Educated Meal

     Recently I have renewed my acquaintance with a favorite side dish, Harvard Beets.  They are a favorite of mine, the sugar & vinegar mixture that elicits a sweet and sour flavor, with a hint of cloves and smoothed with a dab of butter.  It is one of life's culinary delights.



     But the name has always mystified me.  So I did some research, and as with many food terms, the history is not conclusive as to the origin of the side dish.  Two anecdotes prevail.  One story has it that they were served 3 centuries ago in an English tavern named Harwood's and that a Russian emigre who worked there eventually made his way to America and opened his own restaurant in Boston and called the dish "Harwood Beets" in honor of his former place of employment.  But with his accent it sounded more like "Harvard Beets" to the locals, and subsequently the name stuck.  A more colorful account states that the color of the beets mimicked the crimson football jerseys of the Harvard football team and so the nickname.

     Either way they are a wonderful and colorful addition to any dinner table.  Here is the recipe you can follow if you click on the highlighted word.

Down by the Bay

     Last Sunday I drove through the Pine Barrens of New Jersey to the small shore community of Tuckerton.  Located on Main Street is the Tuckerton Seaport Museum, an interesting collection of  17 historic and recreated buildings on 40 acres of land, a working maritime village on the Tuckerton Creek that flows into Barnegat Bay.  With the intent to preserve the history and heritage of the baymen visitors can learn about boat building, watch decoy carving and appreciate the work of commercial fishermen.  The Museum complex is also home to the Jersey Shore Folklife Center and the New Jersey Surf Museum.

     But what I really went there for was to enjoy the Bayman's Seafood & Music Festival, just one of the many events hosted by the TSM.  It was June's monthly attraction that invites people to walk the grounds and see what they are all about.  Throughout the year the TSM hosts events like a Bluegrass & Barbeque Festival, a classic boat show and a two day lighthouse challenge where participants climb every lighthouse in the state.

     I made my way past all the vendors, selling everything from flavored olive oil, to pet breed door mats, to insurance, and investment strategies, and found the "big top" tent that provided seating for patrons who had just purchased any one of a number of freshly cooked seafood specialties.  Steamed clams, shrimp, scallops, crab cakes and fish and chips were all on sale at bargain prices.  For a mere $10 I walked away with a hot off the grill crab cake sandwich and a basket of french fries.  Later I went back to pick up a net bag filled with a dozen steamed clams for half that.  The food was all prepared by TSM volunteers and cheerfully served to the waiting crowd. 

     As I ate my seafood delights I listened to the band that had taken the stage under the tent.  They played so loudly that the further away I got, the better they sounded.  Finally by the time I got out to the parking lot their music was almost enjoyable.

     But what I found most interesting about the local seafood festival was all the food being sold out of a mega-food truck trailer that had been hauled up from Maryland.  The menu was five times as long and went to great lengths to emphasize that everything was from the Eastern Shore of Maryland, not the Barnegat Bay!!!  So much for the carbon footprint...

    

Manhattan, New Mexico

 

     Ever since I attended the Great Chowder Cook-Off in Newport, RI earlier this month I have felt a new found freedom with my cooking.  While sampling all the different chowders there I realized more latitude with recipes than I have ever witnessed before.  So now back home I am more willing to experiment by combining flavors.

     So when I found a recipe for a Santa Fe Clam Chowder I was intrigued as I looked over the list of ingredients and wondered how the tomato based Manhattan style chowder would fare with some decidedly southwest inclusions.  The result was an interesting combination of two familiar tastes and the recipe is definitely a "keeper."
    
     Al Novack, my official soup taste tester gave the soup an A rating.  He termed it "Mexicanna Manhattan" and described it this way, "...it was tangy, it had a kick and it had a taste that kept me coming back for more until the bowl was empty."

     Here is the recipe for you to try:

Santa Fe Clam Chowder

 

2 Tbsp EVOO                                                     1 tsp dried oregano

4 oz Spanish chorizo, cut into 1/3" dice       1 tsp dried ground cumin

12 oz potatoes, cut into 1/2" dice                   1 cup canned crushed tomatoes with puree

1 medium onion, chopped                               1 cup frozen corn kernels

1 celery stalk, chopped                                      3-8 oz bottles clam juice

1/3 cup diced green chilies                             24 little neck clams, scrubbed

1 lg jalapeno chili, seeded & chopped           6 Tbsp chopped fresh cilantro

 

     Heat oil in heavy large pot over medium-high heat.  Add chorizo; saute until fat is rendered.  Add next 6 ingredients; saute until onion begins to soften.  Mix in oregano and cumin, then tomatoes, corn and bottled clam juice.  Bring to a boil.  Reduce heat to medium-low.  Cover and simmer until potatoes are almost tender.

 

     Add clams to mixture in pot; cover and cook over medium-high heat until clams open and potatoes are tender.  Mix in 4 Tbsp cilantro.  Season with salt and pepper.  Divide clams among 6 shallow soup bowls.  Ladle chowder over.  Sprinkle with remaining cilantro and serve.

 

serves 6

 

recipe from Bon Appetit. March 2002

 

Vinny note:  As a substitute for fresh clams I used a combination of canned minced clams, canned whole baby clams and smoked clams.  I added them to the chowder just as the potatoes were tender and removed the pot from the stove.

     

The Sneaky Fiber

    If you see ice cream, brownies and other packaged foods that contain surprisingly high amounts of fiber (like a chewy granola bar with 5 grams rather than 1), check the ingredient list for inulin, a soluble fiber.

     Derived from chicory root, inulin bumps up fiber grams and, due to its creamy texture, makes a good fat replacement; plus, it may boost healthy bacteria in your GI system.  If you're fiber-challenged, inulin can help you up your intake, says Patricia Bannan, RD, author of Eat Right When Time is Tight.  "But limit it to 5 to 10 grams a day, aim to get most of your fiber from fruits, veggies and whole grains, which deliver other nutrients you can't get from a bar or brownie," she says.



reprinted from Every Day magazine, March 2013.

The Temple to Gluttony

    

     That's the way the Shady Maple Smorgasbord in Lancaster County has been referred to by more than one person.  Their claim to fame is that they are "Lancaster County's largest smorgasbord" with "200 feet of deliciously authentic Pennsylvania Dutch cooking."  After all, they do have 46 salad bar items, 3 soups, 8 different meats and 14 veggies served up daily.  And if you are still hungry after as many platefuls as you can handle, you can stroll back to fill up on the 10 cold and 3 hot dessert items, to say nothing of the 8 different pies and 6 cakes available along with the cookies and ice cream bar.

 

     Shady Maple is open from 5 am to 8 pm Monday through Saturday and begins the day with a belly buster breakfast that includes eggs any style, omelets, quiche, sausage, ham, scrapple, bacon, pancakes, french toast, mush, puddins, oatmeal, waffles, biscuits and baked goods too numerous to mention.  There is an evening dinner special featured each evening, too.  Steak,  prime rib, wings, ham, crab cakes, seafood, and Cajun catfish are among the featured entrees.  They are augmented by the likes of corn fritters, potato cakes, kielbasa and pizza.

 

     Paying a visit there last Friday for lunch I must admit that the food is good, all 3 platefuls that I enjoyed.  There is nothing shabby about the quality of the food which is kept at the proper temperature.  The hot food is hot and the cold food is cold, just the way it should be.   And the prices are quite reasonable: breakfast $9.99 ($8.98 for seniors 60+), lunch $13.49 ($12.14), and dinner $18.49 ($16.65).  If you are 90 or older there is a 50% discount.  And there is also a special discount for recent gastric bypass customers, too.

     Then after your meal you can waddle down the stairs to the gift shop in the basement with 41,000 square feet of retail space to peruse.  That should help to walk off all those calories!

Summer's Here!

       Just a few minutes after one in the morning today Summer officially arrived.  That was when the sun reached it's highest point in the northern hemisphere, at the Tropic of Cancer, 23.5 degrees above the Equator.

     And on this now first day of the Summer season I can announce a proud first.  Never before in my life have I picked a tomato so early, but will do so later today.  Most gardeners are pleased to be able to harvest a love apple by the Fourth of July, which I was able to do once before in my life.  But today truly marks a milestone in my agrarian adventure.  And here is the proof:

Rock Celery

    

     My herbs are growing well outside in their porch pots.  And leading all the others is my flat leaf parsley.  No wonder it is the world's most popular herb.  Petroselinum crispum or rock celery from the Greek, has been cultivated for over two thousand years and is native to the Mediterranean region of southern Europe.  Before finding its way into the kitchen it was used medicinally and was held sacred by the Greek culture.  It was an adornment for athletic victors, used to decorate tombs and worn in wreaths to ward off drunkenness.

     We are perhaps most familiar with the two main varieties: curly and flat leaf, but there are also two other types that are gaining in popularity: Hamburg and Japanese, of the more than 30 now being commercially produced.  They all provide an excellent source of both Vitamin C & A and are also a good source of folic acid that is known to contribute to cardiovascular health as well as cancer prevention,  Parsley is a storehouse of nutrients and is good for digestion in addition to stimulating appetite.  Those trifolate leaves contain 2 types of unusual components that can give us unique health benefits.  First, they contain volatile oil components that inhibit tumor formation, especially in the lungs.  Those oils are chemo-protective and neutralize carcinogens.  And second, parsley contains flavonoids, powerful antioxidants that prevent cell damage.



     It's a shame that this beneficial herb is used mainly as a decorative garnish.  While we know that chewing that sprig on the plate at the end of a meal can help eliminate halitosis, there must be better ways to ingest this healthy member of the carrot family into the body.  So beside using parsley in soups and salads and as a seasoning for meat, potatoes and fish, let me recommend a favorite use among our South American neighbors.  Here is a recipe for chimichurri that you can make before you fire up the grill to cook that steak you are planning to serve for your Fourth of July celebration.

Argentinian Chimichurri

 

INGREDIENTS

• 2 cups packed fresh Italian parsley leaves
• 4 medium garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
• 1/4 cup packed fresh oregano leaves (or 4 teaspoons dried oregano)
• 1/4 cup red wine vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Place parsley, garlic, oregano, vinegar, red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper (to taste) in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a blade attachment. Process until finely chopped, stopping and scraping down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed, about 1 minute total.
2. With the motor running, add oil in a steady stream. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and pulse a few times to combine. Transfer sauce to an airtight container and refrigerate at least 2 hours or up to 1 day to allow the flavors to meld. Before serving, stir and season as needed. The chimichurri will keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.



Nacho Mama's Soup!

     According to the folks at Purely American, "Up until the late 1800's the interest in growing mushrooms was limited to home gardeners, primarily because of the unreliable supply of imported spawn (seed)."  It wasn't until 1896 that William Swayne, a flower and vegetable grower from Kennett Square, PA, began to grow the fungus commercially as a secondary crop.

 

     By the turn of the Twentieth Century the industry literally mushroomed and by the Roaring Twenties several large Pennsylvania based commercial growers dominated the industry.  Currently mushrooms harvested in the Keystone State compose nearly half of the nation's 800 million pounds of fresh mushrooms grown annually.  Chester County alone accounts for one quarter of all the mushrooms produced in America.  No wonder Kennett Square calls itself "The Mushroom Capital of the World."

     Recently I came across an interesting recipe from Purely American that isn't like all the other mushroom soups that are cream based.  While they are good, to be sure, I was looking for something a bit different, something with a little zing.  So I purchased a mix calling for fresh mushrooms, ground beef, onion, beef stock and hot sauce.  It came with some seasonings and added barley and wild rice as well.

     It didn't take long to cook up and filled the house with a tantalizing aroma.  It was a hearty soup with the clear flavor of the mushrooms enhanced by the grains and the beef.  And the hot sauce provided a nice tang to the back of the throat.  It definitely wasn't the traditional cream of mushroom soup experience.  It was better!

Predictable

     Before I begin a diatribe against all food franchises let me say that they do have some positive points.  First of all, they have name recognition.  When you drive into the parking lot of a Cracker Barrel or Old Country Buffet restaurant you pretty much know what to expect.  Their menus are universal with little variation.  (OK, yes you can purchase beer in McDonald's in Germany, and the Burger King's in Hawaii does serve Spam.)  But for the most part there are no surprises.  And with that, no creativity either.  Secondly, you know the costs of the items on the menu, since there is only minor variation across our great nation.  And if you own one of these franchises you have the support from a national headquarters that assists in marketing and collective buying power for raw materials and supplies.  There is also guidance as to decor and layout.  And no deviation from that standard is permitted, even down to the color scheme in the restrooms!

     But my major complaint of franchise eateries is two fold.  It has been my experience that most, if not all of the food on the menu is predetermined and trucked in from some central kitchen facility which weighs, measures and cooks most of the food to be served, according to a standard created by someone far removed from the restaurant.  This makes for a bland, but predictable product that ultimately lowers the public's expectations of a good, healthy meal.  Contrary to the marketing of Applebee's, diners aren't really, "eating good in the neighborhood."  The food is notorious for containing way too much sodium and sugar to preserve and flavor it, to say nothing of the high caloric content. 

     Another problem I have with franchise food is that a large portion of the revenue is removed from the local community and must be paid to some corporate entity, often in another state or region of the country.  Royalties and franchise fees support nameless and faceless executives, not Johnny's little league team or Suzie's cheer leading squad.
     But sadly, franchise food has become the way of life for our fast paced society.  Touch down in any town and you will see the logos of dozens of familiar food chains serving up something that we have come to recognize as more of a way to get fed inexpensively, rather than to really enjoy something special that has been personally prepared with care and attention.

     So the next time you are headed out for something to eat, give a thought to the quality of your meal and the person serving it.  And then expect just a little more than a franchise experience.

Breaking the Rules

     Never, ever eat at a franchise restaurant!  That is one of my simple rules by which I attempt to always abide.  But last Friday night I broke that rule when I decided to redeem a $25 gift card I received in the mail from the local Bonefish Grill franchise what opened recently in nearby Montgomeryville.  The reason was due to an abrupt change of plans providing me with an unexpected night out of the kitchen.  So I headed over to see if this place was any different from the rest.

     Requesting a corner booth so I could safely watch the crowd with my back to the wall I was promptly greeted by my server who began with her scripted introduction directing me to the back of the plastic menu where the specialty (read: higher priced) drinks were listed.  Declining to have anything stronger than iced tea, which I thought was a bit steep at $2.70,  she then recited the house special "crave-worthy" appetizers and entrees which included something called "Bang-bang shrimp."  And even before I could read through the large print menu I was asked to place my order.

     It wasn't very long before my cup of corn chowder with lump crab arrived, luke warm.  That was probably due to the fact that it hadn't spent sufficient time in the microwave.  No doubt it had been prepared weeks earlier in some central kitchen midway between Florida and Maine and shipped in a 55 gallon drum by refrigerated truck.  It was so devoid of flavor that it needed a strong dose of hot sauce to make it memorable.

     After languishing through the soupy appetizer I hoped that my soft shell crab cake would be better.  It was, after all, a novel concept: a soft shell crab stuffed with crab meat.  But what arrived at my table was a contradiction in terms.  The crab meat, loaded with filler, was soggy while the shell was hard and dried out.  It caused me to wonder when the poor crab last saw salt water.  And the accompanying asparagus could not be revived.  It was thick and sullen.  I accidentally dented one spear in an attempt to cut through it.  Sadly, the highlight of the meal was the warm rectangular mini-loaf of bread that was served with seasoned EVOO.

     Yet the staff was friendly and attentive.  No less than 3 managers stopped by my table to ask how I was enjoying my meal.  I barely was able to get a bite down between conversations.  In their literature they make the bold assertion that diners will receive "an inspired dinner that opens your eyes."  Well, at least the last part of that claim is accurate.  With the gift card my final bill came to 53 cents.  I think I paid too much.

Is It Soup Yet?

     New Englanders certainly do love their chowder!  The cook-off was packed with folks eager to sample all the varieties being offered by the competing organizations.  But as I tasted the nearly two dozen different chowders I wondered to myself, what goes into making a really great chowder?

     It seems that chowder is to New Englanders what gumbo is to folks along the bayou.  There are some basics, but creativity is really the main ingredient.  And everyone there cooking had some sort of individual twist to their concoction.  I peeked behind the scenes of one booth and spoke with the head chef who was patiently stirring his chowder in a large make-shift double boiler.  He told me that is the only way to heat the mixture without burning it with the dry heat of the open flame.  Others had secret ingredients, like smoked alligator meat, or brie cheese.  And another didn't use clams at all, but a combination of oysters and lobster meat.

     I came away with a sense of freedom with regard to my own cooking after sampling all the different chowders.  Cook what you like and like what you cook I guess is the mantra of the Great Chowder Cook-Off.  That worked for them and it works for me!

Ill Equipped

     In most parts of the country the unofficial start to Summer is marked by Memorial Day.  But not in Newport, RI!  The Great Chowder Cook-Off is the event that signals the summer season for that portion of New England.  People have been coming to America's Cup Avenue there for over three decades to start their summer by tasting the best chowders from across the nation.  And they don't arrive without some serious preparation.



     As I stood in the preferred admittance line I chatted it up with some locals.  And as I did I noticed some interesting equipment they brought along.  First, I noticed they all had on sturdy shoes, hats, backpacks and lightweight clothing.  This was to make the best of the all afternoon event.  They were also armed with folding umbrellas, just in case.  Resourceful Yankees are prepared for the unexpected.  But what they did expect was a lot of little 1 oz cups of chowder samples from the nearly two dozen competitors.  And to handle all those cups they had something I had not considered and it caught me quite by surprise.  They all had frisbees.  Frisbees, you ask?  Well yes, if you invert them they make wonderful little trays in which to hold multiple samples being offered in order to taste test the different chowders side by side.  My, they take their voting responsibilities seriously!  And in the pockets of many were plastic soup spoons so they could enjoy every last drop of each chowder.  The backpacks?  They were to collect up all the samples of items used to entice votes from participants.  Everything from miniature frisbees, to beads, to shot glasses were given away.  And then from the corporate sponsors there were insulated canvas shopping bags, key chains, boxes of crackers and bags of chips, stickers and even yo-yos.  Also being handed out were samples of chocolate milk and an amazing burger slider made with maple syrup and apple slices, and bacon and cheese of course.  They never made it into the backpacks as you might guess.

 

     If not by my Philly accent then by my lack of preparation they could tell I was a neophyte, and outsider to the event.  But I quickly learned how to navigate the course and sample all the chowders and collect up all of the goodies.  With some friendly coaching I became a veteran of my first campaign and by the 5 pm deadline cast my votes for the best of the best in each category.



As American as...

     Yesterday I mentioned that certain areas of our great nation are identified by regional delicacies.  And America as a whole is symbolized by a summertime favorite, apple pie.  But at the Great Chowder Cook-Off in Rhode Island on June 1st they would like to challenge that notion.

 

     The event has been taking place for over three decades and invites participants from around the world to compete for honors in three different categories: clam, seafood, and creative.  As you might expect, the majority of the 19 teams there this year came from the New England area and was predominated by local restaurants and cooking schools.  Teams were there from familiar places like Providence, Boston, Groton, Mystic and Westerly.  But it became a national event as competitors showed up from New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, and as far away as Seattle and Timberline Lodge, Oregon.  And it became a truly international event with the presence of a team from County Mayo, Ireland.

     So move over, apple pie!  Make room for another American icon, clam chowder!



Culinary Geography

     Yesterday's mention of lobster rolls evokes the image of a seaside clam shack or chowder house along the rock bound New England coast.  There are numerous foods that are inextricably linked to certain geographic locations.  Take for example poutine, standard fare in Quebec, or key lime pie in southern Florida, or the beignet in New Orleans.  And of course I would be remiss if I didn't mention the iconic cheese steak and hoagie in the City of Brotherly Love.

     So you might imagine my confusion when staying in Newport, Rhode Island and having gravy and biscuits at the self serve cafeteria line for breakfast each morning at the Holiday Inn Express.  Isn't that a classic "low country" southern meal?  I'm not sure what I expected in New England, maybe porridge or something slathered with real Vermont maple syrup would have been more appropriate.  Maybe something like apples and cheese, both locally sourced.  Certainly not the white meat speckled peppered gravy poured over a split biscuit.  Kudos to HIE for their hospitality, cleanliness and overall helpfulness.  But they really missed the boat on breakfast!



The Big Chill

     Lobster rolls are practically synonymous with New England.  They symbolize the culinary essence of the region.  On my recent journey to Rhode Island I had two of them and savored each and every bite.  But what goes into the perfect lobster roll?  That is subject to much debate among locals and visitors alike.  A lobster roll is a lot like ordering a new car: there are plenty of options.

     Purists would decry the addition of anything in the roll, which must be a top split hot dog roll buttered and lightly toasted on the outside, other than just the meat of a freshly cooked lobster.  However, depending on the restaurant (or roadside seafood stand), other ingredients can be included.  Perhaps the most common addition is mayonnaise very lightly blended into the chopped meat.  For added crunch some add finely diced celery and perhaps some sliced scallions.   Onions and their milder relative, shallots, are seldom used for fear they would overwhelm the delicate flavor of the crustacean's meat.  Other additions found in the seaside summer delight are lettuce, herbs, and a spritz of lemon juice.  And a unique twist to the lobster roll is found in Connecticut where vendors sell it warmed in the roll.

     Perry's in Milford, CT is credited with first serving up the lobster roll at their restaurant in 1929 and for several years it was a menu item to a limited number of people along the coastline of that state.  Eventually the popularity grew to where the lobster roll is now routinely served to eager patrons from Long Island to coastal Canada.

 

     But one nagging question remains.  Since it is best to cook the lobster alive to avoid the  possibility of food poisoning that can occur from the bacterial contamination in deceased shellfish, what is the best and most humane way to cook a lobster?  Many theories abound.  Some recommend a cold saltwater bath scented in clove oil (really?), or thrusting a knife through the head.  But unfortunately the lobster's nervous system is not like ours and is distributed throughout the body, so such a method is not instantaneous as we might imagine.  The simplest method seems to work the best.  I call it the "Big Chill."  Place the lobster(s) in the freezer for about 30 minutes.  This renders the lobster motionless and makes the trip into the pot of boiling water a mundane task, devoid of any trauma for the lobster or the cook.



    

    

A Fortuitous Happenstance

     There is a small agency in Newport, RI that offers a walking culinary tour of the town only on Fridays.  Eager to be a part of the chef led tour I quickly signed up, only to find that the 1 pm event had been canceled due to a family emergency.  Naturally disappointed I had to quickly make alternative plans for my limited time along the Narragansett Bay.  Somewhat disgusted at the abrupt change in my schedule I got in my car and headed for Point Judith along the coast where nearly a half century ago I had for the first time dug for quahogs along the beach using a somewhat pre-historic looking clam rake at low tide.

     As luck would have it that also happens to be the location of the ferry to Block Island that transports people and supplies to the small resort community there.  And again a stroke of good fortune came my way when I discovered that the morning ferry was still in dock and about to leave in half an hour.  I quickly booked passage for the 45 minute, 12 mile ride and set off to discover new sights, and as it turned out, tastes of Rhode Island.

 



     It was almost noon when we landed in Old Harbor, a small Victorian looking village.  I rented a car for the afternoon with the intent of visiting the two lighthouses located on each end of the island.  From north to south it is a short half hour scenic drive past million dollar summer homes and I happily took in the ambiance of the locale, feeling very serene and relaxed.  But after visiting both lighthouses I still had some time left before returning my PT Cruiser convertible and catching the afternoon ferry back to the mainland.  So I took off to find some of the off the beaten track places that are hangouts for the locals and not the tourists.


     And that's when it happened.  I had finally done something that had taken me over 6 decades to accomplish.  They say you always remember your first, and I certainly did.  It was the first time in my life that I ate a stuffie!  I came upon a small backwater (no pun intended) little bar/restaurant on a side street outside Old Harbor.  It was frequented by a couple fishermen and an old retired guy (like myself).  And there I had the Rhode Island classic.

     A good stuffie is a labor intensive culinary work of art.  Using the shell of the quahog the clam meat is chopped and mixed with some breadcrumbs and a secret blend of spices and then baked in the shell, then served with hot sauce and a lemon wedge.  It was a perfect combination of salt, heat and sweetness that danced around in my mouth, tantalizing my tastebuds.  It made my day, as Dirty Harry would say.

 

     I wasn't disappointed!  That stuffie became the measurement by which all future stuffies will be regarded in my mind.

Creating a legend

     According to legend, it was a hot July day in Essex, Massachusetts in 1916 when Lawrence "Chubby" Woodman invented the first fried clam by rolling a shucked whole-belly soft-shell clam in some crumbs and immersing it in the cauldron of hot oil he used for frying his potato chips.  Not only was this a stroke of culinary genius, but Chubby's timing was also impeccable.  Following the First World War America was on the move and wanted something good to eat: something that was fast, convenient and inexpensive.  And thus the clam shack had it's humble beginning.

 

     During my stay in the Newport area I came across an iconic clam shack, Flo's.  Located on Wave Avenue, it's been an institution by the bay since 1936.  A classic "in the rough" eating establishment it's a combination of hangout, restaurant and meeting place for locals who want good food at a decent price.  In fact, on Friday night when I visited they were offering their end of the week special, a full prime rib dinner for $9.95.  It was indeed an amazing meal with a slab of meat so big it was literally falling off the plates of the two women at the table next to me.  The beef was accompanied by garlic mashed potatoes and a huge salad.  Commending them for their effort they confided to me that they will take home what they could not finish and have at least two more meals at home!

     As good as that prime rib meal looked, I could not bring myself to have beef at a clam shack.  So I ordered up another cup of Rhode Island clam chowder (I can't seem to get enough of it!), a stuffie, and a classic top split lobster roll brimming with succulent claw meat.

     Following the instructions, I placed my order by the outside window and found my way upstairs to the balcony that overlooked the beach and waited for my electronic lobster to light up informing me that my meal was ready for pick up.  In a few minutes I was summoned and picked up a tray full of oceanic delights.  As the sun was going down I exulted in the soft breeze coming in through the open roof and savored a memorable meal.  Life doesn't get much better than that!



The Real Deal

     I mentioned commencing my meal at Anthony's with some Rhode Island Clam Chowder.  That is without a doubt the least well known of the 3 signature chowders that designate a geographic area.  Most people are aware of the creamy New England variety and the tomato based Manhattan version.  But the Rhode Island style chowder relies on the basic flavor of the clams without any other ingredient playing a supporting role.  It is my favorite and the one I will always order if given the opportunity.  A clear briny broth cradles the goodness of sweet clams and hearty cubed potatoes without the cloying potential of the thick milky New England style, or the acidic tomatoes that can overpower the taste of the sea in the New York rendition.

     It was on tax day (April 15th) that I gave an initial review of the three chowders after creating my own Rhode Island version for the first time.  And that was when I became a true believer.  Here is the recipe for you to try:

Rhode Island Clam Chowder

2 oz. thin-sliced bacon (2 to 3 slices), cut crosswise into 1/4-inch strips

1-1/2 oz. unsalted butter (3 Tbs.)

1 large yellow onion, cut into small dice (about 2 cups)

4 tender inner celery stalks, sliced crosswise 1/8 inch thick (about 1 cup)

1 Tbs. finely chopped garlic (2 large cloves)

6 cups diluted clam broth, plus the reserved clam meat (1-1/2 to 2 cups), finely chopped

1-1/2 lb. large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/3-inch dice (about 3-1/2 cups)

2-1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

2 bay leaves

Freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 

Put the bacon in a wide heavy-duty 4- to 5-quart pot or Dutch oven and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until just beginning to turn crisp and golden, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat. Pour off and discard the bacon fat, leaving the bacon in the pot. Add the butter and onion and cook over low heat, covered, stirring occasionally, until the onion is sweet and tender, about 10 minutes. The onion shouldn’t color. Add the celery and garlic and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until all the vegetables are tender, 5 to 7 minutes more. Add the clam broth, potatoes, thyme, bay leaves, and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.
Remove the soup from the heat, wait until it stops simmering (this may take a minute if you’re using a Dutch oven), and stir in the clams and chopped parsley. Season to taste with black pepper, if desired.
                   

Ask a local

     I've discovered in my travels that those slick booklets in the hotel rooms advertising area eateries aren't always the best way to find a good place to eat.  More often than not the places listed are only there because they have paid for the advertising space and their inclusion on the page has little to do with the quality of their food.  What I have learned to do is to ask a local about a good place to eat.  Word of mouth is always the best indicator.  And a full parking lot verifies their wisdom.

     So with that in mind I asked the person behind the counter at my lodging where I could find an authentic Yankee meal.  She promptly pulled out a map of the area and drew me a direct route to Anthony's.  I later discovered that apparently so many people ask that they had printed the directions on a pink sheet of paper that was on the desk of every room.

 

     Anthony's began in 1956 as a fish market.  Then somewhere down the line the management decided to cook some of the seafood they sold and added a small dining area to their original store.  It is a typical understated New England establishment as the photograph below indicates.  But the food is anything but understated.

 

     So for my first night in The Ocean State I went all out and began with a cup of the clear, briny Rhode Island Clam Chowder and then made my way through the massive Mega Shore Dinner.  That included the long neck steamers, mussels, chourico, corn on the cob, boiled potatoes, onions and a whole steamed lobster, along with clam broth and melted butter on the side. 

 

     It was a daunting task, but I managed to down every last delicious morsel and was barely able to waddle out of the place to my waiting vehicle.

The Ocean State

     Rhode Island, as we all know, is the smallest of our fifty states.  Little Rhody is only 48 miles from north to south and a mere 37 miles east to west.  The population is just over a million inhabitants, less than Philadelphia and the entire state shares the same phone area code: 401.  But the state has over 400 miles of coastline.  So as you might expect, fishing is a major industry.  Clams, scallops, oysters, codfish, flounder, sole and certainly lobsters proliferate the menus of the restaurants and clam shacks not only in Rhode Island, but the entire New England area.

     And many of the local eateries operate on a system generally referred to as "eating in the rough."  It isn't fine dining by a long shot, but it is good.  The eat-in-the-rough protocol is as follows:  You stand at a counter or window and place your order first, even before sitting down.  That might require shouting your order in to the kitchen.  Then you take a number and find a seat.  The kitchen then goes to work and your meal is prepared right then and there and brought to your table on a tray, served on paper plates with plastic utensils.  Another variant can be employed and you are summoned back to the counter to retrieve your own meal when you respond to your number being shouted out.  For those unfamiliar with the method for retrieving the succulent lobster meat from the shell there is usually a detailed set of instructions on the place mat.  And after you have finished your meal you are also expected to clear your own table.  One final note:  payment is almost always cash only.



     Although my stay in Rhode Island was limited I was able to feast on the ocean's bounty for the 4 days I was there.  More on my experience tomorrow.