The Line on the Upperline

     The French Quarter isn't the only place to get a good meal in New Orleans.  Sunday evening I walked the tree lined streets of the uptown section and sat down for dinner at The Upperline.  The restaurant is owned and operated by a grandmotherly figure, JoAnn Clevenger who patroled the rambling 1877 townhouse insuring that her patrons had all their expectations met. 

     It was a bit surprising to me that when I entered the Art Deco bar/dining room only 2 other tables were occupied, even though I was encouraged to make a reservation when I called an hour earlier.  Another surprise was the profusion of regional art that was on display.  In random order in every possible nook all manner of paintings, drawings, pottery, sculpture, posters and objects d'art festooned the dining room.  The artists were purportedly well known locally, but I must confess the names meant little to me.

     Likewise the menu also had a local touch, being touted as "inventive Creole cuisine."  I chose one of the evening highlights, mahi-mahi swimming in a spicy bouillabaisse broth.  Unfortunately, it was high on price and low on quantity.  While the fish was unmistakenly present, other seafood was noticeably absent.  The "French fisherman's chowder" was not what I expected, or hoped it would be.  I also did not expect to be watched so intently by the wait staff as I ate my meal.  They all stood by just feet away from my table in a line by the bar.  At one point I thought they might burst into applause when I downed my last bite.  And JoAnne also came by to make small talk about her sister who lived "just outside Philadelphia" in Kutztown.  She might know New Orleans, but she certainly wasn't familiar with Pennsylvania.

     Feeling like I needed something more than the demure entree I decided to order dessert, something I rarely do.  But the warm Louisiana pecan pie sounded appealing and was enhanced by a scoop of vanilla ice cream.  That was the highlight of my dining experience.  I walked off  those additional calories along the uneven sidewalks of Prytania Street as I made my way back to my comfortable sanctuary at "The Chimes" to ponder my eclectic dining experience.