Thursday, May 7, 2015

The Last Supper

     All the while I was in Montreal I kept hearing about an amazing high-end restaurant called  Garde Manger,  co-owned by Chuck Hughes, a chef, TV personality and restaurateur.  He is widely known by Canadians for his Food Network show "Chuck's Day Off" and also for being an Iron Chef America contestant and winner.


     It was rumored to me that it is virtually impossible to get a seat in his restaurant without a reservation made weeks in advance.  I also heard that the place is so exclusive that there isn't even a sign out front to identify it.  But since it was my last night in the city first explored by Jacques Cartier I decided to give it a try.  Encouraged by Anne-Marie, the concierge at my hotel, I followed her instructions and arrived just as the restaurant was opening for the evening.  And it really wasn't difficult to find.  It was only the next block down the street from Auberge Bonaparte where I was staying.



     I walked in and looked briefly at the enclosed fireplace in the exposed brick wall in the foyer and was greeted by a dutiful woman at the desk.  Her first question, as you might expect, was "Do you have a reservation?"  Admitting that I did not I said that I was dining alone and could I just sit at the bar so as not to soil any table linens for other patrons.  She reluctantly agreed but sternly warned me to be finished my meal by 7pm when the entire restaurant will be filled by those reserving tables.



     As I sat meekly at the end of the bar I looked out over the 65 seat location with its laissez-faire decor, complete with distressed mirrors, chandeliers and an open kitchen.  I was also taken that the bartender was as warm and gracious as the front desk staff was stand-offish.  We enjoyed a friendly conversation as I reviewed the menu.  I could have ordered house smoked salmon as an appetizer or entrees like Gaspor pork chops topped with diced bell pepper or braised beef short ribs.  But I had only one thing on my mind:  poutine homard.  Yes, poutine topped with lobster!  With my order placed I waited with eager anticipation and it wasn't long until my entree made its way to my perch.  The French have a saying that "You eat first with your eyes" so I spent a moment visually savoring my meal.  I could see that this homage to the homard was exceptional.  Mixed in with the fries and cheese curds were bits of lobster meat, topped with an entire claw and a split tail.  And in keeping with the shellfish theme the brown gravy had been substituted by a lobster bisque reduction.  If it tasted any better it would have been declared illegal.  Each morsel tantalized my taste buds with the best of land and sea.  I had finally struck the holy grail of poutine!  It was as decadent as my lunchtime poutine was basic.  And for $28 Canadian it should have been!



     It took nearly an hour to claim victory but I finished my meal with just enough time to have dessert, a maple syrup panna cotta, and be on my way out the door before the stroke of 7pm.



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