Humble Beginnings

     As I learn more about the culinary arts I am intrigued with the similarities in different cultural cooking techniques around the world.  One prime example is the way fried dough is prepared and enjoyed in almost every culture.  From funnel cakes at country fairs to Egyptian aish balladi, a whole wheat flat bread.

  Another is the topic for today the vegetable base that is the foundation for hundreds of dishes around the world, from soups to curries to roasts.  Aromatics lend flavor then virtually disappear.  Michael Pollen in his book Cooked refers to them as "unprepossessing herbs and vegetables."  They can include onions, carrots, garlic, tomato, celery, bell peppers, bay leaves, peppercorns, mushrooms, shallots, leeks, and celeriac that are all finely diced and are then sauteed lightly in either butter or olive oil.

Here's just a partial list of these Humble Beginnings:

Italy-Soffritto (or Battuto)
France-Mirepoix (or Duxelles)
Portugal-Refogado
Germany-Suppegrun
 Cajun-Holy Trinity
Spain-sofrito
Poland-Wloszczyzna
Puerto Rico-Recaito

All Clad Metalcrafters in Canonsburg, PA offers this recipe for their version of Spanish sofrito:



Sofrito

The sofrito can be used as a base for sauces, stews, soups, pastas, and grains.  

Yields about 3 cups.

Ingredients

2 lbs, (about 10) Roma tomatoes

1 1/2 cups extra-virgin olive oil (EVOO)

4 1/2 cups onions, finely diced

1 clove garlic, very finely minced

1 bay leaf

Kosher salt

Fill an All-Clad 4 quart sauce pot with water and bring to a rapid boil.  While the water is heating, use a paring knife to cut out the stem from each of the tomatoes and score an "X" through the skin on the opposite end.  Fill a large bowl with ice water.  Plunge the tomatoes in the boiling water for about 5 seconds or until the skin begins to slip off the tomatoes.

1. Use a slotted spoon or skimmer to transfer the tomatoes to the bowl of ice water.  When the tomatoes have chilled, remove them from the water.  Discard the boiling water and ice bath.

     Cut the tomatoes in half.  Place a strainer over a mixing bowl and squeeze all of the seeds out of the tomatoes and into the strainer.  Press all of the liquid from the seeds, then discard the pulp.  Chop the peeled and seeded tomatoes very finely, combine with the juice, then set aside.

     Wipe the 4 quart sauce pot dry, then place the pan over medium-low heat.

2. Add the olive oil, followed by the onions and 1 tsp salt.  Cook the onions slowly, stirring occasionally, until they reduce in volume and become golden brown.  Add the garlic and cook for a few more minutes.  Add the tomatoes and their juice, the bay leaf, and 1 tsp salt.

3. Cook the tomatoes down until all of the excess liquid has reduced and the tomatoes just begin to fry in the oil.  Season to taste with salt, Discard the bay leaf.

     Store the sofrito refrigerated for up to a week.  To use the sofrito, pour off and reserve the olive oil covering the surface.  Spoon out the desired quantity of sofrito, then cover with the reserved oil.