The Rivah

     When you hear someone from Virginia say "The Rivah" they are probably referring to the Rappahannock, sometimes nicknamed The Rapp.  The Algonquin Indians first named it as the place where the tide ebbs and flows and it has been and continues to be the source of livelihood for countless watermen for over two centuries.  The river flows for 86 miles down from the headwaters at Chester Gap eventually emptying into the Chesapeake Bay.  It's in its tidal estuaries that fish, oysters and crabs are caught and subsequently brought to market.

     It's also the place where in 1899 twenty-four year old James Croxton, Jr. purchased 5 acres of river bottom near Butylo, hoping to supplement his meager farm income by raising and selling oysters.   Unknowingly he initiated a family tradition that continues today, carried on by his great-grandsons Travis and Ryan.  Together they own and operate the Rappahannock Oyster Company in Topping.  They are rising to the challenge of reviving the recognition and appreciation of Virginia oysters.  Their goal is simple:  To make bay oysters consistently available and in so doing to permit consumers to once again enjoy what they insist are the best tasting oysters in the world.

     For centuries the bay oysters were unchallenged for their flavor.  But by the 1970s many species had all but disappeared and oyster populations dropped to only 1% of what they were at the turn of the century.  Using modern aquaculture methods the cousins have re-introduced some old favorites including the Rappahannock River Oyster.  They are also successfully raising other varieties like Olde Salts, Stingrays and a seasonal favorite, the Witch Duck.
 

     Travis & Ryan grow their oysters in open waters, raised in cages so that when they are harvested they do not destroy the fragile river bottom.  As they grow, salt and temperature levels are carefully monitored and slow growers are culled out, as are misshapen shells.  

     I had the chance to meet with Travis recently on the front porch of the tasting room, Merrior, down narrow Locklies Road in Topping.  He is understated about his success, as is the facility that processes and ships oysters to their other restaurants in Richmond and Washington, DC and to locations throughout the United States.  I also happily slurped up a half dozen oysters as we talked.  And without a doubt, they are the best.