Hitting the Road

     By the time you read this I will be on my way out to the edge of the Prairie to do some culinary research into the cuisine of the upper Midwest.  And while there I will also study the phenomenon of food on a stick.  Stay tuned after Labor Day when I will report my findings!

It's Greek to me

     So what makes greek yogurt different from regular yogurt?  Well, that depends on the manufacturer, actually.  Most greeks are thicker because they have been strained of the whey.  The straining removes liquid and leaves more concentrated solids behind.  That's what makes greek yogurts thick and rich, even if they're fat free.  They're also higher in protein.

     But some prefer to create a faux greek yogurt by thickening regular yogurt with pectin and/or inulin (see VinnyPost "The Sneaky Fiber" 6/25).  And some use things like corn starch and gelatin and proceed to add milk and whey protein concentrates to boost protein levels up.

     While greek yogurts seem to have a lot going for them there is a downside.  By straining out calcium-rich whey they end up with less bone fortifying calcium.  In comparison, the greeks have about 15-20% of a day's worth of calcium, while the non-greeks have 25-30% of the daily requirement.

     In addition to taste, you have to consider what's more important to you: protein or calcium?



Going Greek

     There's an article in the latest Nutrition Action Health Letter, that explains the latest craze in the yogurt industry, Greek Yogurt.  Authors Jayne Hurley & Bonnie Liebman write that "The yogurt aisle isn't what it used to be.  In the last few years, greet yogurt has taken over a sizable chunk of the refrigerator case, leaving non-greeks to compete for the remaining real estate.

     Meanwhile, both greek and non-greek yogurts are branching out.  Fat-free? Cream on the top?  You got 'em."  They say.  "Fruit puree or fruit mousse?  Check.  Lactose-free or no dairy at all?  Got you covered.  And as for toppings and mix-ins, strawberry and vanilla are battling for shelf space with fig with orange zest and chocolate corn flakes."

     So just what is yogurt anyway?  It is actually bacteria that is added to milk.  Lactobacillus bulgaricus and Streptocossus thermophilus are the two strains primarily used.  But some brands include others as well.  Look on the label to see if the terms "live cultures" or "active bacteria" are used.  That way you know you are getting the real deal.  But to receive the National Yogurt Association's "Live & Active Cultures" seal companies are required to pay an annual fee.  So that is not a definitive assurance since some of the markets brands decline to shell out the cash for the designation even though they are legitimate.

     Yogurt is a good source of protein and calcium due to the bacteria's ability to change milk's naturally occuring sugar into lactic acid.  And to answer the age old question, "Does yogurt help to restore bacteria to the gut after a course of antibiotics or help to treat yeast infections?"  To date the answer is inconclusive.

     One word of caution, however.  Companies neglect to state just how much "Sugars" number on their Nutrition Facts labels come from added sugar and how much comes from naturally occurring sugars in the yogurt's milk and fruit.

More tomorrow on the greek yogurt phenominon...

In the Big Apple

     Be sure to mark your calendars and make plans to attend the 87th Annual Feast of San Gennaro.  It will take place in New York's Little Italy for 11 days from Thursday September 12th Through Sunday September 22. 

     Presented annually by Figli di San Gennaro, Inc, (Children of San Gennaro), a not-for-profit community organization dedicated to keeping alive the spirit and faith of the early Italian immigrants whose first home in America was the Lower Manhattan neighborhood known today as Little Italy.

     Although this is an annual celebration of faith, it is known for its festive atmosphere, with events featuring religious processions and colorful parades, free musical entertainment and a wide range of ethnic food delicacies served in restaurants and cafes.  There is even a world famous cannoli eating contest.

New York Times Photo                        

 



     "This feast of San Gennaro holds a special place in the place of Italian people everywhere," so says Joseph Mattone, President of Figli di San Gennaro, Inc.  "It is a festive period of faith and redemption, a time for remembrance and reconciliation, and a time for celebration...The feast brings the world to Little Italy and Little Italy to the world."

Starr Struck in DC

     Stephen Starr is an entrepreneurial genius.  He oversees 20 themed restaurants in Philly and another dozen in New York, New Jersey and Florida.  They include Pan Asian, Italian, Latin, contemporary American, French, steaks & chops, seafood, beer garden and farm to table concepts.  And every one of them is a winner.

     This past weekend I found myself in our nation's capitol and took in his latest venture, a French bistro, Le Diplomate.  The Sunday brunch was amazing.  It was just like enjoying a meal in Paris at a table overlooking the Seine.  The menu included everything you would expect from bouillabaisse to bagettes.  All the classic French favorites were on the menu and had it not been raining I could have dined "en plein air" at their outdoor cafe.

     I began my meal with a half dozen assorted oysters on the half shell with an assortment of freshly baked breads from their kitchen.  I followed up with a crock of French onion soup gratinee.  It was magnifcent!



Bet you didn't know...

     This summer looks to be the wettest on record.  Both June and July set rainfall records and August appears to be headed in the same direction.  All the moisture bodes well for crops.  I've never seen fields of corn so tall as they are right now.  And just last week I purchased a cantaloupe that was the size of a basketball, literally.  Our summer fruits and vegetables  have benefited from the rain.

     If you click on to the website BuzzFeed, you can learn "16 Mind-blowing Fruit Facts."

Outtakes

     Here are some photos that didn't make it into my reporting of the culinary research adventure to the Pacific Northwest:

 

 

 

Award Winning

    

     It has been said that an army travels on its stomach.  And while that is certainly true for the military, it is also true for the civilian traveler, too.  Especially when visiting a place for the first time it is crucial to have access to good food.  We are fortunate in our computer age to have the assistance of things like Trip Advisor and Yelp to recommend good restaurants and lodging.  But one person having a bad day can write a poor review that can taint the reputation of a worthy business.  And the impression received from an on-line contact is only as good as the creativity of the web master constructing it.

     With the kind assistance of my AAA trip advisor, Kristin, I looked carefully for a place to stay while out in the Pacific Northwest.  Together we looked over about a dozen different kinds of lodging before settling on a place just outside of Friday Harbor.  The Trumpeter Inn looked to be just another mid-fifties kind of place with rooms originally in some one's home that was converted to a B & B.  But what initially caught my eye was the comment that each afternoon freshly baked cookies were available for the guests.  Who does that?  Every day, fresh cookies?



     So my room was booked for the week and I eagerly waited to see what The Trumpeter Inn was really like.  After an extremely long day of travel I finally arrived at the long driveway to the inn and found Shaun, the innkeeper, waiting my arrival.  I was pleasantly surprised at what I found.  The property abounds with flowers and artful landscaping.  And while the building was originally a home, it had been enlarged to accommodate the full demands of a Bed & Breakfast.  And that included a full kitchen on the second floor.  It was the kitchen of my dreams!  And it had a little breakfast nook where I could settle in each morning at dawn to plan my day, have a cup of coffee and catch up on my e-mail.  And there were also cookies!  Shaun baked a different kind each day, in addition to an amazing full breakfast 7 days a week.  So much for my morning meal that I didn't need lunch and was fueled until the dinner hour.

     The trip to the Pacific Northwest to discover a new cuisine was a success.  I traveled across the continent and found more than I ever expected.  Good food, great weather, friendly people, and genuine hospitality.  Who could ask for more?

Feeling at Home

     The Lavender Festival at the Pelindaba Lavender Farm was going full swing when I arrived.  There were numerous demonstrations going on and a marimba band was playing under a large tent.  I was naturally attracted to one demonstration in particular, the cooking one.  It was already in progress when I slipped down the side aisle and sat down in the front row next to a man wearing a T shirt which subtly spelled out "Coho."  At the conclusion of the demo about using culinary lavendar in meal preparation I struck up a conversation by asking if he worked at the restaurant in Friday Harbor or if he was just advertising for them.

     "Well, I guess you could say that I work there, " was his reply.  "I own the place."  Yes, I was sitting next to the owner, Dave Pass, who by the way grew up in Camp Hill, PA and went to school in Philadelphia.  His restaurant, Coho, is one of the premier dining establishments on San Juan Island and it is known for "island grown Pacific Northwest cuisine..."  Their menu is sourced from fresh ingredients from the surrounding islands and is located on Nichols Street in a former residence.  As we chatted further I asked about their hours of operation and how much in advance reservations should be made.  He told me that both he and his staff need a day off a week and so are open from Tuesday through Sunday.  I thanked him for the information and immediately made a dinner reservation for the following Tuesday so I could learn more about his take on Pacific Northwest cuisine.

 

     It was indeed like walking into someones home.  The restaurant had a cozy feel about it with only 9 tables.  Dave greeted me, remembering our conversation from a few days earlier and called me by name, Vinny!  As I looked over the menu I was impressed at the way he had intentionally incorporated locally sourced food for his meals. 

     I ordered the King Salmon which was served with roasted summer squash and heirloom tomato salsa over wild rice and chickpea socca.  The meal was at the same time impressive and straightforward in its simplicity.  But even more importantly, it tasted good!  I had finally gotten a handle on the perimeters of true Pacific Northwest cuisine.

 

     At the conclusion of my meal I perused the dessert menu but did not order.  That was because I knew that some award winning cookies awaited me back at my lodging. More on that tomorrow...

Another Favorite Recipe

     There's nothing like a warming plate of comfort food to lift spirits on a cold Winter's day.  I've adapted a salmon recipe I found that accomplishes just that.  Here it is:

ROASTED SALMON

WITH LENTILS AND BACON

 

4 strips bacon, cut into 1/2" pieces           1 can diced tomatoes

1 small onion, cut int 1/2" slices                1/4 tsp dried thyme

1 carrot, cut into small dice                        1 bay leaf

1 clove garlic, minced                                  freshly ground black pepper 

1 rib celery, cut into small dice                 4 center-cut salmon fillets

1 can Progresso lentil soup

 

1.  In an oven proof saucepan, cook the bacon until browned.  Remove bacon and drain on paper towels.  To the oil in the pan add the onion, garlic, carrot and celery and cook over moderate heat until golden.

 

2. Meanwhile in a large non-stick pan simmer the soup until it begins to thicken.  Add the vegetables, the diced tomatoes, the bay leaf and the thyme.  Season with the pepper.

 

3. Heat the oven to 450F.  Sprinkle the salmon with salt and pepper and place skin side up in the saucepan used to cook the bacon and vegetables and cook over moderately high heat.  Add a tablespoon of cooking oil, if necessary.  Cook until golden. 

 

4. Turn the salmon and place the pan in the oven and continue cooking until the salmon is just barely done.

 

5.  Place the creamy lentils on to plates, sprinkle with the bacon and top with the roasted salmon.

 

Serves 4

 





My Favorite Recipe

     As I continue to write about all the culinary wonders of the Pacific Northwest I was recently asked if I have a favorite salmon recipe.  Well, yes, actually I have two: a summer and a winter recipe.

     Salmon is amazing, full of flavor and it pairs well with any number of supporting sides.  It can be a meal in itself, grilled poached or smoked.  But my summertime favorite is an adaptation of a Scandinavian preparation.  Traditionally gravlax is the method by which salmon is cured using salt and dill.  The time consuming curing process is accelerated by seasoning the fish with the same two seasonings and then broiling it in the oven, then served with the traditional sauce of mustard flavored mayonnaise sweetened with honey.  Here is the recipe:

 

SALMON WITH GRAVLAX SAUCE

 

2 Tbsp dry mustard                          dried dill

2 Tbsp cold water                              2 lbs center cut salmon fillet, cut into 4 pieces

1/2 cup mayonnaise                         1 Tbsp cooking oil

1 Tbsp honey                                      1/4 tsp fresh ground pepper

salt

 

1.  In a small glass or stainless-steel bowl, whisk together the mustard and water.  Let sit for 10 minutes.  Whisk in the mayonnaise, honey, 1/8 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon dill.

 

2.  Heat the broiler.  Rub the salmon on both sides with the oil.  Put the pieces in a broiler pan or on a baking sheet, skin-side down, about 2 inches apart.  Sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon dill, and the pepper.  Broil the fish until golden brown and just barely done (the fish should still be translucent in the center), about 6 minutes for a 1-inch thick fillet.  Serve the salmon with the sauce alongside.

 

Serves 4

 

Recipe from:

Fish & Shellfish, Food & Wine Books, p. 89.



    

The King of Clams

     Within the past decade or so a new industry has begun in the Pacific Northwest in general and the Puget Sound in particular.  It has been estimated to generate $80 million annually, although the farm raised and wild marine bivalve mollusk is not produced for the U.S. market.  But it is highly prized all across the Pacific Rim and is delivered live to retailers there for local consumption.  In fact, this Asian delicacy can cost from $200 to $300 apiece.

 

     What is it, you ask?  It is the geoduck, the largest burrowing clam in the world.  Pronounced GOO-y-duck, it is neither gooey, or a duck.  It is a saltwater clam that has a lifespan that can be over 150 years.  Marketed as the Elephant Trunk Clam, or the King Clam, its name is a mispronunciation of the Native American term, gweduc, which means to dig deep.  And it is aptly named because geoducks live in the sandy mud of lower intertidal and subtidal zones, most often between 10 and 80 feet below the mean tidal mark.  It is estimated that over 100 million adult geoducks call the sediment of the Puget Sound home.  And that may be a conservative estimate, given that in the course of their long life a female can produce up to 5 billion eggs.  They have an exceptionally long siphon that can extend over 3 feet and through that siphon they feed on phytoplankton, single celled marine algae and expel waste.  It is that long meaty siphon that is prized by many for its savory flavor and crunchy texture.  Most are between 1-3 pounds in weight, but some claim to have harvested them at an amazing 10-15 pounds.

     Not surprisingly, it is considered to be an aphrodisiac due to its obvious phallic shape.  But there is actually some truth to that belief.  Studies verified that the geoduck is rich in amino acids that can trigger increased levels of sex hormones.  They also contain a high zinc content that aids in the production of testosterone.

     While it was not on any menu that I could find stateside, apparently in China it is chopped and eaten fondue style, cooked in hot oil on a skewer.  Koreans prefer to eat it raw with spicy chili sauce, sauteed, or in soups or stews.  And in Japan it is prepared as raw sashimi, dipped in soy sauce and wasabi.  I asked around in my culinary adventures out on the San Juan Islands and most people were at a loss on how to prepare it.  Some suggested that it could be cut into sections, then pounded into a palliard to form a cutlet of sorts, then breaded and fried.  I don't think I would have ordered it even if I could have found in on the menu.

 

 

     Oh yes, and one more thing about the geoduck.  It is the official mascot of The Evergreen State College in Olympia, Washington.  Their motto is omnia extares, which means, "Let it all hang out."



An Unfortuitous Happenstance

     Friday Harbor on San Juan Island is not a large town.  But it is a tourist town with over a dozen different restaurants.  And being on an island, as you might expect, seafood is on just about every menu regardless of the cuisine.

     So one evening I decided to go Italian at a place that I thought would be perfect.  After all, what could go wrong at a place named Vinny's?  Things did not begin well when I walked in the door and looking at the nearly empty place was asked if I had a reservation.  Saying no, I was promptly placed at a table by the broom closet, staring out at a shiny corrugated steel wall of a warehouse that was reflecting the afternoon sun.

     Seafood did predominate the menu and I ordered my entree, the grilled Alaskan Halibut.  But when it was delivered to my table it was disappointingly apparent that the fish had never seen a grill and had been microwaved and positioned on some limp pasta.  No doubt the grill marks were synthetically imposed as the fish was processed at some distant whole sale market.

     It was a very unfortunate meal, indeed!

A Fortuitous Happenstance

     Quite by chance I came to enjoy a meal that I hadn't expected.  Taking the ferry to Orcas Island  I was looking forward to lunch at Cafe Olga, highly recommended by several locals.  But I was greeted there by crime scene tape cordoning off the parking lot.  Apparently the place had been torched just a few days earlier.

     So I drove on to the Buck Bay Shellfish Farm hoping to learn about their family owned operation.  From all that I had researched I understood that they were a market only industry, selling oysters, clams and crabs to both commercial and individual customers.  But I was eager to learn about their business, so I stopped by and was warmly greeted by the person in charge.  She told me how they cultured their product and harvested them at low tide in the bay just on the other side of the road.

 

     Then quite unexpectedly she asked if I would like to sample some of their product.  I must admit that I am not a fan of raw oysters, but was willing to give it a try since they were only $1 a piece.  She agreed to shuck the first one for me to show me how and that I would be responsible to take on the rest by myself. 

 

     For the next hour I dined at a picnic table by their driveway with the lid of a plastic bucket as my serving tray and had a wonderful meal.  The Pacific oysters were cold and sweet and went down easily with a squeeze of lime.  After the first half dozen were gone I was offered more, to which I glady agreed.  It was the highlight of my day!



Hop Crop

     The hop plant grows well in Washington.  So well that 75% of the total United States hop acreage is in the state.  It is a floral vine closely related to cannabis which accounts for the term hophead, referring not to someone who smokes weed, but to an aficionado of an aggressively hopped beer.

     From the early days of agriculture until around 800 AD, hopless beer was a sweet, syrupy concoction prone to spoilage.  That was until an enterprising brewer discovered that hops  added during the brewing process not only acted as a preservative, but also provided a refreshing balance to the sweetness of the malt.  From that point on, most beer contained some hops.

     Fast forward to the 18th Century, when Britain was expanding its presence in India.  The thirsty Brits were disappointed to find that their beloved pale ale arriving from home had spoiled during the long sea voyage.  So brewers in England responded by crafting beers with more hops to help preserve the brew.  And thus the birth of the hoppier India Pale Ale!

Not on the menu

     As I mentioned yesterday, in the Pacific Northwest Salmon appears on nearly every restaurant menu.  It can be prepared in any number of methods for breakfast, lunch or dinner.  Salmon hash, salmon salad, and grilled salmon are always artfully prepared and enthusiastically consumed.

     There is one salmon dish, however, that you won't find on any menu in any restaurant.  But it has been eaten and enjoyed by locals for hundreds of years.  The food that I am referring to is something called stinkheads.  It is the fermented fish heads of salmon.  Before refrigeration or canning fermenting fish was a common practice among the residents of the Pacific Northwest, the Native Americans in particular.  The process is simple:

1. Chop off the head of a King Salmon
2. Wrap it in grass
3. Bury it in a mossy pit for 4-6 weeks
4. Dig it up and eat

     If you can get past the putrid smell of the rotting flesh it is quite a memorable meal.  The fermentation makes the bones so soft you can chew them right along with the meat!



Going Fishing

     As I continued to conduct my culinary research in the Pacific Northwest I asked a tourist how he would describe the region's cuisine.  He replied, with some, resignation, "Salmon, salmon, salmon."  By estimation his meals while on vacation were monolithic, and limited to a single fish.  While I disagree with his observation I must also add that salmon is a significant and healthy part of the diet for resident and visitor alike. 

     Salmon has long been at the heart of the culture & livelihood of Pacific coastal dwellers.  Related to trout, salmon are carnivorous, meat eaters.  They are of the family Salmonidae and their name is derived from the Latin term meaning "to leap."  They are also anadromous, that is born in fresh water then migrate to the ocean before returning to fresh water to reproduce.  Studies have concluded that salmon will return to the exact spot where they were born to spawn. While my research focused on the Pacific variety, they are not limited to that geography.  They are found around the globe: in the Atlantic, in Scotland, Russia and even Tasmania.  And here's an interesting factoid-99% of Atlantic salmon are farm raised while over 80% of Pacific salmon are caught wild.

     To the casual diner looking at a restaurant menu and seeing salmon on the menu it would appear that there is little choice.  But nothing could be further from the truth.  With 5 distinctive salmon species available there is a wide variety of taste and texture to consider.  So here is a brief primer on the possibilities for dinner!

 

 

Chinook-also known as King Salmon it can exceed 100 pounds in weight, hence the nick name.  It has the highest fat (Omega-3) content and is considered by many to be the best tasting.  It's flesh color can range from white to deep red.

Sockeye-Its bright red-orange flesh has earned it the nickname Red Salmon.  It has a deep, rich flavor and is said to taste the most like what people expect salmon to taste.

Coho-Sometimes referred to as Silver Salmon, it has a more delicate texture and a lighter flavor.

Pink-This species is the most common and is very light colored, lacking in the bold flavors of other salmon.  It also is low in the highly sought after beneficial fat content.  While it can be served fresh, it is most often canned, frozen or smoked.

Chum-This is the smallest of the salmon species averaging only 8 pounds.  The flesh is pale to medium colored and is lower in fat content.  It is primarily canned or sold frozen to foreign markets.

     The next time you find salmon on the menu, be sure to ask which kind you are being served, but ask tastefully!
    



A Day at the Market

     According to the U. S. Department of Agriculture, between 2011 and 2012 the increase in the number of farmers' markets was just a fraction less than 10%.  And supporting that number is the increase from less than 1,800 to nearly 8,000 Farmers' Markets around the country according to the USDA's national directory from their first report in 2004.

 



     And the Saturday farmers' market in Friday Harbor on San Juan Island was no exception.  It opened up a bit later than some, since the producers had to catch a ferry in some case from another nearby island.  But local goods were proudly on display at 10 am at the brickworks.

 

 



     Thirsty Goose Farm had lots of beautiful heirloom tomatoes on sale, along side some kale and other vegetables grown just a few miles away.  And there were some very nice looking oysters available as well, replete with a chart describing each variety.  And if you were looking for a late breakfast or early lunch there were some tasty choices, including a portable pizza oven driven to the market! 



The Accidental Farmer

     As Stephen Robins was considering his retirement he was introduced to the San Juan Islands off the coast of Washington State.  After a trip over to the land beyond Friday Harbor he initially purchased a small parcel, 10 acres, with the intention of making it self sustaining.  But he didn't want to compete with other agrarians who were raising crops for a living.  And after considerable research he decided to grow fields of lavender.  It's a perennial that doesn't need expensive fertilizer, doesn't need to be irrigated and is harvested only once a year, but on a rotating basis.

     His research indicated that of all the flowers in the garden lavender is perhaps the oldest, having been documented for over 2,500 years.  Its ability to soothe, to heal and to rejuvenate with the release of its remarkable aromatic properties has earned it high regard by aromatherapists, herbalists and even traditional medical professionals.

     Lavender is one of only a few select herbs that can be employed to flavor the entire food spectrum, from savory to sweet.  Consider its application with such diverse foods as lamb, custards, chocolate and olive oil.  But culinary lavender differs from the scented lavender that fills sachets.  Culinary grade lavender, while coming from the same plant, is harvested early in the flowering season when only a precious few of the flowers have actually opened up on the flowerhead.  First harvest lavender has not yet released a bitter essential oil that, while providing a characteristic aroma, is not suitable for culinary purposes.

 



     It is breath taking to round the back country road on San Juan Island and come across fields of lavender in bloom.  Stephen Robins, the accidental farmer, now cultivates his lavender at Pelindaba Farms and is very successful at it, too.  I happened upon their weekend Lavender Festival and joined the crowds to learn more about this ancient herb.  It was an enlightening and tasteful afternoon as I discovered the myriad of applications from lavender.  Everything from soaps, oils, creams, perfume were available for sale at the gatehouse farm store.  Lavender salt and pepper and vinegar were also in stock as was lavender infused olive oil, even distilled lavender gin!!!