Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Past its Prime

    


     The sign outside says it all.  A restaurant that's been serving Bostonians and tourists since 1827.  It was originally owned by John Durgin and Eldridge Park and was located near Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market.  Serving up traditional New England-style fare in huge portions at long communal tables with checkered tablecloths, it was a popular, not to miss, venue when visiting Beantown.
 
 
     Unfortunately, the time honored restaurant has changed ownership numerous times, most recently being purchased by the Ark Restaurant Company, a large corporate entity.  No longer time honored, it has become time worn.  Known over the years for its surly, brassy "in your face" waitstaff, the kitsch of the place has disappeared.  And it shows.  My waitress didn't seem interested in providing any service, rude or otherwise.  She rather preferred to just stand by the open kitchen and lean against the counter.  It seems others have felt like me and on a Thursday night the dining area was more than half empty.



     And from the on-line reviews it appears that others maintain the same dim view of the food, describing it as "mediocre" and "flavorless."  I eagerly ordered the fried fisherman's plate and was disheartened by the way the seafood was smothered in a thick batter that tasted more like the fried dough of a funnel cake rather than a delicate enticement for the ocean's best.  Even the sample of Boston Baked Beans was a disappointment.  It was sadly nothing more than a can of Campbell's baked beans with some brown sugar and a drop of molasses.
 


     Like so many others, I went away feeling somehow that I was born too late to appreciate all that Durgin Park at one time was.

No comments:

Post a Comment