Thursday, November 29, 2012
The Line on the Upperline
The French Quarter isn't the only place to get a good meal in New Orleans. Sunday evening I walked the tree lined streets of the uptown section and sat down for dinner at The Upperline. The restaurant is owned and operated by a grandmotherly figure, JoAnn Clevenger who patroled the rambling 1877 townhouse insuring that her patrons had all their expectations met.
It was a bit surprising to me that when I entered the Art Deco bar/dining room only 2 other tables were occupied, even though I was encouraged to make a reservation when I called an hour earlier. Another surprise was the profusion of regional art that was on display. In random order in every possible nook all manner of paintings, drawings, pottery, sculpture, posters and objects d'art festooned the dining room. The artists were purportedly well known locally, but I must confess the names meant little to me.
Likewise the menu also had a local touch, being touted as "inventive Creole cuisine." I chose one of the evening highlights, mahi-mahi swimming in a spicy bouillabaisse broth. Unfortunately, it was high on price and low on quantity. While the fish was unmistakenly present, other seafood was noticeably absent. The "French fisherman's chowder" was not what I expected, or hoped it would be. I also did not expect to be watched so intently by the wait staff as I ate my meal. They all stood by just feet away from my table in a line by the bar. At one point I thought they might burst into applause when I downed my last bite. And JoAnne also came by to make small talk about her sister who lived "just outside Philadelphia" in Kutztown. She might know New Orleans, but she certainly wasn't familiar with Pennsylvania.
Feeling like I needed something more than the demure entree I decided to order dessert, something I rarely do. But the warm Louisiana pecan pie sounded appealing and was enhanced by a scoop of vanilla ice cream. That was the highlight of my dining experience. I walked off those additional calories along the uneven sidewalks of Prytania Street as I made my way back to my comfortable sanctuary at "The Chimes" to ponder my eclectic dining experience.
It was a bit surprising to me that when I entered the Art Deco bar/dining room only 2 other tables were occupied, even though I was encouraged to make a reservation when I called an hour earlier. Another surprise was the profusion of regional art that was on display. In random order in every possible nook all manner of paintings, drawings, pottery, sculpture, posters and objects d'art festooned the dining room. The artists were purportedly well known locally, but I must confess the names meant little to me.
Likewise the menu also had a local touch, being touted as "inventive Creole cuisine." I chose one of the evening highlights, mahi-mahi swimming in a spicy bouillabaisse broth. Unfortunately, it was high on price and low on quantity. While the fish was unmistakenly present, other seafood was noticeably absent. The "French fisherman's chowder" was not what I expected, or hoped it would be. I also did not expect to be watched so intently by the wait staff as I ate my meal. They all stood by just feet away from my table in a line by the bar. At one point I thought they might burst into applause when I downed my last bite. And JoAnne also came by to make small talk about her sister who lived "just outside Philadelphia" in Kutztown. She might know New Orleans, but she certainly wasn't familiar with Pennsylvania.
Feeling like I needed something more than the demure entree I decided to order dessert, something I rarely do. But the warm Louisiana pecan pie sounded appealing and was enhanced by a scoop of vanilla ice cream. That was the highlight of my dining experience. I walked off those additional calories along the uneven sidewalks of Prytania Street as I made my way back to my comfortable sanctuary at "The Chimes" to ponder my eclectic dining experience.
Wednesday, November 28, 2012
A Pearl of a Restaurant
One of my favorite restaurants in New Orleans is Drago's in the Hilton hotel. It is owned by Drago and Klara Cvitanovich who opened it in 1969. They decided to specialize in serving seafood and by all accounts have done a successful job at it over the last half decade. Their signature dish is char broiled oysters prepared on the grill. Drizzled with butter and lemon juice they are cooked on the half shell and sprinkled with Parmesan cheese and pepper and are amazing. Over 900 dozen of these succulent bivalves are served daily.
But on my most recent visit to The Big Easy I must admit that I was a little disappointed. First, since I was dining solo, I was placed at a small table, pushed off to the side of the dining room up against a wall with no view or ambiance. My fossilized waitress gave me the printed menu and pointed out all the most expensive items on the list, attempting to steer me toward them in hopes of a larger tip. But I steadfastly ordered the oysters and a salad, to her dismay.
When they arrived I looked down at them in amazement. They were minuscule, barely larger than marbles, unlike the behemoth bivalves I had consumed 6 months earlier. I wondered if they could differ in size so greatly from one season to another. I had ordered a half dozen but could have easily downed twice that, given their size. The only thing large about my order was the price.
I'm beginning to wonder if Drago's reputation is beginning to outdistance their menu.
But on my most recent visit to The Big Easy I must admit that I was a little disappointed. First, since I was dining solo, I was placed at a small table, pushed off to the side of the dining room up against a wall with no view or ambiance. My fossilized waitress gave me the printed menu and pointed out all the most expensive items on the list, attempting to steer me toward them in hopes of a larger tip. But I steadfastly ordered the oysters and a salad, to her dismay.
When they arrived I looked down at them in amazement. They were minuscule, barely larger than marbles, unlike the behemoth bivalves I had consumed 6 months earlier. I wondered if they could differ in size so greatly from one season to another. I had ordered a half dozen but could have easily downed twice that, given their size. The only thing large about my order was the price.
I'm beginning to wonder if Drago's reputation is beginning to outdistance their menu.
Tuesday, November 27, 2012
Roll Playing
Almost every Po'boy assembled at the recent Po'boy Festival in New Orleans was made with a Leidenheimer loaf of bread. The bakery worked overtime to produce an extra 6,000 of their signature 36 inch long rolls for the event. And they had more on stand-by in delivery trucks at the scene just in case any of the vendors happened to run low.
It all began back in 1896 when German immigrant George Leidenheimer opened a bakery in The Crescent City. Now, over a century later, the bakery on Simon Bolivar Boulevard still proudly supplies bread and rolls both locally and throughout the Gulf Coast region. Their most successful product continues to be the Po'boy loaf that, unlike other french rolls, has blunt ends to ensure that every inch of the sandwich receives the same portion of meat and cheese, or whatever interesting interior is in the iconic sandwich.
The bakery is still owned and operated by the Leidenheimer family. Not long ago they commissioned local artist, Bunny Matthews, to create cartoon characters Vic and Nat'ly Broussard, the mythical owners of a NOLA po'boy shop located deep in "Da Nint' Ward." Their images are festooned on each and every one of the delivery trucks and they have become the unofficial spokes persons for the bakery advising the public to "Sink ya teeth into a piece of New Orleans cultcha-a Leidenheimer po'boy." Check out their gastronomic glossary of terms at: www.leidenheimer.com/glossary.htm
Vinny note: Are you missing the images that usually accompany my articles? So am I. Sadly I recently discovered that somehow there was a limit to the storage space for the images I have posted on-line and I had reached capacity. I am currently attempting to expand my allotted storage and once again illustrate my daily posts.
It all began back in 1896 when German immigrant George Leidenheimer opened a bakery in The Crescent City. Now, over a century later, the bakery on Simon Bolivar Boulevard still proudly supplies bread and rolls both locally and throughout the Gulf Coast region. Their most successful product continues to be the Po'boy loaf that, unlike other french rolls, has blunt ends to ensure that every inch of the sandwich receives the same portion of meat and cheese, or whatever interesting interior is in the iconic sandwich.
The bakery is still owned and operated by the Leidenheimer family. Not long ago they commissioned local artist, Bunny Matthews, to create cartoon characters Vic and Nat'ly Broussard, the mythical owners of a NOLA po'boy shop located deep in "Da Nint' Ward." Their images are festooned on each and every one of the delivery trucks and they have become the unofficial spokes persons for the bakery advising the public to "Sink ya teeth into a piece of New Orleans cultcha-a Leidenheimer po'boy." Check out their gastronomic glossary of terms at: www.leidenheimer.com/glossary.htm
Vinny note: Are you missing the images that usually accompany my articles? So am I. Sadly I recently discovered that somehow there was a limit to the storage space for the images I have posted on-line and I had reached capacity. I am currently attempting to expand my allotted storage and once again illustrate my daily posts.
Monday, November 26, 2012
The Battle of New Orleans
Having returned from my most recent culinary research I am still recovering from the crowded street scene on Oak Street in New Orleans during the Po'boy Festival held there. It has been touted as the "Best Food Festival" in the entire state of Louisiana, and for good reason. Over thirty vendors set up shop along the mile long stretch of Oak Street to vie for bragging rights for their own version of the iconic sandwich made famous by the Martin brothers. (see VinnyPost June 6 "What's in a Name?")
I rode the St. Charles Avenue street car out to Carrolton Avenue and fortunately arrived just before the start of the event at 11 am. I was then able to survey all the many variations on a theme and thus map out my strategy for judging which po'boy deserved my vote as best in category. It was a daunting challenge to contrast and compare with such a wide variety of ingredients to choose from. There were poultry, seafood, beef, pork and vegetarian po'boys on sale, along with various sides like Cajun fries, potato salad and of course red beans and rice.
Only learning about the French Canadian delicacy, Poutine, a few weeks earlier at the Minnesota State Fair, I first tried a po'boy made with the familiar ingredients of fries cooked in duck fat, cheese curds, gravy and shredded beef. I could tell that I was a long way from Quebec after one bite. But apparently few of the 50,000+ fair goers knew the difference and voted it a favorite.
Next I tried a barbecued shrimp po'boy and enjoyed the bite of the remoulade that lined the Leidenheimer roll. It gave me the impetus to move on and chow down on a sesame oyster po'boy next, which was just OK, but nothing memorable. Finally as the crowd swelled to epic proportion I waited in line for a fried soft shell crab po'boy. It was worth the trip!
There were many others I did not try, either for lack of creativity or length of line to wait for such exotic offerings as the fried lobster po'boy. That line went down the block and around the corner for a $9 sandwich. When it became impossible to walk along the street vendors without bumping into another fair goer, I decided to get back on the street car and return to my little sanctuary at "The Chimes" in the Garden District.
In the coming days I will report on more of my culinary research in The Crescent City.
I rode the St. Charles Avenue street car out to Carrolton Avenue and fortunately arrived just before the start of the event at 11 am. I was then able to survey all the many variations on a theme and thus map out my strategy for judging which po'boy deserved my vote as best in category. It was a daunting challenge to contrast and compare with such a wide variety of ingredients to choose from. There were poultry, seafood, beef, pork and vegetarian po'boys on sale, along with various sides like Cajun fries, potato salad and of course red beans and rice.
Only learning about the French Canadian delicacy, Poutine, a few weeks earlier at the Minnesota State Fair, I first tried a po'boy made with the familiar ingredients of fries cooked in duck fat, cheese curds, gravy and shredded beef. I could tell that I was a long way from Quebec after one bite. But apparently few of the 50,000+ fair goers knew the difference and voted it a favorite.
There were many others I did not try, either for lack of creativity or length of line to wait for such exotic offerings as the fried lobster po'boy. That line went down the block and around the corner for a $9 sandwich. When it became impossible to walk along the street vendors without bumping into another fair goer, I decided to get back on the street car and return to my little sanctuary at "The Chimes" in the Garden District.
In the coming days I will report on more of my culinary research in The Crescent City.
Friday, November 23, 2012
Tweaking Tradition
Of all the home cooked meals prepared and served, none is more predictable than the annual meal on Thanksgiving. Virtually every home chef roasts a turkey, mashes potatoes (white and/or sweet), serves some form of cranberry relish and prepares gravy. Then after the main course has been devoured a chorus of pies are served, with or without ice cream or the artificially manufactured cool whip. Again, the choice of pies is fairly predictable: pecan or pumpkin. It's not a good thing to fool around with tradition, especially when it focuses on food.
But this year I tweaked our holiday tradition with a new twist on a favored dessert. I decided to add a new flavor to the venerable pumpkin pie and combined two stalwarts of the palate. In addition to the pumpkin I infused some chocolate. Yes, folks, it was a chocolate pumpkin pie.
The reviews around the table were generally positive. The two flavors seemed to somehow strangely intermingle while at the same time maintaining their own distinct personality. Perhaps some medical professional specializing in taste sensations could explain how that occurs, but suffice it to say that is was a new taste encapsulated in an old favorite.
Here is the recipe. Copy it down and put it away until next Thanksgiving:
But this year I tweaked our holiday tradition with a new twist on a favored dessert. I decided to add a new flavor to the venerable pumpkin pie and combined two stalwarts of the palate. In addition to the pumpkin I infused some chocolate. Yes, folks, it was a chocolate pumpkin pie.
The reviews around the table were generally positive. The two flavors seemed to somehow strangely intermingle while at the same time maintaining their own distinct personality. Perhaps some medical professional specializing in taste sensations could explain how that occurs, but suffice it to say that is was a new taste encapsulated in an old favorite.
Here is the recipe. Copy it down and put it away until next Thanksgiving:
CHOCOLATE PUMPKIN PIE
1 cup heavy cream 1 tsp dry ginger
6 oz semi-sweet chocolate bits 1/2 tsp ground cloves
15 oz can pumpkin puree 1/2 tsp ground all spice
1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar 1/4 tsp nutmeg
1/2 tsp salt 2 eggs
In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, warm the cream until just bubbling. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate bits. Stir until completely melted and smooth.
In a medium bowl whisk together the pumpkin, brown sugar, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, all spice, nutmeg, salt and chocolate cream mixture. Add the eggs, whisking until everything is thoroughly combined.
Fit a pie crust into a 9" deep pie pan. Pour the pumpkin mixture into the crust. Bake for 50-60 minutes, or until the center is set and no longer jiggles.
Wednesday, November 21, 2012
Being Thankful
Every Sunday morning St. Augustine of Hippo Episcopal Church serves breakfast. It's not a fancy meal, just scrambled eggs, sausage links, hash browns and a biscuit with juice and coffee and canned pears. But for the nearly 100 homeless folks who arrive at 8am and walk down the steps to the basement social hall it could well be the only hot meal they receive that week.
But I was struck at the gratefulness of our guests at the table. Virtually every one of them before leaving to be on their way stopped by the kitchen door to say "Thank you!" to us, many making a point to shake our hands in gratitude. Too often we who have so much in life tend to focus on what we lack, rather than what is already ours. Yet the people who seemingly had so very little chose to be filled with thankfulness for what they had received.
So spend a moment on our national day of Thanksgiving to be grateful. And then each day following live in gratitude for the many blessings of life that are yours.
I was invited to be a part of the volunteer Faith in Action ministry team from Grace Baptist Church in Blue Bell that prepared and served one of those Sunday meals in October. We arrived at 7am, served breakfast at 8 until 9 and then quickly cleaned up and were on our way in less than an hour after the last meal was put on the table. We did very little, actually, other than spend a couple hours early on a Sunday morning.
But I was struck at the gratefulness of our guests at the table. Virtually every one of them before leaving to be on their way stopped by the kitchen door to say "Thank you!" to us, many making a point to shake our hands in gratitude. Too often we who have so much in life tend to focus on what we lack, rather than what is already ours. Yet the people who seemingly had so very little chose to be filled with thankfulness for what they had received.
So spend a moment on our national day of Thanksgiving to be grateful. And then each day following live in gratitude for the many blessings of life that are yours.
Friday, November 16, 2012
Culinary Research
Home, Home on the Range: Musings from my kitchen will be off line for a few days while I am involved in more culinary research. Please check back before you enjoy your Thanksgiving feast!
Vinny Garette
Vinny Garette
Thursday, November 15, 2012
Thank You Berry Much!
Recently I received some important information from a loyal reader. The topic was how to prevent mold from growing on the fresh fruit we bring home from the market. It reads as follows:
We eat fresh fruit every day and because we eat a little of each (Banana, Strawberries, Raspberries, Blueberries, Grapes, Cantaloups, Pineapple and Watermelon) every day the berries start to go bad quickly and end up in the garbage. Not anymore thanks to this great tip.
Berries are delicious, but they're also kind of delicate. Raspberries in particular seem like they can mold before you even get them home from the market. There's nothing more tragic than paying $4 for a pint of local raspberries, only to look in the fridge the next day and find that fuzzy mold growing on their insides.
Here's a tip on how to prevent them from getting there in the first place:
Wash them with vinegar.
When you get your berries home, prepare a mixture of one part vinegar (white or apple cider) and ten parts water. Dump the berries into the mixture and swirl around. Drain, rinse if you want, and pop in the fridge. The vinegar kills any mold spores and other bacteria that might be on the surface of the fruit, and voila! Raspberries will last a week or more, and strawberries go almost two weeks without getting moldy and soft.
So, go forth and stock up on those pricey little gems, knowing they'll stay fresh as long as it takes to eat them.
We eat fresh fruit every day and because we eat a little of each (Banana, Strawberries, Raspberries, Blueberries, Grapes, Cantaloups, Pineapple and Watermelon) every day the berries start to go bad quickly and end up in the garbage. Not anymore thanks to this great tip.
Here's a tip on how to prevent them from getting there in the first place:
Wash them with vinegar.
When you get your berries home, prepare a mixture of one part vinegar (white or apple cider) and ten parts water. Dump the berries into the mixture and swirl around. Drain, rinse if you want, and pop in the fridge. The vinegar kills any mold spores and other bacteria that might be on the surface of the fruit, and voila! Raspberries will last a week or more, and strawberries go almost two weeks without getting moldy and soft.
So, go forth and stock up on those pricey little gems, knowing they'll stay fresh as long as it takes to eat them.
Wednesday, November 14, 2012
Talking Turkey, Part III
7. Use the four-spot test for doneness. When it's time to check your turkey for doneness, the old method of pricking the thigh and looking for clear juices is not reliable. Between supermarket turkeys bred for buxom breasts and the inevitable hot spots in your oven, we urge you to take the temperature in at least four places: both thighs, as well as the thickest part of the breast on each side. Don't remove the turkey from the oven until all these places register a minimum of 165F.
8. Let the turkey rest after roasting. When the turkey comes out of the oven, it's hard to resist the urge to start carving, but resist you must. While your turkey has been roasting, the juices have been working their way toward the outer part of the roast. If you slice the turkey while it's still hot, those juices will keep up their momentum, moving right out of the bird and leaving the meat moist and dry as sawdust. Let the bird rest on a platter for 30 minutes. During that time, the juices will move back to where they belong, inside the meat. Some people like to cover the turkey with foil while it's standing, but that's only going to turn the gorgeously crisp skin flabby. Rest assured that even uncovered, the turkey will still be slightly warm after half an hour.
9. Keep turkey leftovers foil-free. When you clear the table before dessert, focus first on storing the leftovers. A turkey carcass takes up nearly as much room as an uncooked bird, so break it down now. Remove any remaining breast or thigh meat in the largest pieces possible and wrap the meat separately first in wax paper or parchment, then in plastic. Whatever you do, don't wrap the turkey in foil. The salt and iron in the bird can corrode the foil, leaving smears of aluminum on the meat.
Now that you're well armed with this essential information, relax with the confidence that you can handle this bird and enjoy the feast and festivities.
Tuesday, November 13, 2012
Talking Turkey, Part II
4. Your oven needs plenty of time to heat up. Avoid surprises and help keep your cool by making sure your oven is as hot as it should be. If you don't already have a good quality oven thermometer, now is the time to invest in one. Oven temperatures can actually vary quite a bit, as much as 50 degrees from the number on the dial. So you still need to to use an independent and reliable oven thermometer to verify the temp before you put in your turkey.
5. Don't stuff the turkey. An unstuffed turkey cooks more evenly, and faster, than a stuffed turkey, because there's air circulation within the cavity. Stuffing the bird also poses significant food-safety challenges. The major problem is that the center of the turkey--where the stuffing is soaking up all the juices--is the last place to reach the food safe temperature of 165F. That means the meat will be fully cooked before the stuffing's done, leaving the stuffing unsafe to eat, unless you roast your turkey until the center of the stuffing registers 165F, at which point the breast meat will be overdone and dry.
6. Basting is worth the fuss. Basting is the most contentious turkey topic. There are just as many detractors as there are proponents. Basting does make the skin glossy and crisp, but every time you open the oven door, the temperature drops. But the overall benefits are worth it, and another plus: Rotating the pan 180 degrees each time you baste will help the turkey cook evenly. The practice of periodically spooning pan juices over the turkey has nothing to do with helping the breast meat stay juicy. It's all about getting crisper skin.
Monday, November 12, 2012
Let's Talk Turkey
With Thanksgiving only a few days away we need to talk turkey. I mean, really...let's get to the truth about Thanksgiving turkey roasting. Gourmet Live has put on-line nine myth-busting tips for us to enable those assigned the important job of cooking the most important meal of the year. For the next several days I will highlight Kemp Minifie's report. So today I begin with the first 3. And they are:
1. Consider deconstructing your turkey. If presenting the traditional entire turkey on a platter is part of your holiday ritual--and the meal is unthinkable without it--then keep on doing it. But if moist breast meat and perfectly cooked dark meat is more important to you than that brief tabletop cameo of the whole bird, then roast your turkey in parts, the white meat separately from the dark meat. Buy just the parts you like. Divide the white meat and dark parts into their own pans and roast on different racks. This allows you to remove the breast meat when it's done and let the legs cook longer. The breast meat is moist at 165F, but the dark meat is better when cooked to a minimum of 170F.
2. Don't wash the turkey. This directive will probably shock you. And it holds true for chicken, too. This advice comes from the super-cautious folks at the USDA. And here's why: The moment you run water on your poultry, you start spewing a mist of unwanted pathogens all over the sink and nearby items. The easiest and most effective way to eliminate bacteria is to kill them in the heat of the oven. Then, after the bird is in the roasting pan, dry it inside and out with paper towels. And don't forget to wash every surface the turkey and its juices might have touched. Use hot soapy water, and it doesn't hurt to follow up with disinfectant.
3. Brining is strictly optional. Brining the turkey was all the rage a while ago, and it still has a devoted following for those who have the space and a container large enough to immerse the turkey completely. Another option is to inject the brine directly into the flesh. Or, you might consider dry brining, which involves rubbing the turkey with liberal amounts of kosher salt and letting the bird air-dry in the refrigerator uncovered on a rack or shallow pan for at least eight hours and up to two days. But if you want to enjoy the benefits of brining without any of the fuss, buy a kosher turkey. It's been salted ahead of time as a part of the kosher process.
More tomorrow...
Friday, November 9, 2012
A Bygone Era
Last night's meal was my first attempt at Moroccan cuisine. With all modesty I have to admit that it was a huge success. I'm ready to feed the next caravan out of Marrakesh! But it was not without it's problems in preparation. First I needed to allocate some lamb chops. And that wasn't easy. In those halcyon days of my youth there was at least one butcher shop in every town, even the small ones like North Wales. In fact, at our humble abode the butcher actually came to us. It was Herman Metz with his butcher shop on wheels. Once a week he would stop at the curb in front of our house and deliver the freshest cuts of meat on the planet. My mother would step into his truck with her written list and watch as the pork chops and steaks and roasts were cut to order.
Come to think of it, that wasn't the only food delivery on our street. Beside the milk and bread left between the doors in the pre-dawn hours, there was also fresh fruit and vegetables from Mickey Marchese and Frank Robison, and eggs fresh from the farm of Mr. Bechtel in Souderton. It seemed like the world came to our door in those days. My father's life insurance premium was also paid quarterly when the agent made his rounds and every other week Mr. Maag would stop by to collect for the home delivery of the newspaper. The sheets and towels were cleaned and pressed and delivered from the laundry in Lansdale. Even Dr. Anders came to the house to diagnosis my chicken pox. No wonder my mother never bothered to get a driver's license. She didn't need one.
But somehow all that changed in the intervening years. No longer could we enjoy home delivery of many of the necessities of life. We then had to go to each specialty store to supply our needs. Fortunately there were places like Frank Molettiere's small butcher shop in town, or the Tri-County Egg Producers Cooperative Association over in Center Point where a sweet young thing named Sandy answered the phone and waited on customers. There was also the tiny Bennett's Market just behind the Corner Hardware Store by the only traffic light in the borough where Bill and his son kept the shelves and cooler cases stocked.
But back to my lament concerning the lamb chops...Last week I did notice that the cavernous Whole Foods store in Plymouth Meeting did carry them, at an exorbitant price of $19.99/lb. So I sought a more attractive (and less costly) alternative. There was still an outdated Yellow Pages phone directory upstairs so I looked up "Butchers" and to my dismay, found none. So consulting the index discovered they were listed under "Meat-Retail" and read down the very short list. The first half dozen I tried to call met with a variety of defeats, from disconnected numbers, to automated answering machines, to "please leave a message" requests. Finally in desperation I called one more name on the list, over in Plymouth Meeting about a mile from the Whole Foods mega mart. Yes, they did have lamb chops! "I'll be right over!" I responded with relief in my voice. And at Carl Venezia's butcher shop on Germantown Pike I was able to purchase chops cut to order, just like in the days of yore, and at a reasonable price, too.
So I drove home pleased with my success, but also asking myself, "So this is progress?" Where has the sense of community gone? It seems we are becoming more and more isolated as we become even more crowded together. I fear we are losing our individual identity as we are more homogenized. These are some really deep thoughts that a couple of lamb chops have provoked.
Come to think of it, that wasn't the only food delivery on our street. Beside the milk and bread left between the doors in the pre-dawn hours, there was also fresh fruit and vegetables from Mickey Marchese and Frank Robison, and eggs fresh from the farm of Mr. Bechtel in Souderton. It seemed like the world came to our door in those days. My father's life insurance premium was also paid quarterly when the agent made his rounds and every other week Mr. Maag would stop by to collect for the home delivery of the newspaper. The sheets and towels were cleaned and pressed and delivered from the laundry in Lansdale. Even Dr. Anders came to the house to diagnosis my chicken pox. No wonder my mother never bothered to get a driver's license. She didn't need one.
But somehow all that changed in the intervening years. No longer could we enjoy home delivery of many of the necessities of life. We then had to go to each specialty store to supply our needs. Fortunately there were places like Frank Molettiere's small butcher shop in town, or the Tri-County Egg Producers Cooperative Association over in Center Point where a sweet young thing named Sandy answered the phone and waited on customers. There was also the tiny Bennett's Market just behind the Corner Hardware Store by the only traffic light in the borough where Bill and his son kept the shelves and cooler cases stocked.
But back to my lament concerning the lamb chops...Last week I did notice that the cavernous Whole Foods store in Plymouth Meeting did carry them, at an exorbitant price of $19.99/lb. So I sought a more attractive (and less costly) alternative. There was still an outdated Yellow Pages phone directory upstairs so I looked up "Butchers" and to my dismay, found none. So consulting the index discovered they were listed under "Meat-Retail" and read down the very short list. The first half dozen I tried to call met with a variety of defeats, from disconnected numbers, to automated answering machines, to "please leave a message" requests. Finally in desperation I called one more name on the list, over in Plymouth Meeting about a mile from the Whole Foods mega mart. Yes, they did have lamb chops! "I'll be right over!" I responded with relief in my voice. And at Carl Venezia's butcher shop on Germantown Pike I was able to purchase chops cut to order, just like in the days of yore, and at a reasonable price, too.
So I drove home pleased with my success, but also asking myself, "So this is progress?" Where has the sense of community gone? It seems we are becoming more and more isolated as we become even more crowded together. I fear we are losing our individual identity as we are more homogenized. These are some really deep thoughts that a couple of lamb chops have provoked.
Thursday, November 8, 2012
Still Not Getting It?
The title of today's posting is the cover story from a recent Nutrition Action newsletter. It lists 10 important messages that don't seem to stick. There are several reasons why, according to author Bonnie Liebman. She says that "maybe that's because we haven't heard them enough or because they're controversial... Maybe it's because there's only so much you can think about when you're deciding what to have for lunch."
Here are the 10 things that many of us have heard before, yet they just don't seem to sink in:
1. Extra weight increases the risk of cancer. "...the ideal thing is not to gain (weight) in the first place." so says Marjorie McCullough, strategic director of nutritional epidemiology at the American Cancer Society. "But if you're already overweight, it's still worth trying to lose. Even if you repeatedly lose and regain the weight, your risk of dying of cancer, heart disease, or other illness is no higher than that of someone who started at the same weight."
2. Subtle cues can make you eat more (or less). Brian Wansink of Cornell University found that all sorts of below-the-radar cues influence how much we eat. For example, people tend to consume more from larger plates and bowls and when food is visible and within reach.
3. We're eating too many grains. Calories from grains (wheat, corn,oats, rice) has increased by 45% since 1970. That's because we are eating more bread, pasta, tortillas, crackers, pizza crust, pretzels and pastries, mostly all containing refined flour which creates an imbalance in our diets.
4. Animal protein can help, not hurt, bones. It is true that consuming animal protein tends to leach calcium from the bones. But with a higher protein intake there's also a higher absorption of calcium, thus strengthening bones. The results of a year long study in Framingham, MA documented that the group receiving high protein meals lost less bone from the hip, spine and wrist, reducing the risk of fractures.
5. Eating 3,500 fewer calories doesn't mean you'll lose a pound. The general rule of thumb is that there are 3,500 calories in a pound. So cutting out 500 calories a day from your diet should bring a 1 pound weight loss in a week. But, in fact, the body starts burning fewer calories as the weight comes off. As the body's metabolic rate drops it attempts to burn fewer calories. Weight loss will plateau as the body adjusts to being fed less with fewer calories.
6. We don't eat enough potassium. The recommended daily allowance of potassium is 4,700 milligrams. The average American gets roughly half that. It is vital for healthy blood pressure levels and for more elasticity of the heart muscle and blood vessels. And the best way to increase potassium intake is to increase the consumption of fruits and vegetables.
7. Don't expect vitamins to prevent cancer. A simple fact to keep in mind is this: when you see claims that a vitamin "maintains a healthy prostate" or "supports breast health," what it really means is there's no good evidence that the vitamin lowers the risk of prostate or breast cancer.
8. Omega-6 fats don't cause inflammation. It can be confusing as to just what omega fats we should be consuming. It has been stated that omega-6 is harmful while omega-3 is beneficial. It is more important to include the omega-3 fatty acids found in salmon than it is to eliminate omega-6 foods contained in mixed vegetable oils.
9. You need to cut calories as you get older. Our bodies change with age in ways that reduce caloric needs. Resting metabolism starts to drop appreciably during our 5th decade. Muscle mass is replaced by fat, which burns fewer calories.
(read *big sigh* here from Vinny)
10. Magnesium may lower your risk of diabetes. Eating more magnesium-rich foods like leafy greens, beans, whole grains, nuts and wheat bran helps to avoid type 2 diabetes, in concert with daily exercise, weight loss and limiting sweets. On average, our daily intake of this vital nutrient is woefully lacking.
Here are the 10 things that many of us have heard before, yet they just don't seem to sink in:
1. Extra weight increases the risk of cancer. "...the ideal thing is not to gain (weight) in the first place." so says Marjorie McCullough, strategic director of nutritional epidemiology at the American Cancer Society. "But if you're already overweight, it's still worth trying to lose. Even if you repeatedly lose and regain the weight, your risk of dying of cancer, heart disease, or other illness is no higher than that of someone who started at the same weight."
2. Subtle cues can make you eat more (or less). Brian Wansink of Cornell University found that all sorts of below-the-radar cues influence how much we eat. For example, people tend to consume more from larger plates and bowls and when food is visible and within reach.
3. We're eating too many grains. Calories from grains (wheat, corn,oats, rice) has increased by 45% since 1970. That's because we are eating more bread, pasta, tortillas, crackers, pizza crust, pretzels and pastries, mostly all containing refined flour which creates an imbalance in our diets.
4. Animal protein can help, not hurt, bones. It is true that consuming animal protein tends to leach calcium from the bones. But with a higher protein intake there's also a higher absorption of calcium, thus strengthening bones. The results of a year long study in Framingham, MA documented that the group receiving high protein meals lost less bone from the hip, spine and wrist, reducing the risk of fractures.
5. Eating 3,500 fewer calories doesn't mean you'll lose a pound. The general rule of thumb is that there are 3,500 calories in a pound. So cutting out 500 calories a day from your diet should bring a 1 pound weight loss in a week. But, in fact, the body starts burning fewer calories as the weight comes off. As the body's metabolic rate drops it attempts to burn fewer calories. Weight loss will plateau as the body adjusts to being fed less with fewer calories.
6. We don't eat enough potassium. The recommended daily allowance of potassium is 4,700 milligrams. The average American gets roughly half that. It is vital for healthy blood pressure levels and for more elasticity of the heart muscle and blood vessels. And the best way to increase potassium intake is to increase the consumption of fruits and vegetables.
7. Don't expect vitamins to prevent cancer. A simple fact to keep in mind is this: when you see claims that a vitamin "maintains a healthy prostate" or "supports breast health," what it really means is there's no good evidence that the vitamin lowers the risk of prostate or breast cancer.
8. Omega-6 fats don't cause inflammation. It can be confusing as to just what omega fats we should be consuming. It has been stated that omega-6 is harmful while omega-3 is beneficial. It is more important to include the omega-3 fatty acids found in salmon than it is to eliminate omega-6 foods contained in mixed vegetable oils.
9. You need to cut calories as you get older. Our bodies change with age in ways that reduce caloric needs. Resting metabolism starts to drop appreciably during our 5th decade. Muscle mass is replaced by fat, which burns fewer calories.
(read *big sigh* here from Vinny)
10. Magnesium may lower your risk of diabetes. Eating more magnesium-rich foods like leafy greens, beans, whole grains, nuts and wheat bran helps to avoid type 2 diabetes, in concert with daily exercise, weight loss and limiting sweets. On average, our daily intake of this vital nutrient is woefully lacking.
Wednesday, November 7, 2012
A Toss Up
Each Fall in the tiny village of Ramsbottom, England a good natured rivalry is perpetuated between Lancashire and Yorkshire. It is the World Black Pudding Throwing Championship. In 2011 I had the privilege of participating in the competition that acknowledges an ancient grudge dating back to the War of the Roses when the opposing armies ran out of ammunition and resorted to throwing food at each other.
On the second Sunday in September each year a plank (plinth if you are British) is set up 20 feet in the air from a scaffold and Yorkshire puddings are piled on it a dozen high. Then, for a mere pound, each participating member of the citizenry is given 3 black puddings and encouraged to knock as many of the rival's puddings down as they can.
A tally of the most knocked from the plank is chronicled on a blackboard on the wall of the Royal Oak Tavern on Bridge Street where the competition is held.
So what exactly is black pudding? Stop reading now if you are squeamish. It is a type of sausage made by cooking blood with a filler until it is thick enough to congeal when cooled. In the Lancashire region of England it primarily consists of pig's blood and oatmeal and is considered a delicacy, served sliced, fried or grilled as a part of a traditional full breakfast in the UK. And yes, I did try some. It was a free sample offered me at the event, a fund raiser for a local hospice organization. Let me say that it is certainly an acquired taste. But then again, so is scrapple.
A tally of the most knocked from the plank is chronicled on a blackboard on the wall of the Royal Oak Tavern on Bridge Street where the competition is held.
Tuesday, November 6, 2012
Cross Training
Back when I was in high school, just after the Civil War, cross training sneakers had not yet been developed. We had separate footwear for each sport. In the Fall it was a Converse cross country sneaker, a elfish looking canvas shoe that we wore. In the Winter Chuck Taylor sneakers were the footwear of choice for basketball players. And in the Spring baseball team members all had cleats on their shoes. A special shoe for a specialized function. Then everything changed. Cross training athletic footwear came into being for athletes and wanna-be athletes alike. It was a one shoe fits all events phenomenon.
The same seems to hold true today in the world of what Alton Brown of the popular Food Network program Good Eats calls "mega marts," the large, often franchised, grocery stores throughout the country. Not only do they sell produce and packaged and canned goods, but also provide take home meals and even have buffets for eat in convenience for individuals and families on the run.
Recently during Hurricane Sandy I frequented 3 of these grocery store buffets, being semi-homeless and without the ability to cook a hot meal. While each did provide warmth, light and a place to recharge electronic devices, the quality of the meals offered varied greatly. The first night I dined at a local market that advertises their nightly buffet and purchased the "all you can eat" option on Senior Citizen Discount Day. My take on it? It was expensive, even with the 5% discount and the choice of food disappointingly limited. Buffets, by their nature serve up food that is usually cold and dry and that well describes the meal I reluctantly ate. The accompanying salad bar was also slim in its offerings and the desserts almost non-existent. Perhaps the only redeeming quality about the buffet at Henning's was the soup. It at least was warming and hearty. I could not say the same for the rest of their dinner menu.
The following evening on the recommendation of a friend, decided to try the buffet at a local grocery chain, Shop-Rite. I had heard that they had a good Oriental buffet and went there to a new store with high expectations. The dining area was bright and warm and even had a large flat screen TV hanging on the wall where I could catch up with the misery of others displaced by the storm. The food, however, did little to lift my spirits. It consisted of mostly fried chicken and pork served with a syrupy goo of vegetables. I'm not sure when the rice had been cooked but if there had been a "sell by" date on it, I know it would have been expired. Unlike the first night's meal this one was sold by the pound and was only a little less expensive.
The final night of my buffet caravan was spent at the cavernous Whole Foods store in Plymouth Meeting. Their buffet area is larger than some entire grocery stores. They provide a wide variety of options with about a dozen soups, vegan & salad stations, and meat, sides and veggies all kept at the appropriate temperature. And just off to the side a station to make to order sandwiches with the bread and rolls baked on site, along with lots of pastry desserts. There was so much available that I had to do an initial reconnaissance of the area before making my selection. The downside? The seating area is very institutional, reminiscent of a high school cafeteria. And the cost was again by the pound and was the most expensive of the three "cross training" market/restaurants.
In evaluating my experience I would say that cross training dining is just a step above a Wendy's, McDonald's or Burger King it and costs more, too. Just like those old sneakers that did one job and did it well, I think for my money next time I will look for a bonafide restaurant that doesn't sell groceries on the side.
The same seems to hold true today in the world of what Alton Brown of the popular Food Network program Good Eats calls "mega marts," the large, often franchised, grocery stores throughout the country. Not only do they sell produce and packaged and canned goods, but also provide take home meals and even have buffets for eat in convenience for individuals and families on the run.
Recently during Hurricane Sandy I frequented 3 of these grocery store buffets, being semi-homeless and without the ability to cook a hot meal. While each did provide warmth, light and a place to recharge electronic devices, the quality of the meals offered varied greatly. The first night I dined at a local market that advertises their nightly buffet and purchased the "all you can eat" option on Senior Citizen Discount Day. My take on it? It was expensive, even with the 5% discount and the choice of food disappointingly limited. Buffets, by their nature serve up food that is usually cold and dry and that well describes the meal I reluctantly ate. The accompanying salad bar was also slim in its offerings and the desserts almost non-existent. Perhaps the only redeeming quality about the buffet at Henning's was the soup. It at least was warming and hearty. I could not say the same for the rest of their dinner menu.
The following evening on the recommendation of a friend, decided to try the buffet at a local grocery chain, Shop-Rite. I had heard that they had a good Oriental buffet and went there to a new store with high expectations. The dining area was bright and warm and even had a large flat screen TV hanging on the wall where I could catch up with the misery of others displaced by the storm. The food, however, did little to lift my spirits. It consisted of mostly fried chicken and pork served with a syrupy goo of vegetables. I'm not sure when the rice had been cooked but if there had been a "sell by" date on it, I know it would have been expired. Unlike the first night's meal this one was sold by the pound and was only a little less expensive.
The final night of my buffet caravan was spent at the cavernous Whole Foods store in Plymouth Meeting. Their buffet area is larger than some entire grocery stores. They provide a wide variety of options with about a dozen soups, vegan & salad stations, and meat, sides and veggies all kept at the appropriate temperature. And just off to the side a station to make to order sandwiches with the bread and rolls baked on site, along with lots of pastry desserts. There was so much available that I had to do an initial reconnaissance of the area before making my selection. The downside? The seating area is very institutional, reminiscent of a high school cafeteria. And the cost was again by the pound and was the most expensive of the three "cross training" market/restaurants.
In evaluating my experience I would say that cross training dining is just a step above a Wendy's, McDonald's or Burger King it and costs more, too. Just like those old sneakers that did one job and did it well, I think for my money next time I will look for a bonafide restaurant that doesn't sell groceries on the side.
Monday, November 5, 2012
Pimeton
Smoked paprika, one of the types mentioned in the recipe, is principally imported from Spain where it is better known as pimenton de la Vera. It's made from capsicum annuum peppers that are smoked over oak and then ground in a stone mill.
Gee, that's just what I intend to do!
Friday, November 2, 2012
The Eye of the Storm
Editor's Note: Due to the massive hurricane that battered our area, power has been off for the past several days and thus Vinny has been unable to provide any postings on this website. I am happy to now resume my weekday reports, starting today.
Much if not all of the east coast of the United States nervously awaited what was being dubbed "The Storm of the Century" to come ashore. Indications of a major weather event had been in the news for nearly a week beforehand and with each passing hour the news was becoming even more dire. Local authorities were warning residents to prepare for severe conditions with heavy rain and high winds.
In our own community emergency organizations were getting themselves prepared by reviewing procedures and checking the readiness of their equipment. Crews were being scheduled to staff centers around the clock for the duration of "Frankenstorm." This included the members of the North Penn Volunteer Fire Company in North Wales, the little borough where I was raised and where I am still a member. Knowing that my days of riding the tailboard of a fire truck are long past (they don't even do that anymore) I decided to provide another valuable service. I offered to feed the crews who were standing by in the station to respond to any emergency that might arise. Under normal conditions the fire fighters and EMT personnel respond from home in an emergency, but with the storm of this magnitude it might not be possible to get to the firehouse, hence the round the clock staffing of those willing and able to stay there.
With the blessing and encouragement of Fire Chief Chris Park I put together a grocery list and also sought donations of food and supplies that could feed 20-30 people a day for at least 3 days. So by Sunday afternoon the shelves were well stocked with purchased food and gracious donations from Alice Bakery and Confectionary just a few doors down and I began to literally cook up a storm.
I must admit it was the first time I had ever made 10 gallons of chili at one time. So with lots of ground beef, onions, tomato sauce, kidney beans and garlic, and a very large pot along with some various spices that I found in the kitchen I donned my chef's cloak and got to work. It turned out that I was sharing the kitchen with a caterer who had brought in enough food to feed a christening party of 150 in the upstairs social hall. But with the threat of the storm looming in every one's minds many had rethought their decision to attend and only 50 showed up. Learning of our plan to stay in the firehouse 24/7 until the storm had passed we were also the recipients of some simmering meatballs and 2 pans of unbaked ziti and sausage in cheese sauce.
It has been said that an army travels on their stomach and the same holds true for an organization like the fire company. So the troops were well fed and ready at a moment's notice to put their experience and training to the test. For two days I cooked and baked and put smiles on the faces of those awaiting the storm's fury. While some might consider this a daunting task, for me it was pure joy. No one left our make shift dining area hungry. The menu included my now famous chili, meatball sandwiches, ziti with sausage, and some pretty tasty white bean and kale soup, along with my testosterone pumping Man Cookies mentioned in a previous posting.
Now 4 days post Hurricane Sandy the wrath of the storm is still very visible around town and some are still awaiting the return of power to their homes and businesses. But the meals served at the firehouse still brings a smile to the faces of those first responders and to the chef, too.
Much if not all of the east coast of the United States nervously awaited what was being dubbed "The Storm of the Century" to come ashore. Indications of a major weather event had been in the news for nearly a week beforehand and with each passing hour the news was becoming even more dire. Local authorities were warning residents to prepare for severe conditions with heavy rain and high winds.
In our own community emergency organizations were getting themselves prepared by reviewing procedures and checking the readiness of their equipment. Crews were being scheduled to staff centers around the clock for the duration of "Frankenstorm." This included the members of the North Penn Volunteer Fire Company in North Wales, the little borough where I was raised and where I am still a member. Knowing that my days of riding the tailboard of a fire truck are long past (they don't even do that anymore) I decided to provide another valuable service. I offered to feed the crews who were standing by in the station to respond to any emergency that might arise. Under normal conditions the fire fighters and EMT personnel respond from home in an emergency, but with the storm of this magnitude it might not be possible to get to the firehouse, hence the round the clock staffing of those willing and able to stay there.
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