Friday, June 3, 2016

Beer Can Chicken Debunked

     Yesterday I introduced you to Meathead Goldwyn.  Now while his first name is dubious, he does claim to know something about grilling meat.  Here are his 5 facts about beer-can chicken.

1. Beer can chicken is basically roast chicken
Goldwyn says the #1 reason people love beer-can chicken is because it is basically roast chicken.  And roast chicken is delicious.  But according to him, roasting a chicken vertically on a half empty can of beer isn't the best way to cook chicken on a grill.

2. The beer never touches your chicken
Goldwyn disagrees with the theory that the beer in the can percolates when heated on the grill and infuses the bird with lager-flavored steam.  Here's what he has to say:
     
     "It doesn't work the way you think it does.  You take the beer can and stick it up the butt of the chicken.  What happens?  The beer cannot penetrate the sides of the metal can.  That metal can goes way up into the body of the chicken, so most of the chicken is protected from the beer by the can.  If the water could evaporate, if the beer could evaporate, it might come into contact with the chicken's shoulders, and that's all."

3. No steam means no extra juiciness
It's a matter of degree...Fahrenheit.  Cold beer in a cold chicken renders it nearly impossible to convert the liquid beer into steam that would have an effect on the flavor.  Even if the chicken is cooked to an internal temperature of 160F, it doesn't matter.  Beer doesn't boil until 212F.  The beer isn't going to get any hotter than the chicken.  Goldwyn boldly states, "It's a physical impossibility."

4. You might end up with dry, overcooked meat
The beer can inside the chicken's cavity isn't just ineffective --- it can actually make your chicken taste worse.  "You can run the risk of overcooking when there's no heat entering the cavity...If you take that beer can out and cook the chicken whole, warm air can get into the cavity and cook the chicken from two sides."

5. Beer-can chicken isn't bad, it's just not the best
The fact is, beer-can chicken does taste good.  It's just not the best method to cook juicy chicken on the grill.  It's a good way to cook chicken, but it's not a great way.  The author recommends breaking the bird into the sum of its parts, or spatchcocking (butterflying) it.  Another method used in Italian kitchens is to cook it al mattone, that is, under a brick.  The goal is to have a deep color on the interior side of the bird as well as the outside.  That develops more flavor.  And it cooks faster, losing less moisture and making for a better and tastier bird.

The final take-away from the author:  icy-cold cans of beer are best used for ...drinking.


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