Field of Flowers

     Until about 1400 years ago Campo de' Fiori was just that, a field of flowers.  Once a vegetable and flower garden it is now one of Rome's most famous open air markets, just a short walk from my apartment overlooking the Piazza Navona.

     So on one morning in a soft rain I made the early morning trip to check it out.  Open every day except Sunday it is a plethora of color with stalls bursting with fresh fruits and vegetables, spices, oils,  pasta and of course, flowers!

 

     But amid all the vendors there stands a reminder of a dark past.  Overlooking the square is a statue of Dominican Friar Bruno Giordano.  Philosopher, mathematician and astronomer, he was burnt alive on the square in 1600 for heresy.  His crime?  Advocating the Copernican theory that the sun, not the earth, was the center of the solar system.  The square in addition to being the location for public executions was also at one time a horse market twice a week on Mondays and Saturdays.



     Surrounding the market area are many small shops and markets.  At one end is La Terrina,  the fountain known to locals as "The Fishbowl."  And at the other end is the historic Taverna della Vacca, literally The Cow's Inn.

     By mid afternoon the vendors have gone and the square changes complexion, becoming a place for impromptu soccer matches. But by nightfall it is a notorious night spot frequented by drunken tourists and local rabble.